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complete rebuild but will not start???

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I have just finished rebuilding my 2006 ktm 250 sx-f.

first time on rebuilding a bike engine.

I have followed the manual step by step.

there is compression.

carb settings were not touched from when bike was running before rebuild.

old fuel drained and fresh fuel used.

plug is sparking.

I have kicked and kicked good knows how many times and just will not bang into life.

get a bang from the excess fuel that is not getting burnt been thrown out the exhaust.

I have also tried bump starting in 1st and 2nd gear, little bit of action but not enough.

I have the lobes of camshafts pointing up when set D.T.C. according to ktm manual however i have read else where that the cam lobes should be facing down?

any advise anyone?

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Cams have lines on the gears, these must face each other. Crank must be locked with the locking screw when you see the groove in the crank.

There is no other method. TDC by looking at the piston goig to top is no use, you have to shine a flashlight up the hole and look for the machined groove, then lock with the screw.

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Take the rag out from your carborator. :smashpc: Really.. first time I did engine rebuilding. I did everything by the book. Everything was just like it should be. Trying to kick start it, trying to bump start it. Nothing works.. sound was a bit wierd. Then I started to take it down piece by piece. Took of the air filter.. and found a rag from the carb. You know, one that you cover your carb from dust and dirt while it is not in the bike and ready to race. 👍

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Cams have lines on the gears, these must face each other. Crank must be locked with the locking screw when you see the groove in the crank.

There is no other method. TDC by looking at the piston goig to top is no use, you have to shine a flashlight up the hole and look for the machined groove, then lock with the screw.

I agree - you have to confirm that the timing was set correctly! Was the cam chain tensioner set and released per the manual? What torque value did you use for the cam bridge? I'm not sure about the newer manuals, but the older ones state 18 Nm. This is way too tight and can cause the cams to seize. 12 to 13 Nm seems to be the generally accepted value. Before releasing the tensioner make sure the cams can rotate freely within the slack of the chain.

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T.D.C. has been set by matchin mark on timing valve twin wheel with 2 marks on primary gear. acorrding to ktm manual this is TDC. i have then set cams with both marks pointing inwards level with the bridge of cam assembly. can any one confirm this is correct? i have took photos aswell if this would help?

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