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Front wheel axel installation

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('09 WR250F)

Does it matter what order the the bolts on the front wheel are tightened? I will be using the Motion Pro Fork Alignment Tool to keep the tubes lined up. I believe the book says to tighten the axel bolt first then torque down the Axel pinch bolts. Will this order of tightening pinch the fork legs together making it more difficult to get the lower tubes aligned?

Can you tighten the pinch bolts first and then the axel without hurting anything?

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('09 WR250F)

Does it matter what order the the bolts on the front wheel are tightened? I will be using the Motion Pro Fork Alignment Tool to keep the tubes lined up. I believe the book says to tighten the axel bolt first then torque down the Axel pinch bolts. Will this order of tightening pinch the fork legs together making it more difficult to get the lower tubes aligned?

Can you tighten the pinch bolts first and then the axel without hurting anything?

use a manual matey be easier

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('09 WR250F)

Can you tighten the pinch bolts first and then the axel without hurting anything?

Tighten the axle nut first.

This puts required tension from the head of the axle, the speedometer drive gear, the right side wheel bearing inner race, the bearing spacer, the left side bearing inner race, the left wheel spacer, and the left fork leg.

Without this tension, the bearings (and therefore, the wheel hub) can wiggle around because those parts aren't being squeezed together.

Also, as mentioned above, the excellent Owner's Service Manual that came with the bike when it was new details this stuff step by step.

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I've taken off the front wheel/forks a couple of times. I do it like the manual says.

1. Tighten the axel.

2. take it off the stand, hold the front brake, and give the front wheel a few good bounces.

3. Tighten the pinch bolts. Be sure the axel doesn't slide when you release the brake and go to tighten the bolts.

It really helps if you time the bounces with the suspension rebound, otherwise it's a workout!

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Tighten the axle nut first.

This puts required tension from the head of the axle, the speedometer drive gear, the right side wheel bearing inner race, the bearing spacer, the left side bearing inner race, the left wheel spacer, and the left fork leg.

Without this tension, the bearings (and therefore, the wheel hub) can wiggle around because those parts aren't being squeezed together.

Also, as mentioned above, the excellent Owner's Service Manual that came with the bike when it was new details this stuff step by step.

I have the manual...and followed it. Was just curious what the reason is for the order in tightening things down. What you said makes sense...as usual.

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