Maintenance on WR426F

Hey guys, I recently bought a WR426 and I want to start doing some maintenance on it. I have a few problems though:

A) All the links in the FAQs section are for free manuals that cost money. Am I doing something wrong or did Clymer start charging recently?

:ride: I don't know what I should be doing. Oil change is obvious but I'm not sure how much the bike takes. Oil filter probably needs changing too while I'm in there. Air filter ought to be replaced or cleaned but do they come pre oiled or do I buy oil for them and apply it? The chain seems a bit loose to me but I read that i should be able to put three fingers and the back end of the chain guard. Is the stacked vertically cause that seems a bit loose (but that's where it sits now).

I don't mean to be a hassle but I just got this bike and I want to make it last. I am very new to this whole thing and just need a bit of guidance on how to take care of my newly aquired toy.

Thank you for any help.:thumbsup:

Welcome to the club! As for maintenance, change your oil & oil filter regularly. Clean & oil your air filter. You can buy pre-oiled air filters or just oil up the one you've already got if it's in good shape. The way I check chain tension is different than everyone else's way, but it will be the most accurate but also slightly more time consuming. The way I do it, is to drop the lower shock mounting bolt that attaches to the swingarm linkages. This will free up the swingarm so that you can lift it by hand. Place something under the rear tire that will place your swingarm completely level, or parrallel with the floor. Since your swingarm travels in an arc, this is the tightest position of the chain & sprockets. I then adjust chain tension so it is almost snug, (not quite snug but almost) since this is the absolute tightest the chain will get while traveling thru it's arc. I leave just a touch more slack if I'm going to be dealing with mud since this will get on the sprocket teeth and take up just a little bit more clearance. It sounds more complicated then it is. Just make sure to reinstall the shock bolt & tighten to spec and your good to go. Hope this helps. Maniac

dgcars, thanks for the link, unfortunatly it is blocked by the work computer so I'll have to try when I get home.

Thanks Maniac, that makes alot of sense. I'll give that a shot. I'm gonna buy a new air filter so I know it's good. The guy I bought it from seems like he took care of it, but just to be sure I'll start off fresh.

The bike was in decent shape when I got it, plastics have the white lines and some scratches so once I get the bike under me a bit more I'll pick up some new plastics.

Thanks again guys, hopefully it won't be too long till I move from newbie to some one who can give advice out.

Oh one more question, yesterday while riding I stalled the bike trying to do a tight u-turn. When I went to restart it the bike kicked back at me (luckily I had a firm plant on the kick leaver with my boot). I had the hot start pulled and I was holding onto the brake res. rather than the throttle so I know I didn't give it gas. What is the casue of kick back and what problems can this cause if any?

Thank you.

Nature of the beast. A good kick, not a prod, clean thru' the stroke....

Maniac, shouldn't you only have to do that once and then when you put the bike together make a measurement and always tension to there or have you found it's not consistent? I see what you're doing and it's a great way to measure but I'd think once you have done that, you could adjust based on that measurement.

OP, your dealer will also have the correct info on how much oil you need (as well as it being imprinted on the engine case by the oil filler) when you pickup your filter. I buy the Ready Filters that come pre-oiled and just change them every few rides. For $10 it's cheap and easier to do it that way. If you ride a lot, then get an air filter oiling kit like No-toil.


Is it really posted there? Talk about convienience. I'll get the pre-oiled filter, seems easy enough. Also that makes sense that after you get the proper measurment to just adjust accordingly from there rather then dealing with the suspension.

Thanks guys, you're a wealth of information.

Shouldn't your bike have a decompression lever? If you use this when you start it, it should kick back less.

It does have one. I use it everytime I go to start the thing. Perhaps I didn't bring the piston to TDC. I'm not sure. out of the 50 times I started the bike this is the first time it happend. I'm just currious if that occurance can lead to any problems ya know? I feel like the back pressure that I assume is created can't be all that good for the bike. Either way the bike runs like a champ and I want to keep it that way. I've barely even touched the speed potential of the bike, I don't think I've even left 3rd but one time yet (this is mostly due to lack of space and partially because the bike still scares me a bit).

Yeah, the bikes will do that. Especially if you give them gas while kicking.

miweber929, As for the way I adjust my chain tension, yes, you should only have to do this once and then just measure from there if you want. But personally, I can do the whole operation in under 5 minutes so it's a non-issue to me. I just like knowing for sure my chain tension is perfect, but that's just me.

Oh, and one more thing! Don't trust those marks scribed into the axle blocks. I found one of mine (Right side) to be off by 15mm!!! This is H U G E ! ! ! My bike was handling like crap, as the rear wheel was trying to go right the whole time! The best way to check this is to measure from the swingarm pivot to the rear axle on each side. If your measurements are equal, then your good to go. I hope this helps, and doesn't confuse anyone. Maniac

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