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Baffeled! Here is what I have tried. Not running well.

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My son has a 2000 DRZ400s. No mods except plastic and headlight. The bike was not holding a charge when we got it. I replaced the battery. The bike still was konking out, spiting and sputtering if we did not charge it every night. So I bought him a Ricky Stator after I tested the old one bad. Well It still was dying at times and needed a charge. So I figured that the old battery was crap from discharging so many times and bought him one of those expensive Shorai batterys. Still the same issues.

-display blacks out once and a while when driving.

-spits and sputters, dies and cranks until the battery runs out of juice.

-I tested the stator and its still good. I disconnected while running and the bike revs up fine.The stator shows no connection to motor case with ohm meter. We looked at all connections tonight and only found the front brake sw faulty(i dont think this has any bearing on the problem).

-We disconected the red black connector from the rectifier and found a increase of voltage when reconnected.

-My meter shows a spike then a few milliamps when the battery connection is removed and meter leads are between the battery and battery connection. (my meter is analog and not digital-cheapy)

- while the bike is running if I disconnect the battery lead the bike dies. I am pretty sure it is supposto because it needs the battery to charge the coils of the stator????????? I think???

Any way I cannot seem to duplicate the issues in the garage. Only when on the road.

Tomorrow night we are going to remove the gas tank. Dump all gas from the tank and carb. Inspect the carb and sparkplug. I also think I am going to jumper that kickstand sw to illiminate that from being a issue.

ANY OTHER IDEAS? REWARD ---You will keep me from going nuts!

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follow Erik's excellent write-up in FAQ for electrical troubleshooting...follow it step by step to narrow the issue to a single component

sounds like you have a ground wire issue which is why many people do the "free power mod", I have an '01 S model and ended up replacing my stator after 14K miles, no apparant damage but grounded on all 3 phases

bike has been fine now for 3K miles with the new stator

I cleaned all my connectors with spray contact cleaner and then used di-electric grease on most connections...hard to say after so many years what the problem might be...post pics and questions and somebody here will help you get it figured out:thumbsup:

PS...bypass that kickstand switch if you can...do a search...real easy to do...just follow the wiring up under the seat and splice the connections together...was real problem on my bike...doing whoops out in Big Bend and the bike kept cutting out...real easy fix

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My son has a 2000 DRZ400s. No mods except plastic and headlight. The bike was not holding a charge when we got it. I replaced the battery. The bike still was konking out, spiting and sputtering if we did not charge it every night. So I bought him a Ricky Stator after I tested the old one bad. Well It still was dying at times and needed a charge. So I figured that the old battery was crap from discharging so many times and bought him one of those expensive Shorai batterys. Still the same issues.

-display blacks out once and a while when driving. NOTE 1

-spits and sputters, dies and cranks until the battery runs out of juice.

-I tested the stator and its still good. I disconnected while running and the bike revs up fine.The stator shows no connection to motor case with ohm meter. NOTE 2 We looked at all connections tonight and only found the front brake sw faulty(i dont think this has any bearing on the problem).

-We disconected the red black connector from the rectifier and found a increase of voltage when reconnected. NOTE 3

-My meter shows a spike then a few milliamps when the battery connection is removed and meter leads are between the battery and battery connection. (my meter is analog and not digital-cheapy)

- while the bike is running if I disconnect the battery lead the bike dies. I am pretty sure it is supposto because it needs the battery to charge the coils of the stator????????? I think??? NOTE 4

Any way I cannot seem to duplicate the issues in the garage. Only when on the road.

Tomorrow night we are going to remove the gas tank. Dump all gas from the tank and carb. Inspect the carb and sparkplug. I also think I am going to jumper that kickstand sw to illiminate that from being a issue.

ANY OTHER IDEAS? REWARD ---You will keep me from going nuts!

NOTE 1 Display blacks out while riding = voltage dropping too low. Should not happen while running if charging system has output.

NOTE 2 have you checked for continuity from the white and/or black wires that connect to the CDI on the 4 pin connector TO any of the 3 yellow stator wires? This would indicate a short between the signal coil and the charge windings. Not sure if what you said was it will sputter and stall, BUT THEN run if you disconnect the 3 yellows? If so this matches.

NOTE 3 Solving this problem is the purpose of the "Free Power Mod" found in the FAQ section.

NOTE 4 unlike a car which requires excitation current on the field windings the charge system on the DRZ uses permanent magnets on the flywheel. If the engine is turning the magnets are exciting the charge windings. The Regulator/Rectifier shunts unneeded power to keep the voltage regulated. The magnets spin, the windings produce, the R/R rectifies and regulates and presto the red and black wires should have 12V (or a bit more, say 14V) volts to power the bike and charge the battery (if down) with any excess. On a DRZ you could unplug the red/black connector and use it as a generator to power something else if you felt like it. The bike would continue to run off the battery until dead.

So if you are not seeing about 14V from the charge system something is wrong. Attempting to read the output without load will not be accurate though, so make sure it is connected and back probe or measure at the battery.

As the previous poster said there is a complete sequence to follow for testing the charge system in the FAQ. You should follow all the steps to get an accurate diagnosis.

One last thing. When it stalls remove the gas cap and see if there is vacuum from a plugged vent preventing fuel flow.

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Thanks I will check above. I should state the display blinks for a moment then comes back on. Thats why I thought it was a connection problem.

Questions with statements-

While running I disconnected the red/blk wire from the r/r at the connector. I voltage checked the half that went to the r/r and showed around 4 volts. I then put the leads on the battery read around 13-14 volts. I then made the connection up of red/blk and showed a increase of around 1/2 volt at the battery. I think this should mean the stator/regulator is working properly.

- what should happen if the bike is running and the neg or pos lead is disconnected from the battery. My sons bike died. Should it stay running from stator power?

The vent thing sounds real interesting. It never seems to want to restart right after it kinks out. Leave it sit and it starts up. I think the battery dies because the kid sometimes cranks the starter so long trying to restart. Very stupid question but were is the vent on a drz fuel tank?

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If the battery is disconnected it should keep running.

I had a terminal break on one battery and rode it home though the dash did blank out and flash numerous times.

Another batter got so weak I had to push start it every time and it ran fine. If you have a completely dead battery in the bike it should push start though you will have to get the speed up a bit more like down a gentle hill.

I did have my headlight connected which creates some resistive load for the R/R. I haven't tried it since installing my HID headlight.

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Well my sons dies when we disconnect the cable from the battery?????

Also while testing the regulator I get a small pass of current in one direction and almost a direct connection in the other direction with my analog meter. With my digital meter I get no pass of current on one direction and around 8.5 ohms in the other direction. This testing is when I am testing the bridge rectifier for direction.

We did the free power mod last night. I dont see were this will help other than less voltage drop. Its such a short run how much could you loose? Anyway we did it.

Were do I look at since the bike dies when its running and the battery is disconnected???

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Please take the time to read the FAQ section at the top of the DRZ forum. In particular the Electrical Diagnosis section should be followed step by step.

If you have found a manual online it also has instructions for checking the R/R. They rarely fail, but if there have been any dead shorts it would not be impossible to damage them.

How much can you loose? The difference between the battery being 'just charged' and it receiving a saturation charge which will keep it most healthy. By the books the stock wire is heavy enough, but many have found upgrading helped. By the books the connector is heavy enough too, but a lot get corroded and melt.

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We did the free power mod. I did follow the electrical diagnosis and all checked out good. I still cannot figure out why it kills when the battery neg is disconected. I bought a new ricky stator.

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OK I think we figured it out. The bike does run with the negative if I hold the two wires together while they are disconnected. In that process we say the display blink at times. The battey connections had this red dye paint that we sanded and filed off. wirebrushed all connections till shiny and used a product we use at work on the connections (product is ejc- meaning eletrical joint connection). We went for a few mile ride and all seems good. We also didnt like the way the the battery external connection thingy(were you hook up a trickle charger) connections were. Also that external thingy had a flat spot on the positive wire were it was squashed btw the frame and the battery cover. Hopefully this solves the issues

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