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bleeding brakes?

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replacing my front brake pads and fluid.. do i have to bleed the brakes or is there special steps or something that i should follow?

i checked the honda manual but it didn't mention any of that it just said fill to the upper line level..

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compress the pistons all the way in first, then replace the pads.

heres a little trick where you wont have to bleed the system, if your just replacing fluid

when replacing the fluid, run a drain line into a bottle or pan or whatever you want. crack the bleeder and let the fluid run through it while filling the master cylinder everytime it gets low dont get any air in the line or else your gonna have to bleed the whole system. once clean fluid is coming out (usually fill the MC up about 3 or 4 times) then close the bleed screw and top of the master cylinder. then pump the lever until it stiffens up, good to go

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yes you have to bleed them the simplest way to do so is pump the brakes and while holding the the brake crack the bleeder screw just as you would do on a car

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Yes I figured that.. is the bleeder screw what I think it is? Right above the banjo bolt right

it will have a black cap on it, pop that off and youll see a hole. crack the 8mm nut and the fluid will come out

make sure your front brake lever is level and the MC cap is off too. dont let it suck any air, keep an eye on the level. when it gets low fill it back and let it drain..etc..

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Ok got It... Next question

I bought ebc pads front and back and the back pads are super thick and I cannot fit the disc all the way through the pads.. is it because I put the aluminum retainers that go on the very outside of the stock pads on.. do I really need those?

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So I took those aluminum retainers along with the padding that goes inside them and the rim fit back on... Am I good to go?

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Hey guys, I did not have good luck bleeding my 2011 crf 450 traditional methods. The front brake would intermitantly go soft(no jokes pls). Today racing it caused me some real pRoblems. So, I went to Napa and bought a $ 50 bleeder that suck the fluid from nipple at the caliper. It seemed to work really well, find out tomorrow if it holds up in race conditions.

Good luck.

Phil

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