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P0135 Trouble Code

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I got a P0135 02 heater circuit trouble code (bank 1, sensor 1) on my 2001 Silverado with a 5.3 V8. The truck has Pacesetter long tubes and ORY. It has a proper custom performance tune.

So, does that simply mean I need to replace the upstream O2 sensor for bank 1? It mentioned something about fixing a short on the harness as the only other possible solution. I havent' crawled under the truck as of yet, but i'm pretty sure the wires were safely tucked away and properly routed during header installation.

One thing about it. The only symptom associated with this trouble code is bad fuel economy. And let me tell you, that is no lie. My fuel economy is horrible all the sudden.

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Sweet, thanks man. I'm put the meter on it this afternoon and see what i've got. Much appreciated.

i guess the question is, if it's not the 02 sensor, what could it be?

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I got a P0135 02 heater circuit trouble code (bank 1, sensor 1) on my 2001 Silverado with a 5.3 V8. The truck has Pacesetter long tubes and ORY. It has a proper custom performance tune.

So, does that simply mean I need to replace the upstream O2 sensor for bank 1? It mentioned something about fixing a short on the harness as the only other possible solution. I havent' crawled under the truck as of yet, but i'm pretty sure the wires were safely tucked away and properly routed during header installation.

One thing about it. The only symptom associated with this trouble code is bad fuel economy. And let me tell you, that is no lie. My fuel economy is horrible all the sudden.

Burnt out heater circuits isnt abnormal. Its actually common. The sensor is still working, ie feedback to the EFI, the heater just gets it going quicker closed loop). Id bet its the sensor itself, but I suppose there is a rare instance, wiring is open or shorted, I doubt it. Easy to check with a voltmeter at the connector. Replace the sensor, clear the code and go for a drive.

Edited by toyota_mdt_tech

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Burnt out heater circuits isnt abnormal. Its actually common. The sensor si still working, ie dfeedback tot he EFI, the heater jsut gets it going quicker. Id bet its the sensor itself, but I suppose there is a rare instance, wiring it open or shorted, I doubt it. Easy to check with a voltmeter at the connector. Replace the sensor, clear the code and go for a drive.

no doubt. I've already cleared the code, and haven't moved the truck since I did so. I'm going to put the meter on it this afternoon and check it out. is it common to have terrible fuel mileage when the heater circuit fails?

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no doubt. I've already cleared the code, and haven't moved the truck since I did so. I'm going to put the meter on it this afternoon and check it out. is it common to have terrible fuel mileage when the heater circuit fails?

No, it shouldnt have an affect at all. The heater circuit is just half of the sensor, the actual feedback part is still working or it would set a different code, $20 says is just the sensor. :smashpc: Not uncommon

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No, it shouldnt have an affect at all. The heater circuit is just half of the sensor, the actual feedback part is still working or it would set a different code, $20 says is just the sensor. :smashpc: Not uncommon

Well, I got home, cracked open a Landshark lager, and put the truck up on the ramps. Pulled the sensor connector and the heater wires seem to be fine. I put the meter on them, and it completed the circuit. Funny thing is, I drove my son to school this morning, and everything was fine. Light never came back on. A fluke maybe?

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Well, I got home, cracked open a Landshark lager, and put the truck up on the ramps. Pulled the sensor connector and the heater wires seem to be fine. I put the meter on them, and it completed the circuit. Funny thing is, I drove my son to school this morning, and everything was fine. Light never came back on. A fluke maybe?

when i go into the gm dealer world site... the code you are getting says it can be related to an added remote start ? has it had a remote start added ?

have never seen that before.. as toyo says .. it is probably the sensor..

and yes, bank 1 sensor 1 is lh pre cat..

i know my 01 always enjoys an adult beverage...:smashpc:

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Well, I got home, cracked open a Landshark lager, and put the truck up on the ramps. Pulled the sensor connector and the heater wires seem to be fine. I put the meter on them, and it completed the circuit. Funny thing is, I drove my son to school this morning, and everything was fine. Light never came back on. A fluke maybe?

Not a fluke, its closed now, but the circuit will open up again. Its done. Its like a light bulb, near the end, it will work, then not. Replace the sensor

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Not a fluke, its closed now, but the circuit will open up again. Its done. Its like a light bulb, near the end, it will work, then not. Replace the sensor

10-4, makes sense to me. I'll get one on order.

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just a quick tidbit, check the o2 harness connection point. If it got wet, or is dirty it's possible that the sensor shorted. I don't know if the O2 sensors are set anything like on an f150 although I imagine they are similar. If that is the case you can simply swap the front and rear O2 sensor and be fine. On a ford triton at least the rear O2 is only used to monitor the cat performance, doesn't effect drive-ability or performance. It will still trigger a check light, however if once you move the sensor if it trips again then you know for a fact that the sensor is bad.

Most likely the sensor is old and needs to be replaced.

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just a quick tidbit, check the o2 harness connection point. If it got wet, or is dirty it's possible that the sensor shorted. I don't know if the O2 sensors are set anything like on an f150 although I imagine they are similar. If that is the case you can simply swap the front and rear O2 sensor and be fine. On a ford triton at least the rear O2 is only used to monitor the cat performance, doesn't effect drive-ability or performance. It will still trigger a check light, however if once you move the sensor if it trips again then you know for a fact that the sensor is bad.

Most likely the sensor is old and needs to be replaced.

Yes, rear 02 sensor is only to let you know when the cat has degraded by 60% or more, it has no input to the EFI. And it will trip a code P0420/P0430 is you have a degraded cat, or a different one of the sensor itself is bad. But as for swapping to the front, most mfg are now using AF sensors (air fuel ratio) and they are different, but they will usually have a different shaped connector so you cant get the wrong one. His 01 Chevy, it could be either/or. If it is an 02, and the connector fits, this would work.

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My truck does not have downstream o2 sensors or cats anymore, thanks to Pacesetter Long Tube Headers and ORY. 👍 It's the Bank 1 Sensor 1 according to the predator, but the light hasn't came back on since I cleared it. I'm still going to order a replacement for it this friday when I get paid. I replaced the bank 2 sensor when I did the headers, and should have just gone ahead and done both. This is why. :ride: I also have a custom tune that deletes the downstream O2's and adjust air/fuel mixture to compensate for other mods. So no worries. :worthy:

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