Questions before i attempt FCR, MRD and MCCT Installation

Gday everyone,

I have just received my Thumpertalk order containing my FCR39mm kit, woo!! :thumbsup:

I already have a MCCT, Merge APS, 14 and 13 tooth front sprockets (experimenting with gearing a little), MRD/SSW full exhaust system and some unibiker radiator guards ready to go on as well!

But i have a few questions.

I still have the airbox unaltered, I do need to cut the 3x3 hole or else the jetting that is included with my FCR kit won't work correctly right?

And just to confirm, it is a 3inch by 3inch hole, already including the existing hole right?

Just out of curiosity will the bike really run that bad if i don't cut the hole?

Also has anybody installed the Merge APS spring on there FCR? It looks a bit fiddley and the instructions are not to good (im no mechanic) .

And when changing out the front sprocket, any special tools required?

MCCT, looks as simple as unscrew the auto one and screw in the manual one, adjust and leave it alone? Seems so simple on youtube!

Just a little nervous about tearing into all this, i mean my bike only has 300km's on it ( bought it brand new), and just wondering if anybody has some pointers or things they found difficult so i know not to make the same mistakes...

what model is your drz?

the aussie "E" already has a 3x3

no special tools required for the sprocket. big shifter/spanner for the nut and screw driver for the lock washer, oh and pliers for removing the chain.

take your time with the installs, if you dont know a lot it is a perfect oppurtunity to learn

:thumbsup:

Hey man, its a 2011 DRZ400SM!

Just a little nervous about putting all this stuff on, i have heard once i do all of it...my warranty goes out the window!

one thing that i needed was about a 3 foot pipe to get the sprocket off. i do not have a breaker bar so i slid it over the wrenches handle so i could have a little more leverage. u will probably also need someone to put some pressure on that back break so the wheel just doesnt spin. there is a good video on u tube for the 3x3

i followed this just for my bikes correct set up and it came out nice i think. once u have decided on the sprocket u want u should do the counter shaft lock tight fix that is described in the facs section. sounds like it could save a lot of trouble and a break down for less than a dollars worth of lock tight.
Gday everyone,

I have just received my Thumpertalk order containing my FCR39mm kit, woo!! :ride:

I already have a MCCT, Merge APS, 14 and 13 tooth front sprockets (experimenting with gearing a little), MRD/SSW full exhaust system and some unibiker radiator guards ready to go on as well!

But i have a few questions.

I still have the airbox unaltered, I do need to cut the 3x3 hole or else the jetting that is included with my FCR kit won't work correctly right?

And just to confirm, it is a 3inch by 3inch hole, already including the existing hole right?

Just out of curiosity will the bike really run that bad if i don't cut the hole?

Also has anybody installed the Merge APS spring on there FCR? It looks a bit fiddley and the instructions are not to good (im no mechanic) .

And when changing out the front sprocket, any special tools required?

MCCT, looks as simple as unscrew the auto one and screw in the manual one, adjust and leave it alone? Seems so simple on youtube!

Just a little nervous about tearing into all this, i mean my bike only has 300km's on it ( bought it brand new), and just wondering if anybody has some pointers or things they found difficult so i know not to make the same mistakes...

Moty , you dont have to cut the 3x3 , but as you correctly guessed , it is set up for the 3x3 and the pipe . I didnt even do any of the mods to the carb , I`ve had no bogging in 3 years , so no need so far .

I havent changed any front sprockets , only a rear , but leaving it in gear always helps . I have read a lot of people saying to loctite it back on as they do come loose .

The MCT is as simple as the youtube vid . Put the motor at TDC undo the 2 bolts , swap it out and do up the bolts . Then do up the main adjuster by hand to take up some of the slack and absolutely dont turn over the motor untill the slack is taken up on the adjuster or you may jump some teeth on the cams . Then start the bike and adjust untill the rocks in a can sound goes away , lock it down and it is all done .

Rule of thumb here is to just take your time and dont rush it . I have read also the pipe can be a tight fit aswell , just remember if you have problems someone else probably has done the same thing , so do some reading or ask questions :thumbsup: , greg

Thanks for the reply hinksy,

I was worried about the MCT, as i have heard it is ment to be in TDC, and from what i have read it needs to be on the compression stroke, and the cams at 10 and 2. Now the hell do i know if they are 10 and 2 if i DONT take off the valve cover?

And the loctite fix people are refering too is this one right... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=625998

what exactly do i put loctite on? Just the bit where the sprocket goes on right? If everyone says its such a bitch to get off why would you put more on? I have read the FAQ but most of it goes over my head as i am not that mechanically inclined.

Hmmm so the APS is not necessary..? only if the bike bogs i should put it on? or is it worth just putting it on and being done with it? I have read some people have had to tune there APS as well, will my tuning be reset if i swap out the spring?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, I just don't want to wreck my new bike...

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