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Oil Filters. Anyone using the stainless/ reusables?

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I have a K&P filter. Love it. Had it in for about 200 hrs. I clean it roughly every 30 hrs of run time. It has lots of filter surface area and takes ages to build up anything significant, so I could probably leave it in for three times as long as that and still get ample oil flow. However I like to inspect it, to ensure the mesh ends are bonded as when new and rubber seal looks ok.

When the engine is stopped, the SS filter retains a lot less oil than a paper filter, so with SS filter installed, a little more oil comes out during drains.

My engine has been great - so far. I ride at intermediate pace, at mid revs most of the time. Done 305 hrs on the engine. Original bottom end. I use Shell or Delo diesel oil at $4 per liter. The engine still goes great.

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I have a K&P filter. Love it. Had it in for about 200 hrs. I clean it roughly every 30 hrs of run time. It has lots of filter surface area and takes ages to build up anything significant, so I could probably leave it in for three times as long as that and still get ample oil flow. However I like to inspect it, to ensure the mesh ends are bonded as when new and rubber seal looks ok.

When the engine is stopped, the SS filter retains a lot less oil than a paper filter, so with SS filter installed, a little more oil comes out during drains.

My engine has been great - so far. I ride at intermediate pace, at mid revs most of the time. Done 305 hrs on the engine. Original bottom end. I use Shell or Delo diesel oil at $4 per liter. The engine still goes great.

I just ordered the PC filter for $30. Now Im going to bulk order some Maxima 10w-40 and be set for a while. If you have to buy stuff locally, they bend you over. :smashpc:

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http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

There's a new type of filter being marketed, the "laser cut stainless steel filter," which we're told is "good for the life of your vehicle."

These filters typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. They typically have 30-40 square inches of filter material, which is really not acceptable. A paper based element is a 3 dimensional filter - when a particle gets stuck deep in the filter element, oil can still flow around it. The stainless steel elements are 2 dimensional - when a particle gets caught, one of the holes is clogged up.

I don't see how you can assure that all the holes get cleared out when you clean these. Certainly simply soaking the filter in kerosene is not going to release particles that have been jammed into a hole at 60psi. Blowing the filter out with air sounds good, but a motorcycle filter is too small to let an air hose inside

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Considered it. See the earlier thread on TT. Here is what was said by b king "The micron rating on a paper type filter will be much higher than a stainless, because there is a limit to the size of the holes that can be drilled or punched into the mesh sides of the stainless filter.

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Superior Filtration:

This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. Unlike glued paper filters, the FLO Oil Filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees.

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I don't see how you can assure that all the holes get cleared out when you clean these. Certainly simply soaking the filter in kerosene is not going to release particles that have been jammed into a hole at 60psi. Blowing the filter out with air sounds good, but a motorcycle filter is too small to let an air hose inside
I put a glove on. Then pick it up with the rubber seal side up, and my index finger firmly blocking the hole. Then I swish it around for about a minute in some diesel fuel. This is real easy, and I can see fine particles and grey discoloring of the diesel fuel. Then I get some brake cleaner in a spray can with straw hose attached and I blow any more (invisible) muck off from the inside out.

These days I can tell just by the appearance that it is clean. Very early days, before reinstalling I would pour clear diesel through it in various paths and watch how easy it goes through. I think a moderately dirty SS filter flows way better than a new paper filter. So I don't care if the thing ain't totally clean.

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pay the extra money and get a scotts filter...filters to 25 microns consistently and will last the life of all your bikes

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pay the extra money and get a scotts filter...filters to 25 microns consistently and will last the life of all your bikes

Scotts is definitely a great product....strait from the web-site..."Superior Filtration:

This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Most good paper filters will pass particles in the 90 to 95 micron range, and some tested, as much as 300 microns. Sand is about 125 microns and a white blood cell approximately 25 microns. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns "absolute", which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. The pleat seam is welded, able to withstand up to 600 degrees in our filter, not glued, like paper filters."

Still catches 35 microns like the PC Flo for about half the price....

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I have a PC flo (I think thats what it was) and it actually looked fine and worked fine but i'm just a little paranoid of some kind of failure. And brake clean cleans them just fine.

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I have a Scotts that just finished it´s 5´th season. 200 hours. No problems.

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pay the extra money and get a scotts filter...filters to 25 microns consistently and will last the life of all your bikes

Our filters actually filter down to 35 microns absolute, meaning htey will let nothing bigger than 35 microns pass through. They do filter down lower than that but at an inconsistant rate. Paper filters are very inconsistant and do not have an absolute rating. Many times you will see an advertisement for a paper filter and they say it wil filter "down to 10 microns" but they do not tell you the largest micron it will pass through. Do to the inconsistant nature of paper every paper filter will test different, even if it is the same part number. When we sent the OEM CRF Honda filter out for testing it was one of the worst we had ever seen. Average particulate it would catch was 65 microns, largest it would pass through was 300 microns and smallest it would catch was in the 20-25 micron range. Again, if we had sent several of the OEM filters out each one would have tested different. Scotts filters are American made and manufactured in Colorado by K&P engineering.

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And brake clean cleans them just fine.

How can you tell? Do you send it out for microscopic or gravimetric analysis? The naked eye cannot even see 30um micron so how do you know its clean?. The diameter of the human hair is about 100um.

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Our filters actually filter down to 35 microns absolute, meaning htey will let nothing bigger than 35 microns pass through. .

What if its 30um in diameter and a 100um in length? Very little is absolute in the filtration world especially a new filter. Filters achieve a great efficacy the more they build up contaminate.

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How can you tell? Do you send it out for microscopic or gravimetric analysis? The naked eye cannot even see 30um micron so how do you know its clean?. The diameter of the human hair is about 100um.

well obvioulsy no, if something were lodge itself in there real tight its not gonna come out with brake clean or ultrasonic unless it was cleaned for 10hrs. But if it was packing up with invisible things I suppose one would have oil pressure problems after 300hrs which hasn't been a problem that I'm aware of. I'd also wonder what is going on inside the engine of said problem.

If brake clean and shop air can't get it out it can stay in there for all I care because if it were a paper filter it would have passed on through if not immediately, eventually.

Although I do like the ultrasonic cleaning idea...I have one for rifle cases and might just have to get a spare filter and put the dirty one in it....cheaper than brake clean

Edited by tech24

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How can you tell? Do you send it out for microscopic or gravimetric analysis? The naked eye cannot even see 30um micron so how do you know its clean?
I do two things. 1. Look at it. IMO, the texture or shade difference is easy to see. 2. I can pour clean oil through it and make a subjective decision on it.

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What if its 30um in diameter and a 100um in length? Very little is absolute in the filtration world especially a new filter.
In my unprofessional opinion, that's the best argument for a paper filter. The long skinny particle. But only some careful testing could confirm that.

If enlarged many times, I visualize a mesh filter like a very large surface area fine flyscreen. And a paper filter much like a sponge air filter, but with less sticky surface effect.

Filters achieve a great efficacy the more they build up contaminate.
Perhaps that point favors the mesh filter. Since the more the finer paper sections clog up with particles, then I visualize much more dirty oil flow goes through the huge 100 to 300 micron gaps. Which is why I never liked leaving a paper filter in for too long (I think they effectively "bypass" too soon), but with a mesh filter I dont care to much about how long it stays in since clogging it real bad is not going to happen.

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I ordered a PC FLO filter (Sticker said it would fit '06-'11 KX450F) and compared it to the stock oil filter (paper). I noticed the stock filter had a little beveled edge for the spring (so it would fit snug?). The PC FLO did not have the beveled edge (just looked strait), but otherwise looked the same. I want to install the PC FLO on my bike, but I'm unsure as to whether or not it should match up "ok." Any help/ experience or clarification would be great. Did they change the oil filter from '11 to '12, or should I be ok?

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