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2002 to 2006 kickstart shaft interchange?

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I need a kickstart shaft for my 02 yz250 and I've located a used one for an 06. The part number is off on the ninth digit.

The shaft is only available as a unit from yamaha but every other part on the shaft has the same part number 02 to 06 and is available idividually. Fugures :ride:

When I look up the 9th digit to decode it says:

Take note of the ninth digit. This number differentiates similar parts, which may come in a variety of sizes or identifying characteristics.

I'm just being my cheap self and trying to save $100 opn tis old bike. It probably won't work so I'll prolly just buy a new one. 👍

I already bought the cams from the 06 with the auto decompression so this shouldn't happen again.

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Yippie I just found one for an 04 with the same part number 👍 And some 06 cams yesterday to keep this from happening again :ride:

I wonder if the 06 yz intake cam would make an improvement over the stock 2002 WR250cam?

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So now I got the kickstart shaft on and when I went to put the case back on I noticed a crack on the hole for the starter shaft. I found a new case on ebay that still has the water pump on it. Should I leave it alone and just install or should I replace the water pump with my low mileage unit and a new seal? The bike sat for several years after the kickstarter broke and is really low mileage which is the only reason i'm resurecting a 10 year old bike. I plan on keeping the bike a while and sorting everything out properly.

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That was what I was thinking but i've never done a waterpump on a bike. Do I need new seals to transfer mine to the new case?

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If you are careful you can pull the old ones without damaging them and then put them in the new case. I would get new ones though, just to be sure. I don't know about the YZ250F specifically because I haven't torn into mine yet, but there should be two seals. One for the oil side of the engine and one for the water side. They'll probably be a couple bucks each at the dealer. Inspect the shaft where the seal lips go, there will probably be a few small grooves being worn into it. If they aren't too deep you can go at it with some fine grit sandpaper, like 420 or 600 and a power drill to polish it up.

While you're at it, check the rest of the bearings, especially on the new case for grittyness and replace any that aren't smooth. Check the rest of the oil seals for brittleness or cracks. It will probably cost you more, but you don't want to grenade your new motor because you decided to skimp a few bucks on an old bearing!

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Okay I got all my parts in and got the old water pump off when I noticed that one of the seals is under the water pump bearing :busted:. Like I said I just ordered all my parts but I didn't know I needed a bearing. Can I get the bearing out without damaging it? If I don't change that seal I guess it could damage the motor by leaking into the motor correct? I guess I just need to pay the shipping on the bearing :busted:

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As you discovered, the water pump shaft has two seals. One to keep the oil in the engine, and one to keep the coolant in the cooling system. There is a weep hole in between them so if one of them is leaking, fluid will drain out of that hole to the outside of the engine. The good news about this is it prevents cross contamination of the two systems. The bad news is if left unchecked, depending on which seal is bad, you will either run out of coolant or run out of oil after a while.

You should replace both seals. Before ordering one online or through the dealer, check locally for a bearing supplier. All they will need is the number off the bearing and chances are good they'll have it or be able to get it quickly. It will probably be cheaper, too. It should be pretty easy to get out. I would not re-use a bearing that has been pushed or pulled out from the inner race and make sure when you press it back in you use a socket that closely matches the outer diameter.

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