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Making my 04 a single track crawler.....

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I have a 04" that I recently boiled over for the first time and now have decided to dial it in all the way for the type of offroad/ single track riding I love... I know this machine is a handful in really slow section were as my old DRZ400 would excell as if were a trials bike....lol

I have all obvious stuff like , 22 degree triples , offroad skid plate , hand guards, shark fin, boil over resevore ....... Now it's time for tranny gears , fly wheel and maybee cam....... I would also like to install cooling fans ....

Any suggestion on this build would be great, I really can't go out and buy a new bike ....... The new Bergs are nice but I think I can make my Crf a tame monster too..... Thanks for input

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Put a heavy flywheel in it. That will make a big difference.

Add a wide ratio gear set (makes the upper gears tall), and then you can gear it down (small front sprocket, large rear sprocket) so first really crawls.

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I had an 04 YZ 450 that i converted to a woods bike and to agree with daddyo my weighted flywheel probably made the biggest difference....that bike also had some pretty serious flame out issues when lugging around and chopping the throttle so dial in that FCR if its not allready

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I'm right in the middle of making up a homemade cooling fan for my '03 CRF450.

I already have heavier trail tech flywheel to go with a trail tech lighting stator, originally just AC with regulator for lights, but have DC rectifier/regulator coming to run 12v fan.

Making my own battery by soldering 10 AAA NIMH batteries ($5.49 ebay) together in series. I was going to go with a 33000uF capacitor ($7) instead, but since I do occasional night riding, battery will benefit lights too.

Using a computer case fan commonly referred to in other posts as being good for this application, high CFM's. Vantec Tornado 92mm TD9238H ($13 newegg).

Most people seem to go with handlebar switch, but I really want full automation. My first plan was to plumb in a fluid temp switch into the radiator hose. But now have decided to first try a temperature probe switch epoxied to the radiator fins along with a relay (got free from buddy, fluid temp switch would have been $15 from autoparts store plus plumbing costs).

Most of the parts are in shipping now, so we'll see how it turns out. :smashpc:

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Thank you very much fellows ! Everything I needed to here ! Cheers ! I will post a pic in future on my cooling fans...

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I have decided to go full battery power ! Battery is 3s 11.1v 20-30c (160amps continuous) 8000mah , it's extremely powerful and have made a carbon fiber handlebar mounted battery tray adjustable to fit any 3-4s lipo pack.... The lipos I have are 400mah smaller than the biggest I could get from Hobby King and half the price of 8400mah pack ... They were $43 each+shipping I have 2....

Trail Tech 35oz flywheel is installed and so far by lugging it in the field across my street it seems to be way more less likely to stall and smoother power delivery ! .... grabbed TTO inline radiator temp gauge and made a CF clutch perch mount for it also..

Bought 2 800 lume LED lights from TT one helmet mount and one on the bike. I used carbon fiber for bikes light mount and mounted it to the existing right upper fork clamp bolts.... Came out very well ! My battery should power one light for 7.3 hours on high .

I am waiting for a cooling fan , I bought the KTM kit but it was heavy in comparison to a CPU fan and seemed like it shouldn't go on a Honda so I took it back ... Lol. I found the 253 cfm Delta fan that would draw 4 amps !! and the 210 cfm that drew 2.7 amp and eyeballed the 190 cfm at 2 amps.... I ended up ordering a 90 cfm that used .9 amps . Seems 12v CPU fans loose there efficientcy after 190 cfm... I will try the 90 cfm and see how it goes...

Link to picks....http://m1208.photobucket.com/albums/rearwheelin?newest=1

:busted::busted:

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FYI... 120mm by 38mm 90 CPU fan is good on width but the 38mm depth is too much and hits frame on my 04" , I found a 120mm by 25mm deep 150 cfm Delta ... The 90 cfm seemed like it pushed enouph air but I was hopeing for more....

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heaviest flywheel, slow throttle, and skim the top of the piston to lower compression, quiet (corked) exhaust. Lower compression also solves a lot of the over heating problems.

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with the money your spending, get a Recluse expCORE. I had thought for some time "autocrutches" were only for pansies, and riders that didn't know how to ride.. NOT the case. I am in total awe after my best ever A class harescramble finish this past weekend (2nd). I use the less expensive exp, but for your use, get the more expensive full kit that will keep the clutch cooler.

why not just get an "X" model, lights.. i think it has the wider trans, tamer cam.. WAY less work.

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with the money your spending, get a Recluse expCORE. I had thought for some time "autocrutches" were only for pansies, and riders that didn't know how to ride.. NOT the case. I am in total awe after my best ever A class harescramble finish this past weekend (2nd). I use the less expensive exp, but for your use, get the more expensive full kit that will keep the clutch cooler.

why not just get an "X" model, lights.. i think it has the wider trans, tamer cam.. WAY less work.

Ha ha ha ! I hear you ! The short answer is it's to hard getting rid of the best bike I have ever owned ! It has less than 50 hrs on it and has been paid for since 04"... Was originally a Supermoto bike and I had my DRZ for trails ......

I eyeballed the X hard and decided a new one would end up costing around 10k after I excessorized it and since I don't have that kind of cash I decided to make what I have work better . I spent $20 for black CF and already had the colored, the rest is cheap as far as tooling I already had everything needed as I make custom cf mounts and turn fins ect .. for Fast Electric model boats.

It's somewhere around $1000 for what I am doing including a left only Fluidyne rad , I have decided not to get the trans because first gear stays stock and will never have the X first gear... I did look into the recluse and did not like how the bike rolled with engine off in gear ! I have found myself way too many times standing on the high side of my bike with engine off engaging my clutch as a rear brake while going down something very steep , technical and loose..... A recluse clutch, from what I understand will take that control away from me , so that's a no go.. In the end I won't have electric start or the wide ratio but that's ok.... She will have a better power to weight ratio atleast and probably 30 lbs lighter ! I road a uncorked 05" X after starting this post and wasn't thrilled on it's engine performance...

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FYI... 120mm by 38mm 90 CPU fan is good on width but the 38mm depth is too much and hits frame on my 04" , I found a 120mm by 25mm deep 150 cfm Delta ... The 90 cfm seemed like it pushed enouph air but I was hopeing for more....

It should PULL air thru the radiator not Push it forward , it will aid in cooling to pull the air thru , reverse the fan so it pulls air thru , and you will be much happier !

I run 13/51 on gearing for trails on my 02 and dont have any issues , i also have a 13oz flywheel weight and a CRF250X overflow tank and a 3.2 IMS gas tank . and a 1.6 radiator cap (a must) i dont use a fan and so far have not had any heating issues , even in tight single track , the bike works pretty good , though i like the E-Start on my 450X and i do have a (Spal) cooling fan on it (same brand as the KTM fan), the R starts easily in 1-2 kicks so its not a issue if i do stall it , and its 50+ lbs lighter than my X

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It should PULL air thru the radiator not Push it forward , it will aid in cooling to pull the air thru , reverse the fan so it pulls air thru , and you will be much happier !

I run 13/51 on gearing for trails on my 02 and dont have any issues , i also have a 13oz flywheel weight and a CRF250X overflow tank and a 3.2 IMS gas tank . and a 1.6 radiator cap (a must) i dont use a fan and so far have not had any heating issues , even in tight single track , the bike works pretty good , though i like the E-Start on my 450X and i do have a (Spal) cooling fan on it (same brand as the KTM fan), the R starts easily in 1-2 kicks so its not a issue if i do stall it , and its 50+ lbs lighter than my X

Sorry I should have said pull... I had fan on radiator pulling on my test , it seemed ok for getting the job done..... But the 120mm cage was a little thick to give rad movement it sat against frame....I really have only ever had one boil over with it and there have been many times it didn't boil and really suprized me ! I still have the stock cap and have run heavier caps on different bikes in the past to increase boiling point. I have always been pretty good on not stalling out and keeping her moving and looking for the nice breeze at the top of a hill to park into to cool things down while waiting on buddies.... The particular instance on the boil over was on a black diamond ( California term for hazardous) that started out at 3000 elev. and within 1.5 miles I stopped at 4500 elev, was 1st gear all the way with no cool down declines and was handlebar stop twisty riding my clutch about 30% of the time with a 14t 50t gearing.... Mainly looking forward to not being in such a rush to find cool down spots and feel pressure to keep her moving ..... can just turn on the fan ! :busted:

Edited by Rearwheelin
Clarify

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the recluse does not take any control away from you. With the exp or expCORE your clutch lever feels totally stock. You have engine brakng, you have everything you had before EXCEPT the ability to bump start the bike.. who cares! you won't ever stall the bike again !

Not for nothin, but i do very well in the A class harescrambles. i thought like you .. (wrongly) that a Recluse clutch was for pansies. UNTIL, i found out almost EVERY AA rider and A rider had one.. I am SO IMPRESSED with this friggin thing, i got a SECOND ONE for my 04. I simply do not enjoy riding the 04 as much as my 08 as it did not have a REcluse. Your TOTALLY off base with your thinking if you don't think it will HELP/MAKE BETTER your trail riding. Trust me on this.

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You don`t need a fan, just buy the other rad. for you bike , and you`ll be good. I bout some cheaper ones , and have had on promblems with them ,and no over heating.

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It should PULL air thru the radiator not Push it forward , it will aid in cooling to pull the air thru , reverse the fan so it pulls air thru , and you will be much happier !

I run 13/51 on gearing for trails on my 02 and dont have any issues , i also have a 13oz flywheel weight and a CRF250X overflow tank and a 3.2 IMS gas tank . and a 1.6 radiator cap (a must) i dont use a fan and so far have not had any heating issues , even in tight single track , the bike works pretty good , though i like the E-Start on my 450X and i do have a (Spal) cooling fan on it (same brand as the KTM fan), the R starts easily in 1-2 kicks so its not a issue if i do stall it , and its 50+ lbs lighter than my X

the recluse does not take any control away from you. With the exp or expCORE your clutch lever feels totally stock. You have engine brakng, you have everything you had before EXCEPT the ability to bump start the bike.. who cares! you won't ever stall the bike again !

Not for nothin, but i do very well in the A class harescrambles. i thought like you .. (wrongly) that a Recluse clutch was for pansies. UNTIL, i found out almost EVERY AA rider and A rider had one.. I am SO IMPRESSED with this friggin thing, i got a SECOND ONE for my 04. I simply do not enjoy riding the 04 as much as my 08 as it did not have a REcluse. Your TOTALLY off base with your thinking if you don't think it will HELP/MAKE BETTER your trail riding. Trust me on this.

No no not for panzies... Ha ha... I happen to believe the recluse would benefit a rider on many levels ! What I am saying is I will no longer be able to disengage my clutch to allow my rear wheel to roll when engine is off , in gear and walking my bike down something way to dangerous for me to ride, I will no longer be able to engage my clutch to lock up the back wheel like brakes ! I do not like using my front brake only when doing this , the back end will push or come around on you and I don't like to unnessisarily drop my bike..... Not hateing on the recluse by no means just saying it's not for me. I do like to park where I can simply roll my bike a bitto a decline and jump start it too .... it's not for me..... I think they are great tools though !:busted:

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You don`t need a fan, just buy the other rad. for you bike , and you`ll be good. I bout some cheaper ones , and have had on promblems with them ,and no over heating.

Were I ride it gets hot.... Way more than Michigan brother ! Lol The way I see it if the rocks radiat 100+ degree heat and I am at a crawl the radiators will only by me a few more seconds to start moving again so if I have a fan by turning it on will take a load of worries off my chest thinking about my stuff building heat ! I guess it's psychological for me ha ha...........

I like to go up stuff most will prefer or will only go down so from my personal expieriance a fan will benefit my bikes durability !

Edited by Rearwheelin

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Sorry I should have said pull... I had fan on radiator pulling on my test , it seemed ok for getting the job done..... But the 120mm cage was a little thick to give rad movement it sat against frame....I really have only ever had one boil over with it and there have been many times it didn't boil and really suprized me ! I still have the stock cap and have run heavier caps on different bikes in the past to increase boiling point. I have always been pretty good on not stalling out and keeping her moving and looking for the nice breeze at the top of a hill to park into to cool things down while waiting on buddies.... The particular instance on the boil over was on a black diamond ( California term for hazardous) that started out at 3000 elev. and within 1.5 miles I stopped at 4500 elev, was 1st gear all the way with no cool down declines and was handlebar stop twisty riding my clutch about 30% of the time with a 14t 50t gearing.... Mainly looking forward to not being in such a rush to find cool down spots and feel pressure to keep her moving ..... can just turn on the fan ! :busted:

14/50 is kinda tall gearing for trail riding , not so much if the trail is faster , BUT , if you are in tight places where you have to work the clutch a lot (either because its tight or because of the taller gearing) , the bike will overheat easier , especially given that working/slipping the clutch because of the taller gearing , is going to make the bike run hotter , so its kind of like wearing a winter jacket in the summer , you wont get burnt but your going to sweat your ass off !

And we call real technical trails Black Diamond here and in Idaho as well , there are some trails i have been on when i lived in Idaho , that are like the one you describe or worse , we even had double black diamonds there , i have not done enough exploring here yet to see the diversity of the trails here so i cant comment on them , as i have mainly been riding the MX tracks for the most part this year

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No no not for panzies... Ha ha... I happen to believe the recluse would benefit a rider on many levels ! What I am saying is I will no longer be able to disengage my clutch to allow my rear wheel to roll when engine is off , in gear and walking my bike down something way to dangerous for me to ride, I will no longer be able to engage my clutch to lock up the back wheel like brakes ! I do not like using my front brake only when doing this , the back end will push or come around on you and I don't like to unnessisarily drop my bike..... Not hateing on the recluse by no means just saying it's not for me. I do like to park where I can simply roll my bike a bitto a decline and jump start it too .... it's not for me..... I think they are great tools though !:busted:

so you would forgo the amazing benefits and ease of being able to crawl over all types of stuff 99% of the time.. so you could bump start your bike (instead of just kick start it) 1% of the time. Your logic is flawed, but it's YOUR bike. You know what you want but your missing out.. BIG time.

And the clutch WILL disengage and allow you to push your bike around. I'm not sure who told you it wont.. You can not bump start, that that's the ONLY negative i see to what your doing. Personally? considering the fact it WON'T always bump start (rear wheel just slides on anything but ideal situation).. your down to HALF%

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14/50 is kinda tall gearing for trail riding , not so much if the trail is faster , BUT , if you are in tight places where you have to work the clutch a lot (either because its tight or because of the taller gearing) , the bike will overheat easier , especially given that working/slipping the clutch because of the taller gearing , is going to make the bike run hotter , so its kind of like wearing a winter jacket in the summer , you wont get burnt but your going to sweat your ass off !

And we call real technical trails Black Diamond here and in Idaho as well , there are some trails i have been on when i lived in Idaho , that are like the one you describe or worse , we even had double black diamonds there , i have not done enough exploring here yet to see the diversity of the trails here so i cant comment on them , as i have mainly been riding the MX tracks for the most part this year

I agree the 14 50 is tall for really tight stuff.... I have my stock 13 that have used with the 51 and works way better.... I agree an your clutch slippage=more heat too... Engine isn't running efficiently when not engaged ! I have road up a double diamond before , we have them here too ! Everyone turned around and I was the only one to make it , they use to heli people out who would drop off cliff... Some day I will get that trail on helmet cam , if it's not closed :busted:....... Nice to talk with people on hear who speak same moto language !:busted: Edited by Rearwheelin
Rear sprocket is 51

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