Changing BRP fork oil?

I am not very good at doing this sort of stuff. But Ive heard I should change the fork oil, I do not know if the last owner of the bike changed it, but I want to be sure. I also want to put great on the pivot point on the xr.

I have unscrewed the 8 bolts on the forks, removed the front wheel and headlight, the front brake etc.. And loosened the top nut on each fork. But they still do not come out. Is there something I am missing?

Just got opened up the fork and poured the oil into a container. The oil came out really yucky, very dark.. The oil was very very nasty looking. Kinda like snot.

Anyone, should I put a 5w oil in there?

Im guessing since this fork oil change was not done, this bike will need the obvious maintenance to the other brp probs. :)

Just put some fresh Silcoline 5w fork oil in my BRP and it smoothed out the fork a bunch. Not as harsh with no increase in bottoming. I should not have waited so long!

One hint, run the center rod up and down a bunch of times to make sure all the air bleeds out from the rebound valving.

Good Luck! :)

When changing the fork oil, did you use any of the special tools as described on, did you purchase the fork tool (from honda) or did you just use standard tools you had in your shop?

When changing the fork oil, did you use any of the special tools as described on, did you purchase the fork tool (from honda) or did you just use standard tools you had in your shop?

Im not sure I did it right then. I just removed the top thing, and turned the whole fork over and let the oil come out. Isnt that what im sopposed to do? But for that, i just used regular tools.

Is there something else im sopposed to do?


IF you are mechanically comfortable, you can go one step further: un fasten the bolt (number 14 wrench) inside the spring at the top.

Take the spring out, and collapse the fork. WIth all the oil out that is going to come out, you can fill it up again.

Buy a tape measure with metric markings of it.

Now- with the fork collapsed, pour in oil until it reaches 110mm away from the rim of the top of the fork. Use 5 wt. Then put the spring back in, and bolt it all together. Its actually very simple...

There was a post about 4-5 days ago on this forum with links to a good article with pictures detailing how to do all this. Take a look if needed.



Thanks iron dude, I will do that.

Here is a pic of the old oil I took out last night.


Here is a link to a fork oil change I found on the yahoo group for the xr650r.


Im not sure if I should go as far as the guy did. He needed a special tool and took the fork more apart. I did what Irondude said and got the oil out. Do I really need to get that fork tool to complete the job?

The only special tool one needs for the BRP forks is the donut that slams replacement fork seals into place. You can also take your forks to any Honda dealer and they will slam the seals into place while you wait, usually for free. It takes about 15 seconds to do....otherwise no need to buy special tools as per the Honda manual.

While the forks are off you might want to consider re-greasing the steering stem bearings. Its VERY easy to do as well...



If you want to take the cartrige out, you do not NEED the special tools, but they do make the process a little easier.

I found a set of 1/2" drive metric hex (allen) sockets at a local AutoZone store, there was a 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm key for $8. They are cheap tools (the brand is OEM) but how often do you need them! The 14mm is the size you need for the cartrige in the bottom of the fork.

Motion Pro sells the tool to hold the damper rod, it is listed as the XR400/DRZ400 Damping rod holder (the 27mm hex for the DRZ is the same as the BRP). It cost about $37 or so on their web site. This second tool is the one you DO NOT NEED. If you have a high speed air impact rachet (an air butterfly rachet will work too) you can get the cartrige out without the Motion Pro tool.

What you do is load the spring back into the fork tube and put the axle on. I put a rag on the floor, and with the tube upside down compress the tube by pushing down on the axle. Hit the cartrige with the impact gun and it will spin the cartrige out faster than the damper tube can spin because of the spring pressure. I have had ZERO luck doing this trick with hand tools. Intstalling the cartrige back in the tube is done the same way.

I learned this trick from a local shop owner that used to be a RaceTech center before they closed their service department, and they never even had the holding tool! I actually bought the Motion Pro tool because I am too anal about setting the torque on EVERYTHING.

Hope this helps! :)

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