Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

2006 KTM 450 EXC battery doesn’t charge

Recommended Posts

Riding my KTM 06 EXC all weekend and the e-start worked great no sign of low battery until at one point on the ride it just wouldn’t do turn over. No click or any kind of noise just nothing when pressed the button. Kick started it but it was kind of hard to start. Made it back to camp, about 10 miles, no problem. I put a volt meter on the battery and it showed 0 volts. Usually I see low voltage like 11 when the battery can’t run the engine over but never seen zero. I thought that was strange.

I kick started the engine and pulled out the battery and on idle I see 10 volts at the battery terminal. If I turn the headlight on it drops to 8 V. When I rev the engine the voltage also drops with a higher RPM like down 4 volts at half throttle.

I’m not an electrical guy but it seems that either the stator or the regulator/rectifier is bad. But if the stator is bad would the engine run?

The battery is about 1 yr old and always been strong and charged it between rides with a battery tender.

Any input would be great to diagnose this problem.

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would start by cleaning every terminal really well with contact cleaner and a wire brush or sandpaper. Check the ground strap that runs to the subframe and then the subframe mounts. don't just tighten them, pull them apart and clean them, then apply some dialectric grease to them.

A dirty connection will cause extra resistance and eventually damage the charging system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I would start by cleaning every terminal really well with contact cleaner and a wire brush or sandpaper. Check the ground strap that runs to the subframe and then the subframe mounts. don't just tighten them, pull them apart and clean them, then apply some dialectric grease to them.

A dirty connection will cause extra resistance and eventually damage the charging system.

I agree.

If you have a service manual, it will give you full trouble shooting steps for checking the stator output, Recitifer input/output voltage and resistance, and your battery specs.

The very first thing you do with an electrical issue, is look for something simple:

- bad connection in harness

- bad ground at battery, ground lead, in harness

- shorting devices; switches, kill buttons, lighting control

- bad battery: battery cells don't last forever, and one bad cell can give you strange results.

- if it's none of the above, then you start testing parts like the stator, rectifier, etc.

A wire in the harness rubbing through, and shorting against the frame is a very likely cause..........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dirt bikes and boats have one thing in common. Electrical systems that are prone to having faulty connections. The advice to check your grounds and other main connections first is a great one.

For some reason KTM EXCs have a bit of an odd stator setup. One part of the stator supplies DC power and goes thru the rectifier. This powers pretty much everything on the bike. The other part of the stator supplies AC (of a sort, I believe it may be actually half rectified DC though I have yet to put a meter on it to verify) for the lighting. Not sure why they did this unless it was to ensure the lighting circuit could not drain the battery or cause a system wide short.

A reading of "Zero" across the battery terminals is hard to believe unless the battery shorted internally. I would use a charger to charge the battery and load test it before getting too deep into anything else.

Good luck. Chasing down electrical issues can be a PITA. When I recently picked up my '05 525EXC the first thing I did before taking it anywhere was strip off the tank and plastics so I could find and repair any chaffed wiring (found three spots) and check all connectors and apply di-electric on everything.

Oh and here's a link to a 2004 wiring diagram, I think it's basically the same as the 2006. http://slorider.com/KTM/manuals/2004_250_450_525_racing_ele.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was a bit skeptical about a bad connection being the cause but I went ahead and pulled apart all the plugs blew them out with air and contact cleaner then greased(di-elctric)it and put it back together. I also threw in a new battery. The battery voltage at the battery terminal reads 12.8 when the engine is not running than on idle it goes up to 13.4, that’s sounds good right? If I twist the throttle the voltage at the terminal stays around 13.4 and if I switching my lights on doesn't effect it either.

So, I think my problem is solved but I still would like to do a longer field test. :busted:

I think Krannie was right about the strange results due to bad battery cell.

As a bonus I got my head light working strong again.:smashpc:

Thanks for your advices!👍:worthy:

Edited by topi1967

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it is very important to go do an in depth field test as soon as possible. Ha Ha

good thing we got all this rain here in CA.

As for batteries, we had a motorcycle battery in our Formula Ford race car that had a bad contact internally. No load it was fine, three laps on track and it would die. As soon as it ran a little current and the internal lead got warm it would crap out.

Cause was a bad power switch adding load and possibly unsoldering an internal contact.

No charging system on a Formula Ford it runs right of the battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think it is very important to go do an in depth field test as soon as possible. Ha Ha good thing we got all this rain here in CA.

As for batteries, we had a motorcycle battery in our Formula Ford race car that had a bad contact internally. No load it was fine, three laps on track and it would die. As soon as it ran a little current and the internal lead got warm it would crap out.

Cause was a bad power switch adding load and possibly unsoldering an internal contact.

No charging system on a Formula Ford it runs right of the battery.

:smashpc:👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was a bit skeptical about a bad connection being the cause but I went ahead and pulled apart all the plugs blew them out with air and contact cleaner then greased(di-elctric)it and put it back together. I also threw in a new battery. The battery voltage at the battery terminal reads 12.8 when the engine is not running than on idle it goes up to 13.4, that’s sounds good right? If I twist the throttle the voltage at the terminal stays around 13.4 and if I switching my lights on doesn't effect it either.

So, I think my problem is solved but I still would like to do a longer field test. :busted:

I think Krannie was right about the strange results due to bad battery cell.

As a bonus I got my head light working strong again.:smashpc:

Thanks for your advices!👍:worthy:

Official Field Testing day is 10.9.11 Sunday at Hungry Valley North entrance parking lot 8am.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Official Field Testing day is 10.9.11 Sunday at Hungry Valley North entrance parking lot 8am.

Sorry man, the head still hurts :ride: from last week miss-hap + my new helmet is not here yet. I will wait another week to give my melon a rest.

Have Fun! 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...