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To torque or not to torque that is that question.

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So I am really serious about maintenance. I am not a mechanic but I am learning. I have a couple of torque wrenches, one is good from 20 to 100 ft lbs, the other is this one...good for 20 to 250 inch lbs..

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I have been using the smaller one to torque down the oil drain bolt. The torque value on this bolt is 8.5 ft lbs or 102 inch lbs. I usually set the wrench to 100 inch lbs and so far have had no problems. The thing is, I read on here somewhere, that you shouldnt torque the drain bolt as it is wet as opposed to a dry bolt. It being wet, would affect the torque value. What are your thoughts on this? Does a bolt being wet really affect how you should tighten it?

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As as a rule of thumb I was taught to reduce the torque value on a lubricated or wet bolt by forty percent. I have not applied that to my motorcycle though because I figured that Yamaha factored that into their torque values. I think that rule has more relevance in machining when you create your own threads and bolts and need to decide on your own torque values.

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As as a rule of thumb I was taught to reduce the torque value on a lubricated or wet bolt by forty percent. I have not applied that to my motorcycle though because I figured that Yamaha factored that into their torque values. I think that rule has more relevance in machining when you create your own threads and bolts and need to decide on your own torque values.

40%? Dang. I wouldnt have thought to reduce it that much.

So do you use a torque wrench on your drain bolts, or just tighten by feel?

Speaking of tightening a bolt by feel. Is it correct to finger tighten then a quarter turn?

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Torque that shit. Read my post called "OIL DRAIN PLUG FELL OUT!"

I did read it. I think I even told you to torque it. But that was when I got to thinking, and searching, and read the post about wet bolts. GREAT! Now I have something else to OCD over. :thumbsup:

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Use a torque 20-100 wrench structural parts only. Never on anything else.

A drain bolt is not structural.

Tank shrouds are not structural.

Oil filter cover bolts are not structural.

Even Clutch spring retainer bolts are not structural.

If you want to torque things that have low rating (3.5lbs), then you need a 1lb - 20llb torque wrench.

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Use a torque 20-100 wrench structural parts only. Never on anything else.

A drain bolt is not structural.

Tank shrouds are not structural.

Oil filter cover bolts are not structural.

Even Clutch spring retainer bolts are not structural.

If you want to torque things that have low rating (3.5lbs), then you need a 1lb - 20llb torque wrench.

Yes. That is what the smaller torque wrench is for. It is good for 1.6 to 20 ft lbs.

It is marked in inch lbs but all you have to do is convert to ft lbs.

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I just tighten by feel.

Better yet, I bought a moose magnetic drain plug with a complimentary wire tie hole drilled through the head.

Now I can safety wire my bolt to the case and never have to worry about it going anywhere.

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Any time I work on my bike, there's a good chance my 25-250in/lb wrench is coming out of the tool chest.

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Maybe i should get a torque wrench. I just loctite and tighten the crap out of all my bolts.

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Torque. I never used to and learned the hard way. 5pm Friday night before a race I didn't torque. Now I have a 5/8" inch bolt in a Japanese all metric bike. LOL What pain it was finding a copper washer for that bad boy!

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Use a torque 20-100 wrench structural parts only. Never on anything else.

A drain bolt is not structural.

Tank shrouds are not structural.

Oil filter cover bolts are not structural.

Even Clutch spring retainer bolts are not structural.

If you want to torque things that have low rating (3.5lbs), then you need a 1lb - 20llb torque wrench.

The only thing you listed that isn't structural is the tank shrouds.

Leave any of the others off that list and let us know how your engine's structure holds up.:thumbsup:

He does have the lighter in lb torque wrench also.

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