hotcams says NOT to use synthetic oil for break in.

do I need to switch to petroleum oil to break in my new cams? I normally run Motul 5100 15w50.

Never seen the need, never seen a wear difference but using Dino oil vs Synthetic. Though in practice, I suppose most time the motors I build use Dino oil for cam break in, Oil is in the motor about 20-45 min total time though. On just cam installs...... then the cams were run in using the Synthetic oil that was already in the motor.

every single cam manufacturer will tell you to never ever use synthetic for cam break in. Their claims is that If you do, the cam will wear excessively.

every single cam manufacturer will tell you to never ever use synthetic for cam break in. Their claims is that If you do, the cam will wear excessively.

Which of course makes no sense for several reasons, several OEM manufactures motorcycle, auto, truck, equipment, use nothing but Syn oil for break in to normal service intervals.

And Syn oil lubricates as well or better in all cases then Dino oil.. so causing "extra wear" makes no sense.

However, hey it's now an oil thread, Ask 10 people, you'll get 12 different answers.

Cam newb here, so take this with a grain of salt.

does it have something to do with the ZDDP levels in synthetic oils?

do the bikes have flat tappet cams?

if you are using the correct oil to begin with it will have plenty of zinc in the additive package.

if you are using the correct oil to begin with it will have plenty of zinc in the additive package.

so does Motul 5100 have enough zinc or should I use something else for break in?

it will be fine on your current oil.

I bet it's because a new cam usually has to break in with an old bucket/tappet that has worn in with the original cam. Theoretically a Petro oil will let the pieces "wear" into each other for a better contact area. Fear and superstition says synthetics will let the high spots bear the load on a smaller area and in turn wear in improperly during initial run in. I would always recommend new buckets with a new cam anyway. Cheap insurance and piece of mind.

Which of course makes no sense for several reasons, several OEM manufactures motorcycle, auto, truck, equipment, use nothing but Syn oil for break in to normal service intervals.

And Syn oil lubricates as well or better in all cases then Dino oil.. so causing "extra wear" makes no sense.

perhaps aftermarket hardening isnt nearly as good as oem?

and being too slippery is actually a problem for some items. I had to replace all the syncros on a transmission as the gear oil i was using didnt have enough friction and as a result the syncros spun too freely and wore excessively

:thumbsup:

I guess my question would be, why not do what the manufacturer specifies if you have a worry. Then you have standing to complain if you have an issue. I run full synthetic in my KTMs (Super Duke and RC8R) and I run it in my mini-bikes. The DR-Z will get good old Suzuki oil, and I bet all will be well. As long as you run oil that meets the manufacturers specs, you can't go wrong.

I guess my question would be, why not do what the manufacturer specifies if you have a worry. Then you have standing to complain if you have an issue. I run full synthetic in my KTMs (Super Duke and RC8R) and I run it in my mini-bikes. The DR-Z will get good old Suzuki oil, and I bet all will be well. As long as you run oil that meets the manufacturers specs, you can't go wrong.

Spend some time reading threads here on what makes these motors live, what has been traced to watching them die, listen to those that have had several motors to several motors a month apart.. and KNOW what is going on inside the motor,, have seen the modes of failure. Then after reading that for your self, decide if "it's just a bunch of internet guys, what do they know" and happly run what you want. :smirk:

No one here is getting paid to hawk one brand or type of anything over another... The responses you read, and recommendations you hear are based on experiences...Not what a lawyer and accountant approved for release in the OEM owners manual.

"As long as you run oil that meets the manufacturers specs, you can't go wrong" Boy, there is an invitation for argument if I ever saw one.

I hear you, I read quite a bit on here, but we are talking about breaking in a cam per manufacturers instructions. I was just saying why not do it as they specify. I think the Hot Cams break in was pretty easy as I recall, not disrespecting anyone, but I don't see that you could harm your engine following their procedure. That does not mean that it is the only way or even the best way. I was just giving my opinion, not trying to stir the pot. Of course, I only have played with one DR-Z, so I have limited experience. I have a second one and I am open to new ideas. As a matter of fact, the guy that has my old one wants to swap the stage 2 cams in it, for a set of stage 1 cams so he can get the decomp lever back. So that is why I was interested in the thread, as I have 2 cam swaps in my near future, and I did the last one 4 or 5 yrs ago. Thanks for your input sir.

The issue is breaking in a used tappet with a new cam. More specifically the Hot Cams instructions were written to cover all of thier cams. Break in of a chrome rocker arm with a chilled cast cam can be touchy - XR400. The instructions were written as a general guidline.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now