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Carb Problems on 01E with FCR, Jetting?

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Ok guys. So its been a while but I'm finally getting back to working on the bike. I think I need to do some jetting to get the bike to run well. As of now I have the air box opened up, the Eddie Mod done, and the coast enricher removed, and the guy before me completely removed the baffle and the cap off the muffler (which I hate, not sure if would effect things, I would think so). As far as I know it's got stock jetting, and I set the carb up last time I cleaned it as the shop manual says.

The bike pops under de-acceleration when you get back on the throttle. I think the carb needs a good cleaning so that might solve that. Nevertheless, I know that the jetting has to be off with the mods listed above and the jetting being stock. The bike has never really idled well for me either. I have to crank the idle screw up so far that the the bike idles at like 1000 rpm (guessing), and when I crack the throttle it takes 10 to 15 second for the bike to drop back to this elevated idle level. I have done some reading that replacing the jets is really better than trying to clean them out. I'm quite sure I have them spotless, but ya never know. So I thought maybe just go ahead and jet the thing and try and kill two birds with one stone. Also, the bike still has the off idle hesitation when you go to WOT off idle, even with the Eddie Mod. Suggestions?

Where to get the jets? What all jets need to be changed? I dont want to buy a whole kit. I'm not to worried about perfect tuning, I just want the bike to run well and right, so I can go riding. Thanks!!

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Because you removed the coast enricher, you made the decel issue (which was bad enough with a chopped up muffler) much worse. The Coast Enricher sole job is to deal with decel popping.

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Because you removed the coast enricher, you made the decel issue (which was bad enough with a chopped up muffler) much worse. The Coast Enricher sole job is to deal with decel popping.

Yeah. Can't I just solve all my issues (idle, off idle hesistation, and decel pop) with a jet kit?

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A Jet kit will make the bike run smoother (possibly) at stready throttle.

Fine adjusting of and proper pilot jet slection will give you a perfect idle (assuming your carb is not worn out).

Bogging resolution requires fine adjustming of the AP.

Reinstall the CE and ensure it wors properly will resolve the decel popping.

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Great. LOL. So how do I know if the carb is wore out? Ok, so I can re-install the CE. I just took it off because some threads said it would make it run better. Does seem that after reading some threads on here that I definitely need to re-jet since the airbox mod is done. Honestly, I think it I would be happy if I could get it to idle, and not hesitate off idle.

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Fuel Screw/Pilot Jet

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

Be sure to keep notes of your settings. You may find you need to make a change, say if you're riding in the mountains or down at the beach. Returning home, it is a simple matter of referring to your notes to restore things.

Main Jet

Starting with the recommended main, remove the airbox door and go for a ride (bike fully warmed up, 3rd or fourth gear, up a slight hill). Is it better or worse?

If it is better, you need a smaller main.

Go down one size, replace the airbox door, ride. Remove the airbox door and test again. Better or worse? If better, go down a size again. Keep repeating this till the test with the airbox door is worse.

If it was worse with the airbox door removed, tape over 1/3 of your airbox opening, test (airbox door on, of course).

If it is worse now with the tape and was worse with the airbox door off, your main is just right. You are done!

If it seems better, you need to go up a size in main jet. Then test it again (remove the tape). Replace the tape, test again. If with the tape on it is better, go up another size in main. Keep repeating this till having the tape on is worse than with it off.

To finish up and ensure you are set accurately, retest the bike with the tape off (airbox door on), ride it, then remove the airbox door (tape off, of course). Best performance should be with the airbox untapped, airbox door on.

Remember, the main only operates at WOT. Ideally, you want to be in 3rd or 4th gear doing the tests, hitting max revs (just shy of the limiter) for at least 10 seconds to get an accurate representation of the jet status.

Be sure to keep notes of your settings. You may find you need to make a change, say if you're riding in the mountains or down at the beach. Returning home, it is a simple matter of referring to your notes to restore things.

The Needle:

First, confirm your TPS is adjusted correctly per the manual.

To do this, you need to mark the throttle grip. I place tape on the grip and a piece on the throttle housing. I make a mark on each. I open the throttle completely and then make a mark to correspond to that. Then I make a series of marks at 1/2, 1/4, 3/4, 1/8,3/8, 5/8 and 7/8.

Again, in third/fourth gear ride up an stead incline each time at one of the positions, make notes on how it runs at each.

If there are running issues in the first 1/4 throttle, you will need to try a different needle, one where the last letter is different. As you go up in the alphabet, you go leaner.

If there are running issues above 1/4 throttle, that deals with needle taper, length and clip position. Often just moving the clip will sort things. If a different needle is needed (say you ran out of positions) the second to last letter is what is changed. A letter is typically equal to a clip position, so an one letter change is like moving the clip on spot.

Remember, dry sounding or flat (not a bog, just flat/lack of power) is lean. Wet, misfires, heavy is rich

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