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Surging and draging feeling after running good for 11 years ?

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2000 DRZ400Y (kicker model) bought new Basically an E model..

Full Yosh pipe , running the Medium insert ...

stock engine.

Don't recall what jetting , its been sooo long since I set it up I haven't touched it in years. Aftermarket fuel mixture screw ....

It has run good for all these years ..

I have only had to change a valve shim twice in 11 years.....

Now I'm noticing a surging or hesitation at low steady throttle.

Last week at the Big Bear Run it felt like the brake was dragging.

It seems like it ran a little hot too .

I had to shift more and keep it up in the revs.

Mind you. I ride up there allot so I can tell the difference between altitude and just not running right..

I don't even remember how to adjust the carb its been so long.

Could it be that simple as adjusting the carb?

After all this time could it come out of adjustment?

Could it be silencer packing?

Or valve adjustment?

Or junk in the carb?

Is it weird or normal?

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It has been feeling this way for a few months.

It just bugged me more this last ride.

And it has been harder to start and won't idle till its warm.

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Ended up being valve adjustment after all.

Once the valves start moving in respect to clearance ,it usually means they are close to replacement time...

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2000 DRZ400Y (kicker model) bought new Basically an E model..

Full Yosh pipe , running the Medium insert ...

stock engine.

Don't recall what jetting , its been sooo long since I set it up I haven't touched it in years. Aftermarket fuel mixture screw ....

It has run good for all these years ..

I have only had to change a valve shim twice in 11 years.....

Now I'm noticing a surging or hesitation at low steady throttle.

Last week at the Big Bear Run it felt like the brake was dragging.

It seems like it ran a little hot too .

I had to shift more and keep it up in the revs.

Mind you. I ride up there allot so I can tell the difference between altitude and just not running right..

I don't even remember how to adjust the carb its been so long.

Could it be that simple as adjusting the carb?

After all this time could it come out of adjustment?

Could it be silencer packing?

Or valve adjustment?

Or junk in the carb?

Is it weird or normal?

My 2000 S model did the same thing (Bought new in may '00). Used for general duty dual sporting, including lots of trail riding. I went thru all the usual suspects, but ended up with a new piston kit and cam chain. If you do a compression check, I'll bet it reads about 50 or 60 psi, instead of 120 or so like it should.

Mine had 40 psi when it finally quit running.

RB

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My 2000 S model did the same thing (Bought new in may '00). Used for general duty dual sporting, including lots of trail riding. I went thru all the usual suspects, but ended up with a new piston kit and cam chain. If you do a compression check, I'll bet it reads about 50 or 60 psi, instead of 120 or so like it should.

Mine had 40 psi when it finally quit running.

RB

i don't believe it will run at less than 70-75psi.

autodecomp was disabled for your checks ?

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i don't believe it will run at less than 70-75psi.

autodecomp was disabled for your checks ?

According to my Clymer shop manual, a E should have 145 PSI and a S should have 138 PSI. Just remove the plug and ground it good to pevent damage to CDI.

Insert compression gauge, hold throttle wide open and crank engine a 1/2 dozen times with compression release activated .(IE: just ignore the compression release) A 10 year old engine is not going to be perfect, that's why I said it ought to read 120 or so, in order to rule out compression related problems.

If the engine makes higher compression than the specified amount, then the compression release is probably not working properly. But that's not the op's problem.

If you think about it, the auto compression release just reduces the compression enough to aid starting, but the bike still needs to have enough compression to start and run properly.

In my case, I found the compression rings had collapsed , but the cylinder was fine. I also cleaned the head up best i could, and blocked it up level. Then filled th combustion chamber with ATF and let it sit till I was ready to re install it. If fluid had leaked pass any of the valves, then a valve job would've been required, but the valves did not require service.

It's been over 1500 miles since the top end job and bike is running great.

I'm not suggesting the OP tear his bike apart, just that he do a compression check to either eliminate or confirm that compression is the problem.

RB

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Hey I'm back.

Boy this DRZ is a tired girl..... NOW after 13 years of MX , Des , Enduro and tons of Dualsport miles.

Kinda went through the same thing. Was running poorly hard to start old gas blah blah blah.

Went to check valves and they were out again... now rightside intake shim is at 2.40 mm ... ugh . comp check is showing 90 psi ....

ad to that....

Suspension previously setup for Des racing by RG3 needs service .

The frame which cracked near the head-tube and was welded has shown signs of the crack returning....

Looks like I'm looking at a top end , new piston , rings & cam chain , Suspension service , and frame repair or replace.

I had the choice last year to rebuild this bike or Get a newer bike.

I ended up getting an 05 RMZ450.

The RMZ is awesome but nothing will ever replace this DRZ.

I want to keep it running for dualsporting for now and the RMZ can fill in the rest..

Cash is nonexistent at the moment (wife & kids) so the search for the most economical way to revive the DRZ begins........ I would love to do a full teardown and rebuild it from the ground up....

Anyway I cannot recall What the popular jetting was/is for an E/Y model with full Yosh pipe (middle screen)??

I did it when Eddie Sisneros was still Burned ....lol , I used to be MoToHead or something back in 2000

Its jetted to whatever that was , but I have messed with the Fuel screw and don't remember what the fuel screw setting should be for this pipe and jetting?????

Where's the best "affordable" place to get the head work done??

Will a new piston , rings , camchain and gaskets be all I need?? Cylinder should be coated right ? requiring no service??

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Have a look on E bay for a 94mm cylinder works kit , I paid $ 375 + shipping for my last kit .

Make sure the kit has the Vertex piston ... Not Namura

When all is added up with recoating, your almost at a big bore kit just add cam chain. As far as head work your old friend Burned is at Epic Motorsports, give him a call.

Edited by em8691

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