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'09-'11 - What's the best mod for the $$$

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Just wondering what's the best mod you guys have done to your KX450Fs for the money? For me it's getting the suspension done by someone who knows what they are doing.

I recently got my '09 KX450F suspension back from RG3 in California. This is the second time I have sent it out to them. The first time I got it revalved with their "Smart-Valves" in the forks. This most recent time I got it rebuilt.

I can't tell you guys have much of a difference after getting my suspension back it made my KX450 feel. This thing soaks up the braking bumps like they are not even there! Coming out of ruts under power, the shock doesn't "dance" around like it used to. If you haven't got your suspension done before, I highly recommend RG3.

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Good to hear. Suspension is definitely at the top of my list for mods. I had my 06 done by Enzo and i loved it. Might try RG3 this time on my 12.

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Suspension...nothing's even close....these bikes make 52 to 55 horsepower stock now!!! 99.9% of us don't have the talent to use half of that...but suspension is better for the beginner to the Pro...just my .02!

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Suspension...nothing's even close....these bikes make 52 to 55 horsepower stock now!!! 99.9% of us don't have the talent to use half of that...but suspension is better for the beginner to the Pro...just my .02!

That^^

:smashpc:

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Suspension... 1a. Seat time... 1b.

Too true. And during that seat time, dialing in the settings. Which cost nothing.

If I had an '11 bike, I'd be hunting for a cheap (on sale) full Ti slip on muffler. Anything to lower and centralize the weight is a good thing.

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Recently on my 06, I was experimenting with the height of the bike. It's amazing the difference a few mm makes to the top heavy side-to-side feel. The later 09-11 bikes should behave the same. This is a very low $$ mod.

For a few months now, I've had 0.48 fork springs and a 5.4 rear, and that's fine.

At present I've got the 08 pull-rod and rocker in the rear, I like the suspension action but with 100mm sag the rear is relatively high off the ground. So I have the forks caps up about 7mm (front on the tall side) to balance out the turning. But overall it does feel a bit top heavy. It's a big bike at present! Railing left-right ruts aint so easy. To get a lighter, planted side-to-side feel, I'm running an effective 21mm triple clamp offset, and that helps.

There's two problems with the 21mm offset. 1. I'm using an e-axle and the axle flex does make the front tire feel slightly vague at times. 2. bumps and holes cause a lot more load thru the bars with low offset (more trail).

So next time out I'm going back to the 07 pull rod (it's about 1.5mm longer) but keeping the 08 rocker (nicer progression IMO), which will lower the rear fender 4mm. Then I'll lower the triples to somewhere around 12mm below the fork caps to balance the turns. Then (to avoid nasty bar forces) on hard pack bumps I'll go back to the OEM stiff axle and 23mm offset (09 triples). Use 21mm for sand tracks only.

So back to where I was, but with the 08 rocker part and my '10 forks.

I'm confident it'll feel better when setup low again. If people lower radiators by 20mm that makes big difference, then lowering bike about 8mm has to be huge. I'll drag pegs in ruts more often, but so what.

Edited by numroe
longer pull rod lowered rear 4mm not 10

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get suspension dialed, then spend the rest of your money for maintaince/wearable items & riding/racing costs.

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Suspension for sure, I feel the same as the original poster except replace RG3 with MB1. They also do great work and the difference feels like magic. The next thing I do after that is 22mm-offset triple clamps, DRD exhaust and nice fresh Dunlop tires.

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Pro Circuit/any company 22mm clamps... best thing ive ever done for any bike ive ever owned. Just put a set of PC clamps on my 2010 and its a night/day difference. The biggest complaint I had about my bike was it wanting to stand up, go straight, and wash out in corners... thats all gone and the front end wants to stay planted everywhere.

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Recently on my 06, I was experimenting with the height of the bike. It's amazing the difference a few mm makes to the top heavy side-to-side feel. The later 09-11 bikes should behave the same. This is a very low $$ mod.

For a few months now, I've had 0.48 fork springs and a 5.4 rear, and that's fine.

At present I've got the 08 pull-rod and rocker in the rear, I like the suspension action but with 100mm sag the rear is relatively high off the ground. So I have the forks caps up about 7mm (front on the tall side) to balance out the turning. But overall it does feel a bit top heavy. It's a big bike at present! Railing left-right ruts aint so easy. To get a lighter, planted side-to-side feel, I'm running an effective 21mm triple clamp offset, and that helps.

There's two problems with the 21mm offset. 1. I'm using an e-axle and the axle flex does make the front tire feel slightly vague at times. 2. bumps and holes cause a lot more load thru the bars with low offset (more trail).

So next time out I'm going back to the 07 pull rod (it's about 1.5mm longer) but keeping the 08 rocker (nicer progression IMO), which will lower the rear fender 4mm. Then I'll lower the triples to somewhere around 12mm below the fork caps to balance the turns. Then (to avoid nasty bar forces) on hard pack bumps I'll go back to the OEM stiff axle and 23mm offset (09 triples). Use 21mm for sand tracks only.

So back to where I was, but with the 08 rocker part and my '10 forks.

I'm confident it'll feel better when setup low again. If people lower radiators by 20mm that makes big difference, then lowering bike about 8mm has to be huge. I'll drag pegs in ruts more often, but so what.

So you are running the e axle. Can you say more about how it works? You mention axle flex, is that due to the reduced axle diameter or the small bolt used to hold the axle at the end? Do you feel the flex is excessive or dangerous? I'm asking because I have one that I had new spacers made for since they no longer made the axle for my 06. Since I race motocross and I tend to be somewhat larger than most racers I was a little concerned about durability and safety. I sure would like to quicken the steering though.

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So you are running the e axle. Can you say more about how it works? You mention axle flex, is that due to the reduced axle diameter or the small bolt used to hold the axle at the end? Do you feel the flex is excessive or dangerous? I'm asking because I have one that I had new spacers made for since they no longer made the axle for my 06. Since I race motocross and I tend to be somewhat larger than most racers I was a little concerned about durability and safety. I sure would like to quicken the steering though.

I only use the e-axle on groomed tracks or soft sand. Because the 21mm offset works great in those conditions. For bumpy tracks I go the stock axle, so 23mm offset. I dont like the agro bar forces with low offset in the bumps.

You can feel the front wander a bit more when the e-axle flexes. Which is why I assume they stopped making them. The flex is because the load taking axle (inside the offset collars) is smaller diam. Even with correct axle spacer width and the right fork lug hard up against the right spacer, there is still some axle flex. I just set the axle on zero, them remove and re-test with the stock axle, and it's noticable but not as much as being out one click on the rebound. I'm a bit fussy about setup.

But the e-axle seems plenty tough. I've smashed and bottomed the forks many times with the e-axle and I'm still alive to write about it.

BTW: I'm 165 lbs, and went back to the 5.0 rear spring with more preload (I dont have a 5.2), and the longer 134.5mm 07 pull rod in the linkage and fork triples back down to 12mm below the fork caps. IE. lowered whole bike and softened the end of the shock stroke. It's better for me.

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Others will disagree, but the way I feel it, I don't believe lower offset quickens the steering.

Lower offset increases traction and that quickens up the chassis turning.

The down side is the bar forces with the extra steering trail. If the bars rip out of your hands you can crash. A spectacular example being Chad Reed at Millville.

It think less offset actually slows down the steering. That's what I feel. Slower steering = easer lean entering the turn. Which stops the chassis standing up. More easy lean = better turning.

2 stroke or 250F riders probably think this is a load of crap. But on a 450 it's real.

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I only use the e-axle on groomed tracks or soft sand. Because the 21mm offset works great in those conditions. For bumpy tracks I go the stock axle, so 23mm offset. I dont like the agro bar forces with low offset in the bumps.

You can feel the front wander a bit more when the e-axle flexes. Which is why I assume they stopped making them. The flex is because the load taking axle (inside the offset collars) is smaller diam. Even with correct axle spacer width and the right fork lug hard up against the right spacer, there is still some axle flex. I just set the axle on zero, them remove and re-test with the stock axle, and it's noticable but not as much as being out one click on the rebound. I'm a bit fussy about setup.

But the e-axle seems plenty tough. I've smashed and bottomed the forks many times with the e-axle and I'm still alive to write about it.

BTW: I'm 165 lbs, and went back to the 5.0 rear spring with more preload (I dont have a 5.2), and the longer 134.5mm 07 pull rod in the linkage and fork triples back down to 12mm below the fork caps. IE. lowered whole bike and softened the end of the shock stroke. It's better for me.

Good info. Most of the tracks I ride are groomed well, so it should be good then. Right now I run my forks 10 mm up in the clamps and have a Kouba link in the rear to lower it in the back. I'll try the later model rocker to firm up the stroke. I didn't know about that. Thanks for the info.:busted:

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