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96 RM 125 Head Stud Broken! Help?

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So I got me a 96 RM 125 off craiglist for 370 bucks. It ran, but like crap and was smoking bad, and had barley any compression. So I figured it was time for a top end and some fresh parts and gaskets. While I was removing the cylinder nuts one was stuck and did not wanna budge. I torqued on ot with a cheater bar and it broke the whole stud.. There is a good portion left. I have tried heating it with a mini torch, and I left penetrating oil soaking over night, and the stud still wont budge:foul: I have been grabing the stud with vise grips and it just will not move.. Its like its welded in there. What can I do other than what I have already done? Any and all input is appreciated.

Here is a few pics of what im working with

2011-09-28_18-27-21_278.jpg

2011-09-28_18-26-53_247.jpg

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Nasty! Could try weding a nut onto it and have another go, usually the heat from welding the nut on will break the corrosion. Other than that all I can suggest is carefully drilling it out starting with a small drill as close to the centre as possible and working your way up in drill size until you can collapse the stud and get it out.

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OUCH! Sometimes, you can get two nuts (heh,heh) on the stud, tighten them together, then back out the lower one and it will come out. Since the Vice grips have already buggered up the threads, then next I would try to heat up the case around the stud (dont heat the stud) lightly tap the stud with a ball peen, then try the vice grips again. I would not try to drill it out yourself. If you need it drilled out, buy a new stud, and take it to a machine shop and have them do it. they will need the new stud to gauge how deep to drill. Hope this helps.

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Go get a grade 8 nut that will just fit over the stud or half ass screw onto the stud. Weld in the center of the nut, let it cool, now soak it in PB blaster, now slap a wrench on it and it should come out.

The grade 8 nut will not round off if you need to get ruff with it, plus it will weld better than a soft grade bolt. Once the stud breaks loose, work it in and out and spray it with PB blaster as you are removing it.

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muriatic acid will eat the corrosion caused by dissimilar metals and coolant and can be purchased for about $5 gallon at a mason supply. Let it soak in, reapply, use gloves and goggles, work the bolt back and forth

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muriatic acid will eat the corrosion caused by dissimilar metals and coolant and can be purchased for about $5 gallon at a mason supply. Let it soak in, reapply, use gloves and goggles, work the bolt back and forth

Thats a good idea. I use muriatic acid to clean exhaust manifolds on the boat. Eats the rust right out of there.

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cut it so you actually have a half a circle so you can easily grip it with a vice grip

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Thanks for all the input! I am going yo see if I can find some PB Blaster at the parts house and let it soak a night or two... Then if it still wont move I guess I will bust out the propane torch and try heating up hotter than the mini torch was getting it. It really sucks because I have all the new parts and wanna slap it back together. Its riding season here in Cali and I have been working on all my bikes. Just finished tearing down my wifes 02 RM 85. Tore the whole bike down and painted the frame and repacked all the bearings.. Now if I could just finish this one id be happy!:smashpc:

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