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Suzuki SP200 Restoration

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I sold my Kawasaki KLX250 a few months ago to buy a Honda Rebel. I'm a small guy, so I need small bikes. I wouldn't trade the Honda back for my dual sport, but I've missed it since the second I signed the title over.

I decided to keep my eyes open for a fixer upper. I came across what I feel like was a good deal. Picked up the 1988 SP250 less than a week ago. It had sat for about a 1.5 years since last running. I could tell the front shocks needed some love right off. The chain was lost in rust. The previous owner told me I would need to get new rear brakes and a tube for the rear tire. The air filter was rotten and was missing the cap for the intake. What a bummer.

The gas tank was in pretty rough shape it turns out. I realize now that bubbled paint on a gas tank is a bad, bad sign. Got it home and went to slosh it out. Gas immediately began to drip out. I finally decided to sandblast it today. It had at LEAST 60 holes in it, from pinhole to thumb size. I used almost a full package of JB Weld on it.

The pitcock had been replaced, which is good from what I hear. It also had an in line fuel filter. It will have to be replaced, or more likely, removed.

Finally got to try to start the bike. Opened the screw on the bottom of the carb bowl and nothing. My master mechanic partner told me something as retarded at pecking at the carb w/a screwdriver may loosen it up. Worked like a charm. It idles well, but seems to have issues with higher RPM's. It was getting dark by this point, and I noticed that the header pipe was glowing cherry red. May be running a little lean. Hopefully the carb will clear out and I won't have to clean it.

The front headlight works, that's it. Looks like I'm gonna be working with the voltmeter soon. The left rear turn signal is holding water, and I have a hunch it will be replaced also.

I got the chain lubed and wire brushed. It isn't binding up anymore. Got the oil changed with a treatment in. Brushed the rust off of the header and muffler pipes. I also made a makeshift air filter just to get the motor running. Also cleaned the whole thing up.

My plans at this point are to line the tank with a similar chemical to Kreem, then give the tank a good paint job. I would like to paint the frame. I will at some point have to take the front fork off and work on the shocks and seals. Hopefully I can get out of that part without spending much. I'm sure it's low on oil. All the cables need to be cleaned and lubed. I would love to have it running like a brand new refurbished bike by springtime.

The good news is the motor, clutch, wheels and frame seem to be in wonderful shape. Even the tires are barely worn.

I'll also try to get pics up this weekend. I didn't photograph the first few days of work, but I think I can get the point across still. If anyone knows a good place to get a look at a wiring diagram, that would be awesome. I've already looked at the OEM parts list, and it really doesn't help much. Any advice about working on the front shocks would be awesome also.

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What I'd do:

1) Order a factory Suzuki Service Manual.

These can be ordered through a Suzuki motorcycle dealer.

2) Never mind trying to save the rusty drive chain, especially if it has tight/binding joints that won't straighten out.

Buy a new one.

If it breaks while riding the bike, you'll regret it.

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With a little patience I got the sp250 manual on ebay for $30 delivered, like new. Honestly, it's not worth a lot more than that. Suzuki is better at making bikes than manuals in my experience.

You might raise the needle in that carb a notch to help with the lean condition. Covering that airbox might help too, but I think you are better off leaving the cover off and jetting the carb to match. You probably need to clean the carb thourally first though, sounds like you might have clogged jest. Butt simple carb, just tear it down by the exploded view and spray carb cleaner through the jets and holes.

Your needle may not have notches for adjustment, but you can just add a washer between parts 6 and 7, or a thicker one to replace 7. Plastic, brass or stainless would be best. You can probably loosen the mounts, tilt it to one side, pull the top screws off and get at it. EZ. If it has the slots, you can just drop the snap ring one slot and it will enrichen the mix from off idle to just before WOT. Same or similar carb as mine. Does it have an accessible idle mix adjuster? Mine was capped off. Was being the operative word. Idles much better now with the screw adjusted. It was an 1/8 turn from all the way in, now about 1-1/2 or 2 turns out. Mine needs rejetting, but I'm putting it off as I got it close enough with the needle and idle mix.

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Truth is there all better at making bikes than manuals in my experience even a Shop Service Manual are a bit of a joke, What ever to happing good old days of full features detailed full-color photographs and full-color wiring diagrams?.

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Well, I couldn't leave a fellow SPer hanging by a thread!?!?! :smashpc:

There are pdf copy's of a newer DR manuals on the internet. Some factory, some are not. Parts of these manuals are helpful to some degree. If you can't find them, PM me your e-mail address.

The DR200 97-03 from the factory may help, carb looks the same.

DR250-350 aftermarket manual may help too, 90-94

I think the 250 has a BST33 and the 200 a BST31 Mikuni

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I wouldn't "tune" the carb till you've got a replacement air filter. You'll have no idea if it's the lack of proper filter or a gunky carb. [been there recently myself]

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What does the hose that is labeled 35 go to?

That vent tube for back of the carb

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It goes nowhere, it's a vent. Just drop it down in front of the shock. I don't think it's capable of leaking, like the bottom one will if the float/needle valve fail.

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Got the carb cleaned up. It really wasn't all that bad inside. I had repeatedly flushed it when I ran it earlier though. I have it reassembled and will put it back on after a little external cleaning (nothing major, just some built up gunk).

I'm going to be using red kote on the fuel tank today. I did a lot of reading, and it seemed like people that used both it and Kreem seemed to prefer it. I suppose it sounded more dummy proof to me, and that's important in my house. It turned out to be about half the price as well.

I was also told that I should remove the spark arrestor and run the bike at a high rpm to clean out the exhaust. It may help remove any obstructions in it. It looked like the large bolt on the bottom of the muffler. Does that sound about right?

What is the best way to remove the stickers from the gas tank? I'm going to have to put a few good coats of paint on it. I had myself convinced yesterday to totally repaint the entire bike, from the frame to the fairings, but now I think just a spot painting on the frame and a good coat on the tank will be more than enough. I've gotta keep this thing on a budget.

Finally for today, I got a new air filter headed this way. No sense in half-asin somethin as important as the air intake. But wow, it wasn't cheap.

After it get's in (next week I'm told) I'll be able to restart the bike and hopefully it will run like a deer. I'll get the pics on ASAP.

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I was also told that I should remove the spark arrestor and run the bike at a high rpm to clean out the exhaust. It may help remove any obstructions in it. It looked like the large bolt on the bottom of the muffler. Does that sound about right?

That's it.

I duno what the best way is on the stickers, I'd sand them off.

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To get the stickers off, get a heat gun, heat the decals up until they're hot to the touch, then use a razor blade (not the kind you shave with!) and peel the decal off slowly. You'll have to use some sort of adhesive remover afterwards to avoid clogging up your sandpaper prematurely.

Paitence is KEY!

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That sounds good. I've got a heat gun at work I can borrow. I was thinking it may be the way to go. I'll give it a shot this coming week.

The first coat of Red Kote is dry. It looks pretty good. I'm going to give it a second coat today though. It was pitted pretty bad. The first coat seemed to fill in the pits pretty well, but it could stand another. I'm going to hold off till around 2 pm to give it a full 24 hours to dry.

Thanks for all the help so far. It's helped out a ton.

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I've got one for a DR200, looks about like my sp250 wiring. I can e-mail both if you give me your address. PM will keep the spammers from getting you address.

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Got the tank finished. It looks pretty good for a redneck job, if I do say so myself.

The red kote worked out pretty good. Hopefully the tank will last another 23 years.

I'm gonna pick up another chain in the next couple of days. The more I look at it, the more I'm convinced it can't be saved. The good news is the sprockets look to be pretty new. I think they will make it.

Thanks for the wiring diagrams knudsen. I'll work on that this week. I had to make a minor modification to the battery well. I can get batteries from work, but they are a bit longer than the size that the sp200 is made to use.

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Get a DR-Z125 manual, while not a perfect match, the motors are similar enough that it'll be helpful. Usually when a chain is crap, the sprockets are too.

I had a DR125 that I routed the vent tubes down like they typically are on most bikes, took it for a ride through a quadtard rut that had filled with water and sucked up enough water the bike wouldn't keep running. If there's a notch in the air box for a vent hose, route them up not down so you don't end up pushing it out of the woods like I did.

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Hey, BB, been off forum for a month or so. How's the progress?

I haven't taken mine down for winter yet, so still doing weekend projects. Almost got hand guards done. Had to fab it all but the plastics...:busted:

Ride happy. bro. :busted:

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I have an 88sp200. Doing wiring now, wouldnlove that guide. Cant even find a wire 5hat would got battery!

 

 

Sticks? I just hit em with paint remover. Did my whole tank with it. Whats a good clear coat? I wanna go bare steel....

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