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Heated vest and grips

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I already have heated grips, which I love:ride:. Does anyone have Heated grips and a vest. I have already changed my taillight and turn signals to LED which consume less power. A heated vest uses about 2.5 -2.8 amps. I'm not sure if my grips use 15 watts each side or 15 watts total. I figure this is about a 4 to 5 amp draw or 50 to 60 watts. I've also read a stock drz has about 60 watts of reserve. I save about 4 watts with the taillight. If I switched to the trailtech X2 (as a side not how much lighter is the 28 oz. X2 then a stock headlight.:smashpc:) I could run it on 35 watts mode saving another 15 watts.

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I already have heated grips, which I love:ride:. Does anyone have Heated grips and a vest. I have already changed my taillight and turn signals to LED which consume less power. A heated vest uses about 2.5 -2.8 amps. I'm not sure if my grips use 15 watts each side or 15 watts total. I figure this is about a 4 to 5 amp draw or 50 to 60 watts. I've also read a stock drz has about 60 watts of reserve. I save about 4 watts with the taillight. If I switched to the trailtech X2 (as a side not how much lighter is the 28 oz. X2 then a stock headlight.:smashpc:) I could run it on 35 watts mode saving another 15 watts.

I own two heated vest, both draw more than 2.8 AMPs.. so I'd suggest you double check your wattage draw with your planed vest.

I know on my DZ I cannot run a heated vest, and a head light, and grip heaters.. You situation may differ.

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I cant answer the electrical question but if you find out it woulnt work maybe try a goose down vest as a mid layer . Goose down creates cozy warmth and drys fast.

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Good Idea DLconaDRZ. One Cheap trick I learned riding along the cold northshore of Lake Superior is to fill up water bottles with straight water from a coffee machine at gas stations. The Hot water in your inside pocket will last long enough to get to the next gas station. But that, is just to keep you from getting miserable.

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I run both. Hot Grips are 30 - 35 watts for the pair (2.5 -3 amps @ 12) and Gerbings heated jacket liner is 77 watts (6.4 amps at 12v). These are the numbers I pulled from thier web site.

Here's what I understand:

DRZ 400 Output = 200w @ 5000 RPM

Low beam = 55

Tail light = 5

These two are a constant, 60 watts all the time. Add in what ever the other systems are using (ignition, minimal for the LEDs, etc) and I'm guessing your looking at another 10 watts or so. I'm not sure on that, I never could find any hard figures. So, I estimated that during crusing (at 5000 RPM) you are looking at 70 watts. This leaves you 130 watts "in the bank".

Now when you brake, you withdrawl 21 watts, leaving you with 109 watts. When you use your turn signal, you withdrawl 42 watts (21 x 2 signals) leaving you with 88 watts but only when the light is lit (it flashes). So if you brake with turn signals you are down to 67 watts while all elements are lit. Of course during braking and turning, you probably arn't turing 5000 RPM so your stator output is less the 200 watts.

Now that all said, chances are slim that you are going to run your heated gear at full blast. Mine get so hot that it would be very uncomfortable to hold the grip. The jacket liner would cook you in no time. I'm guessing I never go over about 70% on mine (both have variable controllers). So that would be around 80 watts combined at my maximum consumption for the heated gear. Crusing at 70% still leaves me with 60 watts "in the bank".

Now I use mine to commute. Fortyfive minutes and typical highway speeds. As soon as I take my downtown exit, I turn them both off. This allows for the extra draw of the brake light, turn signals, and occaisional horn beep without the burden of keeping the heated gear running.

No issues for me. I also keep it on a battery tender when I'm not riding. Since you've converted to LED for your brake, tail, and turn signals, I really don't see it being a problem for you either. When you're close to your destination, shut off the heat and allow the system to "top off" the battery. If you are wearing a decent jacket and gloves, they will retain the heat for a good bit.

If this logic is wrong, someone please correct me. I'm certainly no electrical engineer, but based on my limited knowledge, research, and real world tests, the above makes sense to me.

WGW

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Your math is probably close to correct but the unknown here is the 200 watts. Nobody I know really knows if that figure is correct or under what conditions 200 watts is produced.

Here is what I do know. An automobile alternator is rated for peak power delivery. It will not deliver peak for more than a short time. It would over heat. A typical automobile alternator rated 100 amps will deliver something like 60 amps continuous. So I'm suspecting the same may be true of the DRZ alternator. In other words I would not put a lot of faith in the 200 watts output.

Another feature of the permanent magnet rotor alternator used on most motorcycles is the alternator is sized close to the load because it is not so easy to dial back the output. So again, don't expect a lot of reserve power.

I tend to think 60 watts of added load is lose to the max that can be added. If you can add accessories and keep the battery charged, that is the best proof of what you can add.

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I have an idiot light for voltage, and when I have the heated grips on and head light the voltage isn't at full charge, w/ heated grips only i get a full charge. I run one or the other but not both as i don't want to over work the Ricky Stator. Don't think you can get away with grips and a vest. Your stator will be working overtime.

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I have intimate knowledge regarding stators and stator failures. With Nobles wisdom I have been able to resurrect my bikes electrical system three times now. The first due to the PO's inept wiring which caused a wiring harness fire. The second due to stator windings burning (probably from running too many electronics). And the third due to the bolts that hold the stator in place backing out allowing the stator to wobble in the case(red locktite is now my best friend).

The second failure was undoubtedly due to running too many electronics, the following gadgets are what I had on at the time of failure.

Garmin 276c

Hot Grips

Gerbing Heated Vest

Stock lighting

After that particular failure I did the following.

1. Replaced the stator

2. Changed all lighting (less the head lamp) to LED lighting

3. Installed a voltmeter on the bike

4. Rewired my headlamp so that I have low beam only. I used the stock switch and when I flip to what used to be high beam the light goes off completely. I ride a lot gravel and one and two track. There is really no need for a head lamp when I ride these. When I hit the tarmac I flip the switch to low beam. Voila' I'm legal again.

The net result I am not over budget when I run my electronics thus I am not overtaxing my charging system. Also, I ditched the heated vest (for this bike) and instead wear quality mid layers as well as high tech long johns when needed.

If you don't mind running your head lamp on high beam when it's on, all you need to do (and still utilize the stock switch) is unplug the head lamp plug, turn it 180* and plug it back in. The result is that your headlamp is completely off when the switch is on low beam. However when the switch is placed in the high beam position it works.

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I have used gerbing heated gloves and jacket liner commuting into NYC from LI for an entire winter-and I found it worked for me as long as I paid attention to my rmp's and regulated my glove and liner using the Dual heat troller. I never left either on max too long if my hands got chilly I turned the gloves up if I got cold I turned the jacket liner up. No way would I leave both on max and I made sure when I exited the highway or slowed in traffic to turn the stuff off.It's all about regulating your heat. Really on the highway is where it works best(hignRmp/s) and that's where you need it form all the cold windblast. I lost my parking spot so now I'm reading mY kindle on th Long Island railroad and Making the trip only once a week when I can scope out some decent parling.

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I run heated grips with "oven mitts" over the hand guards, and I wear a set of Carhart coverall's.....and I never have a problem with either electrical output or warmth!

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I run heated grips with "oven mitts" over the hand guards, and I wear a set of Carhart coverall's.....and I never have a problem with either electrical output or warmth!

What are these "oven mitts?" Do you have a link to them? Will they fit over my aluminum handguards? Are they the same thing they sell for ATV's or do you really wear oven mitts. Heated grips just aren't enough sometimes.

I have snow pants I wear when temp gets into the 30's. My cousin has a down vest I'm going to try with the snow pants. I am also going to try some of those heat pads that chemically react and last a few hours. I'm going on a 200 mile trip in February if the weather is okay (meaning not snowing). Trying to see if its possible.

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If you are still concerned about running a jacket liner through your bike, Gerbings also has self contained battery operated gear. It uses a 7v lithium-ion battery. I have no experience with it, but it is kind of neat because you can still run heat even when you are off the bike.

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They have the 18 hr ones

http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hand-Body-Warmer-Count/dp/B0007ZF4Q8

Ive become a big fan of Polypropelene Base layer head to toe coverage.

Your outer layer being completely windproof is very important .

That is a good ways to go in the cold , run some tape round your visor cracks if you feel the air cutting in . If you feel air coming in anywhere stop and fix it , duct tape it if you have to . Frost bite can happen very quickly. Many oldtimers used to stick newspapers down in there jackets , anything to block the air from getting in and sucking the heat out . You definetly want gauntlet gloves running up over your sleeve, if gloves are what your using.

Im still using the first gear Kathmandu jacket and pants for an outer layer.

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They have the 18 hr ones

http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hand-Body-Warmer-Count/dp/B0007ZF4Q8

Ive become a big fan of Polypropelene Base layer head to toe coverage.

Your outer layer being completely windproof is very important .

That is a good ways to go in the cold , run some tape round your visor cracks if you feel the air cutting in . If you feel air coming in anywhere stop and fix it , duct tape it if you have to . Frost bite can happen very quickly. Many oldtimers used to stick newspapers down in there jackets , anything to block the air from getting in and sucking the heat out . You definetly want gauntlet gloves running up over your sleeve, if gloves are what your using.

Im still using the first gear Kathmandu jacket and pants for an outer layer.

Thanks for the Link. 18hours may be longer than I need but you wouldn't have to worry about being in a hurry. Duct tape is a good Idea. I could use it around my ankles. Right now we are having record heat for October, so I have to wait to try some experimenting.

If you are still concerned about running a jacket liner through your bike, Gerbings also has self contained battery operated gear. It uses a 7v lithium-ion battery. I have no experience with it, but it is kind of neat because you can still run heat even when you are off the bike.

I've also seen these. The use less power so I'm suspicious. If I'm going to front the money for a heated jacket I want to be really toasty. I should probably look as some reviews of these.

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Last year I rode to work every day unless there was ice. I bought some Tusk hand mitts for $9.99 from Rocky Mountain, the best $10 bucks I have spent on any gear.

IMAG0720m.jpg

Along with the grip heaters, these kept the hands nice and warm. I also bought some Air Force ECW (extreme cold weather) flight pants on eBay, sprayed them with some waterproofing and NEVER felt the cold. I just use layers for upper body with a good jacket that keeps the wind out. I ride an hour each way to work and never saw the need for a heated vest. If I was riding a longer distance, maybe it could be justified for my use.

I just finished making a new headlight set-up with a little more wind protection.

IMAG0822c.jpg

The light housings have HID projectors inside, more light and less drain on the charging system... Once I put the Tusk covers back on, I'm ready for winter...

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Last year I rode to work every day unless there was ice. I bought some Tusk hand mitts for $9.99 from Rocky Mountain, the best $10 bucks I have spent on any gear.

This is there new price "Our price: $15.99" Which really is still a good price. It doesn't say if they will work with Aluminum handguards. What do you think? I also want to point out that I live in Minnesota so are winters are a bit colder. Although I do remember being in Georgia one time and it was snowing and another time when there was at least an inch of shear ice on the interstate. Unfortunately you guys don't salt your roads. Fortunately for you, salt is really hard on the DRZ's.

Nice light housing. I've thought about the same kind of thing but I want to use LED's when they go down in price. Make sure you post your picture with SMrookie's thread " Let's see your custom part(s) for your DR-Z, self-made or bought " It's one of my favorite threads.

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I just picked up the First Gear heated jacket liner, gloves, and dual portable heat troller. Got it all for under $200!!! I plan on doing the free power mod(waiting for new subframe to do all at once) Im thinking I can get away with just adjusting the temperature controls for each. Most of the time I wont even have the jacket liner turned on.

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I just picked up the First Gear heated jacket liner, gloves, and dual portable heat troller. Got it all for under $200!!! I plan on doing the free power mod(waiting for new subframe to do all at once) Im thinking I can get away with just adjusting the temperature controls for each. Most of the time I wont even have the jacket liner turned on.

Let us know how it works out. Have you thought about getting a voltage meter? That way you will know how far you can push it.

I'm considering replacing my stock headlight with two LED lights. One LED would use about 10 watts. That would give my an extra 40 watts to use on a jacket. The down side is that this heated jacket is getting expensive.

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If you go the electric route, make sure your spend the money for good gear. The last thing you want is for it to fail when you are depending on it to stay warm. Both my jacket liner and grips have a lifetime warranty. Doesn't mean they won't fail, but at least the company has enough faith in their product to replace it for free if the elements do fail.

WGW

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It finally got cold enough today to do some testing, 38 to 40 degrees. I rode 11 miles to work. I used DLconaDRZ's advice about the goose down vest, mostly because my cousins was in my closet. I wore an insolated riding jacket over it and a pair of Moose Expedition pants. The vest had an isolated collar and with its extra mass it really kept the wind out and my body heat in. When its colder I can still add my windshield, big overall snowpants, and a scarf or something around the neck (any suggestions of what works good).

I also remembered this morning that drafting behind an SUV also helps with the wind. I like the SUV's because I can see through their windows.

On the topic of saving electrical juice I saw these on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-10-Watt-Bright-Warm-White-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-900LM-/220864102388?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336c86bff4

I hope Trail Tech uses these LED's sometime soon. They use very little power and are simpler and cheaper then HID lights. Check out some of the comparisons on youtube.

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