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KX 65 Clutch

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Has anyone ever saw the need to add additional plates in a KX 65 clutch.

Several weeks ago we lost clutch at Budds Creek. Replaced the OEM clutch with EBC. The new clutch slipped immediatety. Ordered OEM clutch and installed. Lasted approx. two hours.

Removed clutch cover to inspect. Clutch slipping by hand. Removed clutch plates and put the clutch hub, clutch wheel, spring plate and springs all together. With in put together this way, I can slip the combination of 5 friction plates and 4 steel plates in the space were the combo of plates should be.

Clutch plates and friction plates show no signs of ware.

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Has anyone ever saw the need to add additional plates in a KX 65 clutch.

Several weeks ago we lost clutch at Budds Creek. Replaced the OEM clutch with EBC. The new clutch slipped immediatety. Ordered OEM clutch and installed. Lasted approx. two hours.

Removed clutch cover to inspect. Clutch slipping by hand. Removed clutch plates and put the clutch hub, clutch wheel, spring plate and springs all together. With in put together this way, I can slip the combination of 5 friction plates and 4 steel plates in the space were the combo of plates should be.

Clutch plates and friction plates show no signs of ware.

Maybe it's just me but I don't really understand what you're saying.

A few questions:

1. Did you replace both steel and friction? Steel plates won't wear much but they will get discolored.

2. Did you replace springs?

3. How's the clutch adjustment at the lever?

4. How long did the plates last that you replaced initially?

5. Any play in the outer clutch basket?

6. How hard does he/she ride?

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1) I replaced all plates

2) Replaced springs

3) Have no adjustment left.

4) Forty-Four hours. It was the original clutch. The bike is a 2009 that I bought new. Hardly rode until this year. My son is pretty fast and really uses the clutch.

5) Not sure I understand your question. With the cover pulled and the clutch still in place, I can spin the clutch wheel causing the transmission to turn and hence the rear wheel. If the bike is in gear, the rear wheel turns, engine crank isn't turning at this point. Correct me if I wrong but this is when the clutch should be completely engaged and turning the clutch wheel would also turn the clutch housing and engine. I pulled the the entire clutch basket, the plates move easily. I then removed the clutch plates and put the basket back together without the plates. I don't have a set of micrometers to measure the total thickness of all clutch plates but they easily fit in the gap between face of clutch hub and face of clutch wheel. What I thinks is happening is that the clutch wheel is bottoming out against cluthc.

fiche_section_detail.asp?section=904246&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2009&fveh=248666) Rides hard, really uses clutch in corners.

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Could you have possibly missed either one of the washers (I've done it before on KX85) 92022 in the diagram you referenced? It just seems that if after you changed the original out all this started happening? Sometimes the washer sticks to the basket when removing then falls off later.

As far as play at the lever I meant are you leaving a nickel's worth of free play between the lever and housing at the lever? If not you could be wearing the plates quickly.

It may be he's just feathering the clutch too much, I know we went through clutches like crazy with my oldest. Took a lot of work but much better now:banana:

That's about all I have. We never had clutch issues on our 65 but neither of my boys really rode hard until they were on 85's.

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You should have some lever adjustment. Otherwise the cable is too short and will let the clutch slip. Look for something simple, like a bad cable, cable not fully seated in adjusters, etc.

Edited by gsa102
clarification

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switch to ATF type F.........your clutch will thank you

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