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Carbon Fiber Skid Plates

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I am thinking of getting a Carbon Fiber Moose Racing skid plate for my 08 450XCF. Anyone try one of these or CF plates from another brand before? I know they are more expensive, but I am reading they are stronger and lighter. Plus they have a good look which is an added bonus, but I'd rather have better function than looks. Any feedback would be appreciated.👍

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Got an eline on my 2007 xcf-w. It's taken lots of hits over the past 5 years and held up well. rider

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This is a picture of the E-line CF skid plate on a 450. Clipped a rock crossing a stream, broke the clutch cover, clutch case, and broke the clutch basket. appx. $1k damage.

DSC00156.jpg

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I had a litespeed CF skid plate, waste of money. One trip through a decent rock garden and it was holed and cracked. Stick with nylon/plastic or al.

My standard kato plastic one has copped a hiding for over a year and still holding up well, if you want function over look, dont waste your money on CF.

If you wanna look like chad reed, then go CF 👍

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Can anyone post weights comparing the alum/plastic/carbonfiber?

Swiss

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I had a litespeed CF skid plate, waste of money. One trip through a decent rock garden and it was holed and cracked. Stick with nylon/plastic or al.

My standard kato plastic one has copped a hiding for over a year and still holding up well, if you want function over look, dont waste your money on CF.

If you wanna look like chad reed, then go CF 👍

those a re not off road plates just Sx superlight glide plates, the P3 is super thick and holds up very well!

skidplate1.JPG

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those a re not off road plates just Sx superlight glide plates, the P3 is super thick and holds up very well!

skidplate1.JPG

yeah the P3 is thicker and a nice plate, ive seen them do the same thing though, i dont like how CF shatters/splinters/cracks with hard impacts on rocks etc, whereas the standard plastic kato one ive been running doesnt.

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I have a moose racing CF skid plate on my 09 450xc. after a couple rides it didn't look too pretty any more and i got concerned. The seal coating on the carbon fiber wore off quickly where the skid plate contacted the rocks and logs. But a summer later it never cracked or broke in anyway, so I am happy with it and it still looks a hell of a lot better than a brand new aluminum plate.

http://s1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb339/craiglife/?action=view&current=cfskidplate.jpg#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1200.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb339%2Fcraiglife%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D09450xcf2ndsummer.jpg

http://s1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb339/craiglife/?action=view&current=cfskidplate.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1200.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb339%2Fcraiglife%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dcfskidplate.jpg

Edited by craiglife

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Thanks guys for all of your feedback. I have one quick question for those of you who have installed skid plates on your bikes... I went to remove the plastic plugs from underneath the peg bar and I do not see where the threaded holes are. Were the holes plastic themselves? Just curious as I removed all of the plastic but I see nowhere for the bolts to go to mount a skidplate. There are two hex holes though so I do have a few ideas on how to mount this thing, but any feedback would be appreciated.

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Klakeman, i have an acerbis unit on my 350, one bolt mounting reasonable coverage of ignition and water pump, not as good imo as the old rfs units but good enough for me, cyclebuy has them in stock for around $80

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For Offroad, HS & Desert, buy the Works Connection Aluminum full coverage one with the new mounting features. They have the most protection. CF is only good for MX.

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Thanks guys for all of your feedback. I have one quick question for those of you who have installed skid plates on your bikes... I went to remove the plastic plugs from underneath the peg bar and I do not see where the threaded holes are. Were the holes plastic themselves? Just curious as I removed all of the plastic but I see nowhere for the bolts to go to mount a skidplate. There are two hex holes though so I do have a few ideas on how to mount this thing, but any feedback would be appreciated.

Those would be called 'nutserts' or 'blind threaded hex inserts'

or 'flanged hex nut serts' or something like that...

They also need the special riveting tool to insert them.

I'm in the same boat you are, and Googling like crazy to find the exact replacement.

When I come up with something, I'll post back...

Unless someone here knows exact part #s and a source??

photobucket-1164-1320877683735.jpg

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Thanks 98940!

I got a majority of the plastic out and I still have the nuts in there, but on the right side there is still some plastic remaining that will NOT come out and the threads were starting to get messed up. Funny thing is I went to youtube to see if anyone has a video, and sure enough a guy has a video that shows him using a hobby knife to remove the plastic in two seconds.:busted: Wish I would have done that BEFORE getting into this mess.

I am thinking of getting a couple 8mm nuts and lightly JB wedling them into these holes in the frame... its a risk but like you I am trying to think of different scenarios on this one to get a good simple fix. I have found wrenching on my first KTM to be somewhat easy, until this.

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oops, my bad- I didn't realize you were only referring to the plastic protective caps...

I thought you were dealing with the metal threaded insert like I was. :busted:

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This is a picture of the E-line CF skid plate on a 450. Clipped a rock crossing a stream, broke the clutch cover, clutch case, and broke the clutch basket. appx. $1k damage.

DSC00156.jpg

i want to know how that adds up to 1k in damage. your parts counter must really love seeing you walk in the door.

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