What torque should my spokes be at? I put new spokes on both rims.
Stock rims? 17" or 18/21"?
excel rims. Excel spokes on front 21" and oem spokes on rear 18".
You go by your ear. I've never used a torque wrench to lace a wheel.
Once you set the correct offset, true the wheel and then tighten the spokes evenly until you get a 'ding' sound when you hit it with the wrench being careful not to untrue the rim.
Once you've achieved this you'll care less if one spoke is undertorqued a little bit.
The man who put the rims and spokes together is a professional mechanic for a race team. He said after the first few rides some of the spokes will come a bit loose. He told me to buy the Excel spoke torque wrench kit and to check the torque after the first few rides.
Sorry if I sounded rude, what I meant was that if you mount the wheel on a truing stand with a dial indicator, you'll notice that each time you tighten one spoke the rim will pull to that side a few thousandths .
So to get the rim back to true you have to tighten the spokes next to it to pull it to the opposite side regardless of if these spokes were already torqued to specs, meaning that you are going to overtorque these spokes anyway.
And you have to do this for all 36 spokes, so honestly after you're done tightening back and forth all the spokes to get them within axial and radial runout tolerances you won't know the actual torque settings of each spoke rendering a spoke torque wrench kind of useless.
I'm not putting down spoke wrenches or mechanincs who use them, just saying that once you true a wheel or two you'll get the hang of it and realize you didn't need one (unless you're racing, in which case I recommend you take your wheels to a professional mechanic ).
Yes you should check the spokes and retighten accordingly on a fresh wheel but you can't do that with just a torque wrench, you have to consider the runout. Re-torquing them evenly doesn't guarantee you a wobble free rim, you need some sort of truing stand, a dial indicator and the axial and radial runout specs for your wheels ( I aim for 0.5mm or 0.02" both radial and axial in lack of the specs) but if you're racing I'd get the specs from your mechanic friend.
And I was wrong, you are aiming for a "ping" not a "ding" sound ha ha, sorry.
Fresh new spokes in a fresh new rim, the threads and nipples lubed with oil, a torque wrench might make sense. After a wheel is used, it is tighten by feel to true the wheel. It is easy to identify loose spokes. With some experience, I can't see the need to purchase a spoke torque wrench. Just my opinion.
yep, spoke torqe wrench only good on new wheels. after a few rides in mud water etc there can be enough crap in there to give false readings on a torque wrench. The "ding" sound is also very difficult to comprehend. Slight changes in sound can be too much to try anfd get right for many. Just use a regular spoke wrench and check each spoke every 15-30 min at first.Just give them a little tweek to make sure there still tight.The loose ones will be obvious. Go by feel and make them all about the same. Dont try to get them perfect, close is good enough. Just make sure they dont get too loose and you will be fine. After a few rides they should not loosen up much at all anymore.
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