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flame out help... different though

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Thanks in advance for any help.

Issue - when encountering a medium to difficult obstacle, there are times that I will grab some throttle near completion to recover from a mistake, or whatever. 7 out 10 times, after clearing the obstacle and I have reduced throttle, when I grab a handle full of throttle again, the bike will flame out and has a more difficult time restarting. Why?

The bike:

- Fresh valves ( 1 month ) and issue happened prior.

- Opened air box

- No backfire screen w/ no toil filter

- Aftermarket full exhaust ( could probably seal better at head )

- JD jetting 172 main and the low alt needle.

- Quickshot 3 adj pilot. Appears to have an optimal "squirt" flow / duration.

- air screw 1.75 out. Have tried more and less.

- ride mostly in Utah

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Are your throttle wicks close together? My thoughts were thinking that maybe your ap isn't filling back up quick enough. Maybe the ap pushrod is slow to come back up and it can't get a good squirt on second stab. I have heard of corrosion building up in the ap rod chamber but have not seen any.

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Thanks in advance for any help.

Issue - when encountering a medium to difficult obstacle, there are times that I will grab some throttle near completion to recover from a mistake, or whatever. 7 out 10 times, after clearing the obstacle and I have reduced throttle, when I grab a handle full of throttle again, the bike will flame out and has a more difficult time restarting. Why?

The bike:

- Fresh valves ( 1 month ) and issue happened prior.

- Opened air box

- No backfire screen w/ no toil filter

- Aftermarket full exhaust ( could probably seal better at head )

- JD jetting 172 main and the low alt needle.

- Quickshot 3 adj pilot. Appears to have an optimal "squirt" flow / duration.

- air screw 1.75 out. Have tried more and less.

- ride mostly in Utah

Need to know what year the X is, and pilot size.

The Quickshot has nothing to do with pilot, it is an adjustable leak jet.

With knowing the year, we can give you accurate advice.

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Sorry Krannie...

- 05 X

- stock pilot

- the ap diaphragm center pin has been ground down.

OK, a few things to do:

- Fresh valves ( 1 month ) and issue happened prior.

- Opened air box

- No backfire screen w/ no toil filter

- Aftermarket full exhaust ( could probably seal better at head ) TEST FOR LEAKS USING SPRAY BRAKE CLEANER WITH ENGINE RUNNING. YOU'LL HEAR A CHANGE IN IDLE IF IT;'S LEAKING

- JD jetting 172 main and the low alt needle. LOW ELEVATION IN UTAH? YOU SHOULD BE RED AT 6K AND BELOW, BLUE ABOVE THAT

- Quickshot 3 adj pilot. Appears to have an optimal "squirt" flow / duration.

- air screw 1.75 out. Have tried more and less.

- ride mostly in Utah

First off, there have been many reports of bad castings inside the Boyeseen products, especially the quckshot products. Let's assume its working. If it turns out that all the other things don't help, remove it and put in a 50 leak jet.

Now, the main reason for bog is a lean condition in the apump spray. Adding the Quickshot or a 50 leak will cure this.

The second reason for bog is the apump linkage delay. Many people use the oring or saftey wire, which helps a lot, but causes other problems (binding, rich bog condition, etc).

The best way to solve it is to add a Merge Racing or R&D ampump 'detent spring'.

It is the outer most spring on the throttle return cam . It is tricky to install, what with the inner (cam spring) outer (apump linkage) and the cam shaft, etc. But it can be done. The trick is to put the outer spring on without having it in proper position, then pull it into position once the whole assembly is in place, with a dental tool.

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