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10 year old DRZ..what now?

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Can't but a new bike for a year or two, but want to work over my 2002 E over the winter. Never done much to it besides add a FMF Q pipe, and upgrade the suspension. I have always performed routine mtc. but now I want to inspect/modify/replace/upgrade/clean/lube/everything I can. I have about $1000 and plenty of time and all the tools I need. Any suggestions on what to do would be great.

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Locktite fix the counter shaft sprocket, counter balancer nut, primary nut, stator screws, flywheel/starter gear fasteners.

Remove the rear suspension and swing arm, inspect , replace or clean and grease the bearings.

Remove the steering stem , inspect, replace or clean and grease bearings.

Do the free power mod.

Install a Manual cam chain tensioner and perhaps new cam chain(depending on miles/wear)

Install Case Savers if not already done so...

Install MRD SSW exhaust.

Remove top end for inspection, install a cylinder works Big Bore kit while its apart...👍

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=956091

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Not that I think I need it, but how big of a big bore are we talking about? Motor still runs good, but it is hard not to want more power!!

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Not that I think I need it, but how big of a big bore are we talking about? Motor still runs good, but it is hard not to want more power!!

440 big bore kit, run you anwhere from 340-370...

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Locktite fix the counter shaft sprocket, counter balancer nut, primary nut, stator screws, flywheel/starter gear fasteners.

Remove the rear suspension and swing arm, inspect , replace or clean and grease the bearings.

Remove the steering stem, inspect, replace or clean and grease bearings.

Do the free power mod.

Install a Manual cam chain tensioner and perhaps new cam chain(depending on miles/wear)

Install Case Savers if not already done so...

Install MRD SSW exhaust.

Remove top end for inspection, install a cylinder works Big Bore kit while its apart...👍

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=956091

Craig, great list :ride:

I’d add,

-A suspension service, fresh oil and a check for worn bushings, bands, seals, change springs or valving if your weight, riding type or style has changed since you last had it done.

- Check the valve clearance

- Have the seat redone by Seat Concepts for both a fresh look and FEEL

- If your still running the skinny OEM foot pegs, consider a new wider set.. the difference in feel after riding all day is apparent.

-service the brakes, fresh fluid and pads, check the disks, consider adding SS brake lines at the same time.

- check / replace wheel bearings, seals, spacers.

- Chain and sprockets???? Check, replace as needed.

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footpegs are mentioned

these are great http://www.pivotpegz.net/

they work , if you have suspect ankles they help a lot

Pivot pegs are an acquired taste. They are not universally liked as an option.. Those that do love um 👍 Best to ride a bike with them first if you can. Same can be said with any component that effect feel or ergonomics :ride:

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I was in the same place a year or two ago, mine is a 2000. I made a list of likes and dislikes of the bike, and a list of possible other bikes that I'd consider....after looking at everything, I decided that there was nothing out there that OVERALL I would prefer.

I upped the budget a little and just took care of everything she needed, or that I wanted. You will absolutely love the 434 kit!

I've still got mine and don't have any plans on selling, probably ever. 👍

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- Have the seat redone by Seat Concepts for both a fresh look and FEEL

Depending on where your located in ID... have Fisher's in Eagle do his magic to your seat!.... top notch! (fishersaddlebag.com - 939-6513)

Suspension... if your any where close to 2 bills.... the stock suspension sucks... order some Race Tech Springs and have Joe at Racer Services (Nampa) go through your fork and shock (249-0311)

...after that you should still have about 500.00 left over for general maintenance.

👍

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While you have the head off inspect or replace the two frost plugs (core/welch plugs whatever you call them in the US) which are situated either side of the head between the cams. These can corrode and fail allowing coolant to get into the sump and contaminate the oil...gets messy. I have just had this experience on my 2000 DRZ400K.

I sourced some replacement plugs from a local automotive supplier and now all is good.

Cheers Chris

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Pouder coat the hubs and rims , lace them up with stainless steel spokes and nipples tranforms the bike.

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what no mention of the JD kit for the carb. Suspension, wheel, head set bearings would be the 1st thing I'd look at though. The 3x3 mod and rejet the carb.

Then revalving the suspension, and a 434 big bore second (especially if the bike runs well and low miles).

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