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loctite gone off?

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I just did the stator bolts preventative maintenance and since I had the loctite out and no torque wrench (it's being calibrated) I just decided to loctite everything.

However I forgot bolt up those things that hold various cables/tubes on the stator cover bolts, so when I undid the loctite'd bolt (having been there for the appropriate amount of time to set) they didn't 'crack' like I expected them to/remembered it doing

It just sort of made it slightly harder to undo for it's entire length.

Is this what other people have experienced? I'm starting to doubt my loctite fix and am considering going back and redoing it with my newly aquired high strength (red) permatex loctite

For reference it's permatex blue (medium strength) that was used and I've had it for about a year since I did some intensive maintenance on my old CBR250RR.

cheers for any help

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I just did the stator bolts preventative maintenance and since I had the loctite out and no torque wrench (it's being calibrated) I just decided to loctite everything.

However I forgot bolt up those things that hold various cables/tubes on the stator cover bolts, so when I undid the loctite'd bolt (having been there for the appropriate amount of time to set) they didn't 'crack' like I expected them to/remembered it doing

It just sort of made it slightly harder to undo for it's entire length.

Is this what other people have experienced? I'm starting to doubt my loctite fix and am considering going back and redoing it with my newly aquired high strength (red) permatex loctite

For reference it's permatex blue (medium strength) that was used and I've had it for about a year since I did some intensive maintenance on my old CBR250RR.

cheers for any help

Internet descriptions of "Feel" are subjective at best.

The fastener “should” have had significant additional resistance upon being removed, assuming the thread locker had cured.

Time, temp, materials being used on all contribute.

The thread locker doe have a storage temp window and a use by date… My personal experience is, the temp for storage is more important than the use by date.

If in doubt, do it again.

Stator fasteners really should have medium strength only, due to their size, and likely hood at being removed, and how used (not in a rotating, moving part.)

The flywheel / starter gear fasteners should have High Strength used

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Loctite is a plastic that cures in the absence of air. A guess we all know that. On very clean parts Loctite will fill the voids in the threads and bond the parts. This can greatly increase break-a-way torque. On parts that have a film of oil on the surface, the Loctite still cures and fill the voids, but does not bond as well. It still imparts a locking action and provides the "running" torque you feel on disassembly but the break-a-way torque is not as high. This may explain your observation.

I use red everywhere and don't really have a problem with disassembly. Only time I had a problem was when I used green supper supper strong on some extra fine (0.5mm pitch) 6mm aluminum threads. Then I did manage to damage the threads on disassembly.

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I've found that locktited screw removal force increases dramatically if the screws are cleaned of grease pror to application. Follow the suggestion in the FAQ for what type of Locktite to use. Red can be a problem if the screws have been cleaned properly prior to application. You will need a torch to remove. But again, follow the FAQ recomendation. They are the experts.

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