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My prelim 2012 report

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I put about 1 1/2 hours of actual ride time on the bike this weekend. I'm a Vet B mx rider. After thinking about this and comparing it to my '10. By the way, my '10 was bone stock with the exception of stiffer springs front and rear, wider footpegs, twinwall bars and a twin air power flow kit. To me these are 2 completely different motors. And the handling is different somewhat. I'm just gonna list random things and if anybody has any questions I'd be more than happy to answer them.

1. Bike is much quieter than the '10. The '10 has more of a piercing exhaust

sound. I don't like the long '12 muffler and am gonna see about getting a

'10 after market exhaust custom fabricated to fit on the '12. The

mounting holes are different on the subframe. Not sure how that would

change the power delivery.

2. The '12 has a much stronger pull from the bottom than the '10 and pulls

strong on top too. The '12 has a 49T rear sprocket and I had that on my

'10. If you have good traction out of a corner or on a start. The front

will come up. Not sure, but the '10 may be better on starts with less

low end power. We'll find out this coming weekend. I'm actually gonna try

a 48T rear sprocket next saturday. I've never went down a tooth on a

sprocket always up 1. I would actually like it to be a bit smoother on the

bottom and pull the gear a little longer. If MXA says in their test the '12

doesn't have any low end then I really know they are full of it. Of course

I've thought that for a long time anyway lol.

3. Clutch seems to fade more on the '12 than the '10. Not sure why, I'm not

a clutch abuser on the 4 strokes. I used to smoke a clutch on a 125 in

about 2 or 3 hours. I'm gonna order one of the Pro X clutch rods this

week.

4. Suspension feels really good out of the box, but it's new and not broke

in yet. I like my suspension well on the stiff side. I like my rear end to be

a little high so the bike steers a little quicker. My sag is set at 98mm and I

turned the hsc on the shock 1/8 of a turn in. Rear rebound 3 slower

and front compression 2 clicks in. The bike corners a little better in ruts

than the '10. The '10 had a little tendency to want to stand up. I ran a

90/100-21 Dunlop MX71 on the '10. The '12 has a 80/100-21 MX 51.

Would the 80 over the 90 make much difference, probably not. The front

end is stable over chop and rough sections, but I thought the '10 was

pretty good too.

Overall it's a really good bike and I'm happy with it so far. Kind of wish the motor was more between the '10 and the '12. The '10 was more of a mid and top motor. The '12 is more of a bottom and mid motor. Of course, these are just my opinions.

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Now that's a good report, 10 vs 12.

:smashpc:

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Great report. Can you talk a little more about the engine power character - specifically the 10 model vs the 12 model in those mid range roll on in 3rd gear....does the 12 feel much stronger than the 10? Does the 12 go a little flat on top? Does the 12 feel more powerful overall than the 10? Also the 12 has a new rear linkage...can you feel much difference with this new linkage? Honda changed a lot on the 12 model so very curious about how the new smaller throttle body and rear linkage work.

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Great report. Can you talk a little more about the engine power character - specifically the 10 model vs the 12 model in those mid range roll on in 3rd gear....does the 12 feel much stronger than the 10? Does the 12 go a little flat on top? Does the 12 feel more powerful overall than the 10? Also the 12 has a new rear linkage...can you feel much difference with this new linkage? Honda changed a lot on the 12 model so very curious about how the new smaller throttle body and rear linkage work.

IMO, the 12 has better roll on with the bottom half of the mid range, and the 10 is better with the upper half. The 10 feels stronger on top with the bigger throttle body. The 12 feels stronger from the bottom to mid with the smaller throttle body. Does the 12 feel stronger than the 10 overall? I would say the 12 is better on tighter tracks, and the 10 is better on more open tracks. If a guy carries good speed in the corners the 10, or a combo between the two is better. When I went up 1 tooth on the rear sprocket on the 10 it gave me a power delivery I was looking for. I'm gonna test a 48 rear on the 12 saturday. Maybe that should give me the ideal power delivery and let me stretch the gears where I would like it to be. I usually run a 110/80-19 rear tire, and that's what I have on my spare wheel. So that's what I'm gonna test it with.

As for the linkage. It feels more planted in the corners, and maybe that's why it doesn't seem to want to stand up in deep rutted corners. I'm pretty happy with that. Feels a little more stable on fast choppy, roached out straights.

Again this is all my opinion with real track feel, and not a dyno. Sometimes they are totally different. Overall, I'm happy with it. With some fine tuning I will be really happy. The bike for me does not need any more bottom end. My shifting points on the track I rode yesterday were earlier than on my 10. Hope this answers some of your questions.

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Ron's dyno showed a FMF pipe helped free up some top end over the stock 12 pipe, and with the insert out helped bottom too.

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I really don't need more bottom end with this motor lol.

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I really don't need more bottom end with this motor lol.

Im willing to bet MXA tards wont agree with you.......:smashpc:

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Why not buy a '10 subframe and run an exhaust for a '10 model either stock or aftermarket that saves you the cost of custom fab work.

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I have used the old FMF from my 2010 on the 11

just need to move the bracket a little further out ,easy done with a drill and a few rivets

now i run the new RCT FMF ,much better performance

Kim

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Why not buy a '10 subframe and run an exhaust for a '10 model either stock or aftermarket that saves you the cost of custom fab work.

I would think the shorter muffler from the '10 is gonna give it more bottom end. I'm gonna test a 48T rear sprocket tomorrow and see what I think. I'm racing sunday so we'll see if I end up going with the 48T or stock 49T. I'm gonna put in the Hinson clutch springs too and see if that cuts down on some clutch fade.

I'm gonna have my ecu reprogrammed next week and put on a Yosh RS-4D as well. We'll see how that goes too.

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i keep going back and forth on my 11 with the gearing between 48/49 cant decide,i like the 48 for the longer gear but it really comes down to the track conditions.i find when dicing with other riders the 49 comes into play,the 48 for me i set my fastest laptimes on a fairly open track but they suffer easier when battling or on tighter tracks.again cant quite decide.

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what is this clutch rod you're talking about?

It's a Pro X clutch reducer rod. It's supposed to have a different expansion rate than the stock rod. In theory it's supposed to reduce clutch lever fade.

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i keep going back and forth on my 11 with the gearing between 48/49 cant decide,i like the 48 for the longer gear but it really comes down to the track conditions.i find when dicing with other riders the 49 comes into play,the 48 for me i set my fastest laptimes on a fairly open track but they suffer easier when battling or on tighter tracks.again cant quite decide.

The 10 and the 11 are basically the same bike. 49T all the way for me. It pulled good out of the corners and still stretched the gears well. The 12 is a whole different animal with the 46mm throttle body. I'll get it dialed it with some more time.

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The one thing that I noticed today during my first ride was how nonlinear the clutch was it was either all or nothing. Didn't make it easy to feather the clutch that's for sure. Otherwise it's a rocketship

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The one thing that I noticed today during my first ride was how nonlinear the clutch was it was either all or nothing. Didn't make it easy to feather the clutch that's for sure. Otherwise it's a rocketship

Today I ran a 48T rear sprocket on the 12 instead of the 49T that came on it. I was running a 110/80-19 rear tire. IMO for moto, it's way better. You still get a strong bottom end, but it's more linear and you can stretch the gears better. Again IMO, you can do better starts with the 48. I ran some stiffer Hinson clutch springs today with the Pro X clutch reducer rod and that took care of the excessive clutch play at the lever when I was doing longer motos, and I'm not a clutch abuser on a 4 stroke. It's a more linear clutch feel too. Overall I'm really happy with this setup and wouldn't run a 49T unless I was riding arenacross.

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I tried going to a 51 on the rear (with the stock 13T countershaft) of my 2012 for Hare Scrambles, and boy, did it make for a busy left foot! Waaaaay too close for gears and I was shifting non-stop. I'm now running a Rekluse z-Start Pro and am considering going to 14/51 this weekend to see how the bike works pulling the higher gearing. My 2012 has such a nice wide powerband that I think it might just work out.

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First race with 14-51 gearing was flat-out incredible. Much less shifting and really compliments the motor's wider power band. My lap times were difficult to compare to previous race due to major changes in the track length, however, I finished ahead of a few folks that were ahead of me last race. There were a few times when I found I was below the power band and had to shift or clutch, but overall, made the bike much easier to ride.

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All you need to do to fit the 10' exhaust is make up a simple bracket that moves the mount on the subframe lower. It really simple. I just used a strip of aluminum with two holes in it. One that bolts to the subframe using the existing mount and another hole on the other end that bolts to the exhaust.

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All you need to do to fit the 10' exhaust is make up a simple bracket that moves the mount on the subframe lower. It really simple. I just used a strip of aluminum with two holes in it. One that bolts to the subframe using the existing mount and another hole on the other end that bolts to the exhaust.

Yep just a small easy to make bracket. I have a FMF 12 exhaust on my 10.

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