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What do I need to know about the 2011 CRF250R?

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Hi, I plan on getting a 2011 crf250r within the next week. I currently race mx with my 2007 crf250r. Is there anything I need to do maintance wise with the 2011 bike that I dont do with my 07? I know they have EFI and I think there is a fuel filter. Does that need cleaned and how often? Does the bike have to be remapped to run right or is it fine stock?

What is the best way to break it in? I was thinking of just doing a 5 minute heat cycle and then let it cool and then ride going through all the gears not past half throttle for 1 hour. And then ride it some what faster for an hour and then ride it like I normally would on a mx track. Is there anything else I need to know about the bike? I just want to make sure I do everything right so it doesnt blow up.

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1. Its lighter than your 07.

2. Maintain as before, air filter after every ride etc.

3. it runs very well stock. You will need to re-map if you install a new pipe.

4. not sure about the fuel filter???? if you find out let us all know.

I started mine rode 1/2 - 3/4 throttle for the first 2 tanks then checked everything changed the oil and filter and went racing. All is good

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Had three brand new CRF's and I just ran them through a few heat cycles then rode the hell out of them with no problems

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i just change the fuel filter,i did it at 40 hrs and it looked great,the position is changed from the 10's and doesnt seam to get as dirty as some of them i have changed.i did 2 full practice sessions15 minute sessions,running normal except not revving as high.i find they start better with light kicks as well,not slamming down fast on the kicker.

other then the clutch cable going to shit every 20-30 hrs its been great(exhaust heat),i would suggest greasing all the linkages,swingarm and head bearings if you have the knowhow.

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Remove throttle cable and wrap the section near the pipe with heat wrap. This will prolong the cable getting messed up.

I would also remove the air box and re-seal the air box boot to the air box with high heat silicone. Honda uses really thin contact type stuff.

Remove the inner thin fiber clutch plate and the judder springs and add one regular fiber plate. I would also install stiffer clutch springs.

The crfstuf filter works great but I do not leave it in the tank, I only use it when filling tank and I keep it in a small tupper ware type of sealed contaner so it does not get dirty.

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ALl great info. Remove the backfire screen, remap it, new front tire (pirelli MXMS) ! All cheap and make a good difference. Keep on the spokes, bolts. Warm it up make sure you have no leaks, take it out for 5 mins running through the gears and shit, revving it but not wide open for long periods. Bring it back let it cool, make sure no leaks again. Then WFO! Taking it too easy on a new motor is worse than revving this piss out of it.

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Well I called about every shop in arizona. Do you think $6700 OTD is a fair price? Will there be that big of a diffrence between my 2007 and a 2011? My 07 has 120 hours now and I dont know if I should just keep racing it or get a new bike. At 150 hours which I will hit within the next couple monthes its going to need about $1800 worth of work done to it.

new top end

bottom end

crank bearings

clutch

new rear wheel

tires/tubes

muffler repacked

chain/sprockets

cam chain

cables

suspension serviced

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Well I called about every shop in arizona. Do you think $6700 OTD is a fair price? Will there be that big of a diffrence between my 2007 and a 2011? My 07 has 120 hours now and I dont know if I should just keep racing it or get a new bike. At 150 hours which I will hit within the next couple monthes its going to need about $1800 worth of work done to it.

new top end

bottom end

crank bearings

clutch

new rear wheel

tires/tubes

muffler repacked

chain/sprockets

cam chain

cables

suspension serviced

I paid $6900 otd for a 2012. Let them keep that 2011. Huge difference between the 10/11 and the 12.

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I paid $6900 otd for a 2012. Let them keep that 2011. Huge difference between the 10/11 and the 12.

Ya but they want $8000 for a 2012.

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Ya but they want $8000 for a 2012.

What are you guys smoking in AZ? The bike retails for $7420!!! Make some phone calls, get in your truck and save yourself some money. Tell them to stick their 8g's.

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Hi, I plan on getting a 2011 crf250r within the next week. I currently race mx with my 2007 crf250r. Is there anything I need to do maintance wise with the 2011 bike that I dont do with my 07? I know they have EFI and I think there is a fuel filter. Does that need cleaned and how often? Does the bike have to be remapped to run right or is it fine stock?

What is the best way to break it in? I was thinking of just doing a 5 minute heat cycle and then let it cool and then ride going through all the gears not past half throttle for 1 hour. And then ride it some what faster for an hour and then ride it like I normally would on a mx track. Is there anything else I need to know about the bike? I just want to make sure I do everything right so it doesnt blow up.

I say dont get it and get you a ktm 250sx 0r yamaha yz 250:thumbsup:

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What are you guys smoking in AZ? The bike retails for $7420!!! Make some phone calls, get in your truck and save yourself some money. Tell them to stick their 8g's.

I talked to the dealer where I got my last bike from. He said he could do $7300 for a 2012. Now Im stuck. Is there that big of a diffrence between a 2011 and 2012. The price diffrence is about $600.

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apparently yes! honda refined the CRF with each year, and this year they lowered the rear with a longer pull arm on the linkage (helps calm the front end down) stiffer fork springs in the front (also calms the bike down) and have wider footpegs (way better then years prior). i would get the 12 but try and talk that price down!!!

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apparently yes! honda refined the CRF with each year, and this year they lowered the rear with a longer pull arm on the linkage (helps calm the front end down) stiffer fork springs in the front (also calms the bike down) and have wider footpegs (way better then years prior). i would get the 12 but try and talk that price down!!!

What do you think is a fair price? I thought is was fair because it was $100 below msrp OTD. But I would like to get it for $7000 and that is my budget.

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take the 2012, it will be the best 600$ invested of your life. It's a whole different animal!

more balanced suspension, new head, throttle body and cam, it have a lot more low and mid than previous year but with the same top end.

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take the 2012, it will be the best 600$ invested of your life. It's a whole different animal!

more balanced suspension, new head, throttle body and cam, it have a lot more low and mid than previous year but with the same top end.

It def has more bottom i will agree. But its hardly a whole diff animal. The spring rates are the same. The bottom end has to do with the decreased throttle body. Unless ur fast you may not notice too much, the amount of bottom is evident due to the fact that a stock 2011 has none. If you can get an 11 way cheaper i take that. do your suspension, air4orce, remove backfirse screen, remap. All pretty cheap. I have a PC link on my 11 and honestly from what everyone says i was expecting a crazy difference. I noticed a little bit more stability. i mean if its 600 id get a 12. But i bet you could lowball him huge on the 2011.

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Ok thanks. Im pretty sure I will try to get the 12. What is the stock suspenison set up for pounds wise. I weigh 165-170. Will I need new springs?

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