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air filters for my X and rim grease

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I have no confidence in my ability to oil and install my air filter. It seemed like every time i took my 650R out for a dusty ride my air box would have a fine film of dust on it no matter how well i oiled it. I just don't want this happening to the X. I'm not sure what filter is in the bike but it needs replaced. I bought a pre oiled No Toil as a back up but was thinking about buying a Twin Air for a permanent filter along with Twin Air oil. Is anyone using some sort of rim grease? And when oiling is there too much? Also my bike no longer has the backfire screen installed. Is it important to get the Twin Air with the backfire resistant foam?

Thanks

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Buy the original air filter because no other filter filters better. Proper air filtration is critical for this engine. Buy the backfire screen as well. You don't want to be at the dunes throwing sand into your airbox to put out a fire.

I use Bel-Ray air filter oil and PJ1 air filter cleaner. It is very thick and I purposely put a good amount on the rim of the filter. I put the air filter oil inside and out making sure all the pores are covered in oil but I make sure it isn't at the point where the oil is going to drip.

A dusty air box interior is what we are trying to avoid of course. I live in the desert and my airbox interior is always spotless.

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I have no confidence in my ability to oil and install my air filter. It seemed like every time i took my 650R out for a dusty ride my air box would have a fine film of dust on it no matter how well i oiled it. I just don't want this happening to the X. I'm not sure what filter is in the bike but it needs replaced. I bought a pre oiled No Toil as a back up but was thinking about buying a Twin Air for a permanent filter along with Twin Air oil. Is anyone using some sort of rim grease? And when oiling is there too much? Also my bike no longer has the backfire screen installed. Is it important to get the Twin Air with the backfire resistant foam?

Thanks

Buy the original air filter because no other filter filters better. Proper air filtration is critical for this engine. Buy the backfire screen as well. You don't want to be at the dunes throwing sand into your airbox to put out a fire.

I use Bel-Ray air filter oil and PJ1 air filter cleaner. It is very thick and I purposely put a good amount on the rim of the filter. I put the air filter oil inside and out making sure all the pores are covered in oil but I make sure it isn't at the point where the oil is going to drip.

A dusty air box interior is what we are trying to avoid of course. I live in the desert and my airbox interior is always spotless.

OK, I think the descriptive terms are being mixed up..........

Inside your Still air-box is an air filter. Behind the air filter is an air-box boot.

The air-box will always be covered in dirt.

The air-box boot should never be covered in dirt.

I see no point in keeping your air box spotless.

Dust getting in behind the air filter in the boot then the carb, is from:

- bad boot seal at air box (very common Honda issue)

- under-oiled air filter

- using the wrong kind of oil (dilutes under heat, and pools in the air box)

- not having a good seal at the air box edge: use grease or a sealing edge filter like the UNI (which I still grease)

- carb vents not filtered, dirt going everywhere

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Ah, by "airbox interior", I meant air-box section behind the air filter.

It would be no fun to have a "spotless" air box!

:smashpc:

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Ah, by "airbox interior", I meant air-box section behind the air filter.

It would be no fun to have a "spotless" air box!

:smashpc:

I see guys at the track take out there air filter, put in a 'twin air box seal' to cover where the airfilter went, spray in cleaner and then hose out the air box.

***?

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Interesting. I suppose they're attempting to remove the greasy dirt residue that accumulates in the air-box, but that would be making things even messier. :smashpc:

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Yeah what I meant was the air box boot. On the XRR there's not really anything but air box boot. On my x the air box is pretty dirty probably due to the fact the box has been opened, but the boot is fairly clean and that's how I want it to stay.

So if you don't run the backfire screen what are the best filter options?

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Yeah what I meant was the air box boot. On the XRR there's not really anything but air box boot. On my x the air box is pretty dirty probably due to the fact the box has been opened, but the boot is fairly clean and that's how I want it to stay.

So if you don't run the backfire screen what are the best filter options?

I personally prefer UNI brand. Like stock, with multiple layers and a great sealing lip, but not delicate and porus like a Twin-air.

No Toil cleaner, oil, and grease.

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I personally prefer UNI brand. Like stock, with multiple layers and a great sealing lip, but not delicate and porus like a Twin-air.

No Toil cleaner, oil, and grease.

X2:thumbsup: Uni red filter works just as good as stock and isn't so dang easy to tear up. I also use no toil cleaner oil and sealer grease.

cheep and effective.

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/AIR-FILTER-OIL-KIT-NOTOIL/?id=125175[/url

I also put a little bit of ultra black silicone on the air boot seal connectin to the air box, then tighten it in place. it has never leaked again.

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I have no confidence in my ability to oil and install my air filter. It seemed like every time i took my 650R out for a dusty ride my air box would have a fine film of dust on it no matter how well i oiled it. I just don't want this happening to the X. I'm not sure what filter is in the bike but it needs replaced. I bought a pre oiled No Toil as a back up but was thinking about buying a Twin Air for a permanent filter along with Twin Air oil. Is anyone using some sort of rim grease? And when oiling is there too much? Also my bike no longer has the backfire screen installed. Is it important to get the Twin Air with the backfire resistant foam?

Thanks

All great answers! But, I only use the stock filter the same as JCR Team Honda and have no problems but I do a couple of things that no one has mentioned.

1) First wash your filter in some sort of solvent and then rinse in cold water. I hang mine up and let it dry for one day (24 hours)

2) Next day, I oil it with spray on oil inside and out....not to heavy on the inside and then do the same....hang it up for a day.

3) The install, I grease the lip and slide it into place by turning it counter clockwise. DONE.

OBTW. Each time I remove a filter, I use Simple Green and wash the Air Box out compleatley and use a rag to wipe down the Air Boot just to be safe.

By hanging up your air filter you'll notice that you will not have to replace or unclog your pilot jet.

Happy Trails.

RAK

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I have no confidence in my ability to oil and install my air filter. It seemed like every time i took my 650R out for a dusty ride my air box would have a fine film of dust on it no matter how well i oiled it. I just don't want this happening to the X. I'm not sure what filter is in the bike but it needs replaced. I bought a pre oiled No Toil as a back up but was thinking about buying a Twin Air for a permanent filter along with Twin Air oil. Is anyone using some sort of rim grease? And when oiling is there too much? Also my bike no longer has the backfire screen installed. Is it important to get the Twin Air with the backfire resistant foam?

You are not oiling your filter properly - you are under-oiling, probably by a lot. The filter must be saturated, then squeezed out. If using spray oil, plan on using at least 1/4 can each time. Put oil onto the outside of the filter then squish it around until both inside and outside are evenly colored by the oil, then squeeze out any excess. Make sure to hit the rim area well. You'll eventually figure out how much to put on to saturate the filter, but not waste too much. Once the filter is completely oiled through, wrap it in paper towels and squeeze all of the oil out of it that you can. Install the filter, and there is no need for rim grease - that stuff hasn't been needed for 30 years since they stopped using filters with vinyl rims. Make sure that the filter cage securely squishes the foam rim of the filter under it and you'll be all set.

JayC

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All great answers! But, I only use the stock filter the same as JCR Team Honda and have no problems but I do a couple of things that no one has mentioned.

1) First wash your filter in some sort of solvent and then rinse in cold water. I hang mine up and let it dry for one day (24 hours)

2) Next day, I oil it with spray on oil inside and out....not to heavy on the inside and then do the same....hang it up for a day.

3) The install, I grease the lip and slide it into place by turning it counter clockwise. DONE.

OBTW. Each time I remove a filter, I use Simple Green and wash the Air Box out compleatley and use a rag to wipe down the Air Boot just to be safe.

By hanging up your air filter you'll notice that you will not have to replace or unclog your pilot jet.

Happy Trails.

RAK

This is just overkill and unnecessary IMO. A properly installed and oiled filter will trap as much dirt as is possible for it's design no matter how much extra time, love, voodoo and magic procedures you throw at it.

I have a few filters. One stock and two No-Toil brand and I keep a couple "one time use" Ready Filters in my toolbox if needed during a long weekend. I ditched the screen. No-Toil filters have a flame retardant inner layer although I'm not really worried about my bike burning down. I believe it's mostly a myth. Have you ever actually seen a bike that caught fire due to backfire and the absence of a screen???? Didn't think so.

I use No-Toil oil and wash my filters in the sink. I then throw them in the clothes dryer til they're dry. Yeah that's right, the dryer, takes just a few minutes to dry. I do not use rim grease as it hasn't been necessary on any modern dirt bike in the last 20+ years and it's just messy. The most important step to air filter maintenance is proper installation. No amount of oil or rim grease or filter magic is going to counteract improper instalation. I NEVER have a dirty air boot or valve issues on any of my bikes and the cylinder walls and piston skirts always have minimal, if any, wear so I know my filter procedures are working.

Sticky lubes and the harsh chemical cleaners used to remove them are no longer needed with the advent of No-Toil and other bio filter oils. Air filter design and filter oil technology has advanced just like everything else. Many of you are stuck in your old ways from old days. Evolve! Air filter maintenance isn't rocket science and olde timey tricks and tips no longer apply. One last point, no matter how you choose to clean and oil your filters, they do have a life span and will eventually need replaced. The foam ages and breaks down. It's just the nature of the materials used. Harsh cleaners will only make them break down faster. Rant over! :smashpc:

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Sticky lubes and the harsh chemical cleaners used to remove them are no longer needed with the advent of No-Toil and other bio filter oils. Air filter design and filter oil technology has advanced just like everything else. Many of you are stuck in your old ways from old days. Evolve! Air filter maintenance isn't rocket science and olde timey tricks and tips no longer apply. One last point, no matter how you choose to clean and oil your filters, they do have a life span and will eventually need replaced. The foam ages and breaks down. It's just the nature of the materials used. Harsh cleaners will only make them break down faster. Rant over!

I'm all for going the green bio route but what i've read and been told is that those oils dry out quickly like in a week and tend to pool at the bottom of filters leaving the tops vulnerable. Has this been your experience? And have you tried the Twin Air line of Bio?

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I'm all for going the green bio route but what i've read and been told is that those oils dry out quickly like in a week and tend to pool at the bottom of filters leaving the tops vulnerable. Has this been your experience? And have you tried the Twin Air line of Bio?

My main reason for switching to No-Toil has more to do with convenience than being green. Being able to wash my filters in the sink and toss them in the dryer has made filter maintenance something I don't dread doing anymore. No more solvents or gasoline and your filter comes out like new after washing. I use the No Toil cleaner, it's cheap and lasts a long time because you only need a little bit. I've tried other soaps and they just don't cut it, although I have heard of people using Simple Green, I'll stick with No Toil because I hate the strong smell of Simple Green. Heck you can even throw your filters in the clothes washer with some No-Toil cleaner if you want.

In my experience, No-Toil does not dry out, even after the bike has sat awhile. I also have not experienced any pooling whatsoever. The stuff is tacky and stays put. IMO there is absolutely no downside to using No-Toil. There's many skeptics and naysayers that say otherwise, but as a long time user, I have the experience and know the difference.....I have not tried the Twin Air bio.

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I went to my local shop today and got a new filter and some oil. They had the Twin Air bio oil so I decided to give it a try. It's way more expensive but the girl at the shop was a no toil user but was curious about twin air oil so I decided to be a guinea pig. I'm a sucker for piercings and tatoo's.

I'll report back my findings.

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My main reason for switching to No-Toil has more to do with convenience than being green. Being able to wash my filters in the sink and toss them in the dryer has made filter maintenance something I don't dread doing anymore. No more solvents or gasoline and your filter comes out like new after washing. I use the No Toil cleaner, it's cheap and lasts a long time because you only need a little bit. I've tried other soaps and they just don't cut it, although I have heard of people using Simple Green, I'll stick with No Toil because I hate the strong smell of Simple Green. Heck you can even throw your filters in the clothes washer with some No-Toil cleaner if you want.

In my experience, No-Toil does not dry out, even after the bike has sat awhile. I also have not experienced any pooling whatsoever. The stuff is tacky and stays put. IMO there is absolutely no downside to using No-Toil. There's many skeptics and naysayers that say otherwise, but as a long time user, I have the experience and know the difference.....I have not tried the Twin Air bio.

Been using No-Toil since 2002 with no 'side effects'. Keeps my motor nice and clean.........300 hrs

BillKrannie010.jpg

BillKrannie014.jpg

kranniehead022.jpg ....ok a little cleaner here....

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I had problems with no toil also. If the bike sits for any length of time the oil will settle. After 3 years of no problems I switched to no toil. Had to do a top end after learning the hard way shortly after. You can't let it sit for a week or two. I stopped using it. Am sure it would be fine if you are one of those that cleans the filter before every ride, but I'm not. No problems since I went back to my ol trusty Fab 1

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