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How screwed am I? (Engine part broke off)

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Not sure how it happened I found it in the engine case as I was getting ready to button her up. JB Weld screwed, or new engine case screwed?

kYtqX.jpg

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Considering the amount of work that would go with swapping the case out, and what you might as well do while you're in there (rebuild), I'd opt for JB Weld.

Do a good job prepping it, get any residue of any petroleum product off there, and slap it together.

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Is that the piece that holds the bottom on the cam chain guide?

You can either leave it out or fix the case, I wouldnt want it floating around when the JB weld fails to hold it on.

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Is that the piece that holds the bottom on the cam chain guide?

You can either leave it out or fix the case, I wouldnt want it floating around when the JB weld fails to hold it on.

Yes it is.

Wouldn't the bottom of the cam chain guide "slip" if I didn't put it back on? Would JB weld fail in this case?

I tried to remove the cam chain guide bolt, but it slowly started to strip and I stopped. This whole BB build is more trouble than it's worth. :smashpc:

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Is that the piece that holds the bottom on the cam chain guide?

You can either leave it out or fix the case, I wouldnt want it floating around when the JB weld fails to hold it on.

The key is the prep work. I've used JB in much more expensive things, in higher stress areas than this and no failures.

If you're worried about failure, never attempt anything, and you'll never fail.

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Will there be any damage if I leave it? Engineers put it there for a reason.

I can't get the screw off the guide without destroying it which equals more shipping + time to get it. I don't think I could do a complete job without taking it off for a good seal.

How I see it, worse case is the guide slips a few MM, cam chain comes loose and ****s up the bottom end. JB Weld it, and it comes off and grenades the bottom end.

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Also , do not touch the starter button, do not move the rear wheel while in gear, if the top end isn't destroyed already its really close !

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Look at your own pictures, the timing chain is done. Blamo

The cams, head and cylinder are off. The chain has nothing to hang on and I let it rest in the crankcase as I am replacing the gaskets today.

Also , do not touch the starter button, do not move the rear wheel while in gear, if the top end isn't destroyed already its really close !

Cams were never in. I think I know what happened. Top end is perfect as the cams were never in and never were affected.

I inspected the cam chain and guide which are both good. The chain is brand new. My only issues is the piece that broke off and the screw. The cam chain guide doesn't move if I try to, but should I JB weld or am I ****ed?

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Sorry I have to agree with no JB, no duct tape, and no new engine cases. I would speculate the crank got turned with the cam chain wedged against the chain guide and it broke out the guide retainer. YES it needs to be fixed. Not a hard job for a welder. Parts must be clean. Find a good welder and get his opinion o how much disassembly he needs for cleaning, access, and post weld clean up. I would probably strip the right side but leave the cases together.

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Sorry I have to agree with no JB, no duct tape, and no new engine cases. I would speculate the crank got turned with the cam chain wedged against the chain guide and it broke out the guide retainer. YES it needs to be fixed. Not a hard job for a welder. Parts must be clean. Find a good welder and get his opinion o how much disassembly he needs for cleaning, access, and post weld clean up. I would probably strip the right side but leave the cases together.

Yup.

But god damnit. Removing the engine and taking most of it apart? I might just do a full part out and go buy a different bike.

This big bore install has been nothing but a ****ing pain in the ass.

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IDK, It looks like it would be fine. And isnt it help up between the head and cylinder also?

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IDK, It looks like it would be fine. And isnt it help up between the head and cylinder also?

It's the cam chain.

Oh well. 5 grand out the toilet. I already spent mucho money to upgrade it.

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If it was mine, I would take out that mangled philips head screw and form a new steel piece to replace the one that the screw is holding. The new piece would bend 90 degrees to do the job that the broken off piece was doing.

The nice thing is that you can try this without having to do much work or damage anything in the process.

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Oh well. 5 grand out the toilet. I already spent mucho money to upgrade it.

Ok take some deep breaths and take a break for a minute.

This suggestion might be worth trying.

If it was mine, I would take out that mangled philips head screw and form a new steel piece to replace the one that the screw is holding. The new piece would bend 90 degrees to do the job that the broken off piece was doing.

The nice thing is that you can try this without having to do much work or damage anything in the process.

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Couldn't it be welded in place... on the bike??? What I'm saying is not pulling the engine and just removing a few things... just trying to help.

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If it was mine, I would take out that mangled philips head screw and form a new steel piece to replace the one that the screw is holding. The new piece would bend 90 degrees to do the job that the broken off piece was doing.

The nice thing is that you can try this without having to do much work or damage anything in the process.

seems like a good solution.

can't really think of any major drawbacks anyway if the piece is made well. no stress cracks @ the bend from forming to prevent it from breaking later on.

very important to not rotate the crank without holding the cam chain allowing it to rotate as it should.

i'm sure you know that now, but others can learn from the mistake.

don't give up on it yet.

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