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2011 Husqvarna q

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My manual is driving me nuts with the translation.

2011 Husqvarna TE 250 open bath KYB forks. Is the compression adj on the top or bottom? Rebound? Thanks

Edited by Jason S

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Set the bike up correctly with correct sags and spring rates. On my WR150, I had to go down one size on the forks spring, from .42kg to .40 . I had to go way up on shock spring from a 5kg to a 6kg. You want fork rider sag of 75mm and 40-42mm static. Rear should be about 30-34mm static and rider sag of 100-103mm. Now my bike is well balanced and plush. I weigh 185lbs.

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Thanks. That's what I thought. My manual says TC TXC models on the bottom and TE models on the top, but I may be interpreting it wrong. Could be referring to which illustrations or something.

Dwight, I'm working through your formula from C/H site. Please see your thread and comment. I've posted my static sags and it seems I will need the exact spring changes you had. Although I realized I haven't done fork rider sag yet. Tonight.

Thanks!

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11 TE 250.

Front travel 300mm

I should have 40mm static

I have 33mm static

I have 53mm rider.

Rear travel 296mm

I should have 32mm static

I have 57mm static

I have 105mm rider.

According to this my front springs are too stiff and my rear spring is too soft. However with these numbers seems the bike should be pushing corners but it's not. It corners quite good. I have my race sag at 105mm. I'm afraid if I go stiffer on the back spring, it'll set me farther into my forks stroke where the stiffer valving is. I DON'T want the forks stiffer feeling. Also if I install a softer springs in the front Im afraid it could possibly put the forks farther in the stroke also.

Thoughts?

Edited by Jason S

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Rear travel 296mm

I should have 32mm

I have 57mm static

I have 105mm rider.

According to this my front springs are too stiff and my rear spring is too soft.

no, rear spring is too stiff

it should collapse by your weight: 105-32=73mm

it does collapse: 105-57=48mm

sounds like you have a locomotive spring in your bike, if these numbers are correct...

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Maybe im using the wrong terminology or measuring wrong so ill explain.

With the bike on a stand rear suspension fully extended i meassure. I then put the bike on the ground and measure= 57mm drop.

Bike on the stand again, measure, put the bike on the ground, get on it and measure= 105mm drop. Is this not static and rider sags?

I did the same for the front??

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you are doing it correct , your rear spring is too stiff by a good amount , maybe 4 rates and your forks if doing rocks and gnarly enduro stuff is too stiff , it's a setup that's more like mx really , the rear won't sit different with a softer rear spring as the rider sag will still be 105mm , it will corner a lot sharper with softer fork spring and softer rear spring ad the rear will go higher as you brake as it has more preload , and the forks will make it even more so with softer springs , some riders don't like how "perfect " springs feel btw

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I don't understand. If my rear is supposed to drop only 32mm on the static, and it drops 57mm, thats much more of a drop than its supposed to be. If i go softer on the rear it'll drop even more wont it?

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I don't understand. If my rear is supposed to drop only 32mm on the static, and it drops 57mm, thats much more of a drop than its supposed to be. If i go softer on the rear it'll drop even more wont it?

you don't set the static sag - it's a result.

so if you have a softer spring you increase the preload to reach your 105mm rider sag.

increased preload results in less static sag...

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you don't set the static sag - it's a result.

so if you have a softer spring you increase the preload to reach your 105mm rider sag.

increased preload results in less static sag...

Which is why I do it bass-ackwards...

I set static to XX. Customer can see XX numbers on sag scale.

Then they get on bike.

Bike only settles to 85mm "rider" sag. Obvious spring is too stiff.

If bike collapses onto rear tire when rider gets on, spring is too soft or rider is a fat bastard...

Even though "technically" the worng way to do it, it's much more logical...but once you grasp the concept, static sag tells you the real story. A really light rider will usually get better performance with "excessive" static sag than using a bic pen spring which gives "correct" numbers...

Tick, Tick, Tick...Dwight?

👍

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Which is why I do it bass-ackwards...

I set static to XX. Customer can see XX numbers on sag scale.

Then they get on bike.

Bike only settles to 85mm "rider" sag. Obvious spring is too stiff.

If bike collapses onto rear tire when rider gets on, spring is too soft or rider is a fat bastard...

Even though "technically" the worng way to do it, it's much more logical...but once you grasp the concept, static sag tells you the real story. A really light rider will usually get better performance with "excessive" static sag than using a bic pen spring which gives "correct" numbers...

Tick, Tick, Tick...Dwight?

👍

I'm listening Lew. Now what about the forks?

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I'm listening Lew. Now what about the forks?

Twin Chamber forks make it difficult but the same applies. If you don't have enough static sag to start with, then you are wasting your time measuring rider sag IMO. On this, ole "big head" Dwight & I agree.

Set static to XX.

Check rider sag about 10 times and avg. Best done also with warm suspension. Forks are tough to get consistent measurements.

Most people have no idea how to measure fork spring preload in TC forks...

👍

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Ok, makes sense now. I see the point on how spring preload will affect the static sag differently than I was thinking. On the rear I can see the point on setting the static to see if your rider sag ends up right. Quite a bit harder on the forks though. youd almost have to have extra springs and preload blocks laying around.

Thanks for the answers!

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My *NEW* sag settings.

Ok, some how my numbers were way off. After racing an Enduro last weekend the balance felt way off. So this weekend went back in the garage to recheck what they were. Somehow my rear was at around 127mm rider sag:eek: Not sure how that happened, or maybe because I had my kid help me:rolleyes:

Now, after making sure my rear is set properly(with lots of tape measure education and the other kid taking pictures so I can see), my numbers are-

Rider sag- 104mm

Static- 34mm

Thats better! No wonder I was at 57mm static!!

The front is still around-

Rider- 52mm

Static- 32mm

From my understanding, this means my fork spring are too stiff, right? If so, how many sizes should I drop?

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... Somehow my rear was at around 127mm rider sag:eek: Not sure how that happened, or maybe because I had my kid help me:rolleyes:

Now, after making sure my rear is set properly(with lots of tape measure education and the other kid taking pictures so I can see), my numbers are-

Rider sag- 104mm

Static- 34mm

Thats better! No wonder I was at 57mm static!!

...sounds like you have a locomotive spring in your bike, if these numbers are correct...

as I said, must have been a tank spring 👍

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👍

Most people have no idea how to measure fork spring preload in TC forks...

just remove the bottom (rebound clicker) bolt. very easy... :ride:

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you need to drop at least 3 rates maybe 4

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Ok thanks. Will this make the bike ride lower in the stroke where the valving is stiffer giving me a less supple ride? Or will the softer springs compensate for that?

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👍

just remove the bottom (rebound clicker) bolt. very easy... :ride:

How exactly does that work? I drop the slider and remove the spring seat clip then measure the difference.

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