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linkage pivot bolt stuck! *pics*

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I have been trying to get this bolt out of my '01 KX250 linkage for 2 days. It is the bolt that attaches the rocker arm to the frame. I can barely hit it with a hammer because of the frame and i can only get something on the bolt at an angle. The bolt spins freely inside of the linkage so the bolt must be seized into the bearings.

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The previous owners obviously never touched any of the suspension parts.

I sprayed almost a whole can of PB blaster and have heated the bolt till it was glowing red with a MAPP torch and it still wont budge not even 1mm.

I am to the point where Im ready to just cut the whole damn rocker arm in half, and buy a new one off ebay. Where the lower shock bearing was looks like it got all mucked up anyway (see pics) The lower shock bearing was non-existent. A bunch of pieces of metal (used to be needles) and half of the outer race just fell out(it was worn all the way through on one side so it was now a half outer race)

lower shock bearing part of linkage:

DSC02967.jpg

Any suggestions or should i just cut this thing off?

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Try heating the linkage not the bolt you might have better luck. You want the bearing and linkage to expand letting the bolt move more freely.

Have you had someone spin the bolt while you hit the other end?

You could try and move the link around while hitting the bolt

Get a bigger hammer

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you need to make a mini press using threaded rod and nuts to force it out , you will need to support the other side so it doesn't bend the tabs on the frame

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The bolt is stuck inside the inner race/spacer. Keep heating and soaking with penetrating oil. Once it moves a little, spray more oil, then hit it back the opposite way to force oil into the spacer.

On my 94 one of the swingarm bearings actually spun inside the swingarm.

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Have someone with an impact on the bolt head side and you hammering on the threaded side. This has worked for me before on the 85's, after soaking and heating.

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Space limitations probably limit the options. But the suggestion to heat the linkage and not the bolt is spot on. Good luck.

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I had a similar problem, if it didn't free up with the PB blaster and a day or two of time then I would get out the sawzall. There's a sleeve that fits over the bolt and they rust together. Cut the bolt and get a new bolt and sleeve.

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I thought heating the bolt would break the corrosive bond with the spacer, i'll try heating the linkage next time. you think it would help to spray freeze spray into the bolt while heating the linkage? there is a hole that goes through the center of the bolt.

i dont have any air tools and i dont even think i could get an impact in there because of the frame.

This is such a PITA!:smashpc:

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I had a similar problem, if it didn't free up with the PB blaster and a day or two of time then I would get out the sawzall. There's a sleeve that fits over the bolt and they rust together. Cut the bolt and get a new bolt and sleeve.

Where do you suggest i cut the bolt? between the linkage and the frame?

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Where do you suggest i cut the bolt? between the linkage and the frame?

Yes, inside each tab. Then you can put the assembly in a vice and work it over. Good luck.

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Use a pen and paper to draw it out.

Hmmm....

Yes, inside each tab. Then you can put the assembly in a vice and work it over. Good luck.

The problem with this is...

If the bearing inner race is against the frame (no spacer as such) you will not be able to cut thru' it.

If there is a spacer...you will need to replace those too.

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With a lack of room like that Use an air hammer, with a long flat ended bit to punch it out, should punch out easy with a good air hammer

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I would try a big c clamp to squeeze it out. Get it tight, apply heat, turn a little more, apply some more heat, etc. until it breaks free. Use a big socket or something on the left end so you're not just squeezing the two bolt ends together.

I'm not sure about heating the linkage vs. the bolt. I think heating the bolt would make it smaller, and heating the linkage would make the hole smaller. I remember putting the linkage in the freezer to expand it before installing the bearings, and warming the bearings up - but I could be wrong.

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I would try a big c clamp to squeeze it out. Get it tight, apply heat, turn a little more, apply some more heat, etc. until it breaks free. Use a big socket or something on the left end so you're not just squeezing the two bolt ends together.

I'm not sure about heating the linkage vs. the bolt. I think heating the bolt would make it smaller, and heating the linkage would make the hole smaller. I remember putting the linkage in the freezer to expand it before installing the bearings, and warming the bearings up - but I could be wrong.

Works better if you swap these....

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I'm an auto mechanic in the north east- everything I work on is rusty and frozen, so I have a fair amount of experience with this situation :smashpc:\

1st- Please do NOT sawzall the bolt. You're going to do more damage than good 👍

Buy one of these puppies and go to town http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=yes&tool=all&item_ID=80253&group_ID=818&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog. Use this style punch: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_Lg.asp?picFile=/36500/36481.JPG or one with a concave head to prevent the bit from slipping off: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_Lg.asp?picFile=/36600/36520.JPG (note- there are much cheaper air-hammers on the market. A quick google search showed a chicago pneumatic for 40 bucks!)

Get some ear protection and hammer away at the bolt, dont be afraid of making some noise- sometimes you'll need to hold the trigger down for quite a long time!

IMHO you are wasting your time with any other method...

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I really need an air compressor... Thanks everyone for the help i'm gonna try a few of these things and try more heat/ maybe some crc freeze off on the bolt and if its not moving I might just have a local shop take the bolt out for me.

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