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2008 CRF450R oil change, anyone know the torq settings and mls?

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Hi, I'm gonna be doing an oil change on an 08 450R without a manual so I'm hoping someone knows the torq settings for the oil filter cover, trans drain bolt, engine drain bolt and trans check bolt. I'm also wondering how much oil to put in the trans side and the engine side.

TIA for the help!

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don't use a torque wrench on those...you can still strip them if your torque wrench is not accurate. I usually use my small ratchet with my 10mm/12mm socket and hold the wrench opposite the handle (near the switch) and just twist with my wrist until snug. I've never had one work loose or leak.

My 2005 is 600ml transmission, Engine: 690ml with oil & filter change, 660ml w/o filter change. The 2008 should be the same.

Edited by 450xDaD

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Thanks a bunch!, anyone elses comments are welcome too!

I use a torq wrench that does 25-200 in lbs or 2-20 ft. lbs accurate to +-4%. I think it should be accurate enough for those bolts but I'll give it a try with a small ratchet.

I also need to tighten the chain, should I tighten it to 1 in of slack on a stand?

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when changing oil i just tighten the bolts snug so i know nothing will strip.. if there is a leak simply tighten the bolt tighten. the chain should have 3 finger slack where you're upper chain running guide is on the swingarm.

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12ft lb is the drain bolts i think.. BE CAREFUL tightening the trans bolt. It is pretty darn easy to strip the case threads (been there). I now have a hole drilled in the end of the bolt to safety wire it to hold it after carefully tightening. This way i resist overtourquing for fear of it coming out..

A loose chain is BETTER than a tight chain. 1" ? that sounds pretty tight. 1" is about what a street bike calls for wiht 1/2 the travel and no chain rollers. Edit: actually the manual calls for 1.0 to 1.4" but i would go with that higher amount.

Edited by MELK-MAN

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Don't CHEAP OUT like a lot of people do .... put new crush washers on EVERY TIME.

The cases are next to impossible to strip if you use a new crush washed each time. I have no idea why people reuse them ... at least no "justifiable reason":banana:

What happens far too often is that people keep reusing the same washers OVER and OVER again. The result is the washer no longer crushes (as its supposed to do ... as it has already been crushed) when torque is applied to the bolt, and you risk stripping the case threads.

You can buy them on EBAY for dirt cheap !! Works out to like 30-40 cents per washer. At this price there is no reason not to change them :ride:

Agree with the concensus above ...don't worry too much about torque specs. I just use a nut driver to apply the tranny and oil bolts ... there is no way your hand will apply enough torque to strip these threads. :lol:

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Duke, If you don't have a manual for your 08' , PM me your email address and I will send you a PDF version. It's a must if you wanna do stuff right..

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Don't CHEAP OUT like a lot of people do .... put new crush washers on EVERY TIME.

The cases are next to impossible to strip if you use a new crush washed each time. I have no idea why people reuse them ... at least no "justifiable reason":banana:

What happens far too often is that people keep reusing the same washers OVER and OVER again. The result is the washer no longer crushes (as its supposed to do ... as it has already been crushed) when torque is applied to the bolt, and you risk stripping the case threads.

You can buy them on EBAY for dirt cheap !! Works out to like 30-40 cents per washer. At this price there is no reason not to change them :ride:

Agree with the concensus above ...don't worry too much about torque specs. I just use a nut driver to apply the tranny and oil bolts ... there is no way your hand will apply enough torque to strip these threads. :lol:

come on man, new crush washers every time will not solve much of anything. Is it a bad idea to use new ones every time? no, go for it but 12ft lb isn't "crushing" that crush washer. The manual calls for new o-rings every time on things like filler plugs and new pistons after 15 hrs too..

To anyone reading, It is EASY TO STRIP THE DRAIN PLUG CASE THREADS and don't let anyone tell you it is not. Getting the trans side cross threaded is not difficult to do either, and if you use a wrachet to start the bolt you won't feel it till it is too late. I will agree with the statement that using a nut driver, it would be difficult to do. That is a very good idea.. :lol:

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I am with Melk-man, I don't change mine out every time usually 4 or 5 oil changes then use a new one, have been doing it this way since 2003 on 5 different crf's and no problems. I flip mine when I do a oil change. I wouldn't worry about torqueing it either, I always just snug mine, same with the oil filter bolts. The nut driver is a good idea if you are worried about over tightening I use a T handle on mine.

Any bolt that goes into the case runs a risk of stripping out if over tightened, so use common sense and don't use popeye arms and you will be all good.

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I use my 20-240in/lb torque wrench, set at 144in/lbs, every time I tighten my oil drain bolts. I have a stack of new aluminum washers that I never use. Never had a problem reusing the old ones.

I run 700cc of oil in both sides.

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Ditto on 700cc in each side. Keeps the kick start idler gear from squealing. Dont use the check bolt on the side of the trans.

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I put a litre in mine but could just say see it inside,cogs wer submerged abit is that ok .

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