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New Rekluse EXP 2.0 on 2000 RM250


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I have posted on here that I previously was running a E.F.M. Auto clutch on my 2000 RM250 because I run harescrambles & barely run on the MX track.

Well I have gotten alot faster since last year & here recently I realized how much zip I had lost since I installed the system. My friends that rode my bike told me that my bike just seemed slow & I didnt understand why. This is after doing a total rebuild on my lower & top end & getting the head polished. I even changed my jetting to match the Pro Circuit Pipe I am running. It wasnt a major issue to me because the bike lugged very good in the tight trails I mostly rode. Well I have started running hare scrambles where courses are wider & faster & I just wasnt able to pick up any speed like I wanted. I tried changing my gearing & dropped a couple of teeth on the rear so that I could have taller gears. Still slow..

So I finally went in & removed the system & got my stock pressure plate. The EFM system weighs close to 26 ounces & the stock clutch pressure plate only weighs 11 ounces. I basically had a 15 ounce flywheel weight on my bike on the clutch side.

Anyway, I put the stock clutch back on & voila she rips again!!:worthy:

Something else that I noticed is that after a year of running the EFM system I already have notching in my clutch basket. Now keep in mind I was instructed that I needed a stock clutch basket to run the EFM system. I bought a brand new one & a brand new hub & had it dropped shipped to EFM. I was told that a Wiseco could not be used because even though it was billet forged, it was too thin to tap into. You see, the EFM system is held on top of the stock clutch basket by long thin allen screws that have been tapped into the basket. Well about three of these screws also came loose. :ride: I dont know if it was just all of the force that was placed through the system combined with rough riding combined with the weight of the system. Never less I was afraid to reinstall the system out of fear of it coming loose because of the missing screws.

Luckily I saw that Rekluse just recently released the next generation EXP system that uses all stock clutch components with the exception of Clutch springs & a special friction disk which basically is the auto clutch. It replaces 2 or 3(not for sure) of the stock friction disks and steel plates.

I also bought a Wiseco forged basket that has holes that allow for more lubrication to the plates along with the strength.

I ran my last race with this system & have gone on a couple of fast rides with this system. Its pretty awesome.

I have got ALL of the RM zip back that I had before along with the perfect engagement of the the system. :worthy: They designed this system so that Motocrossers could use the system without the fear of the power loss. It engages perfectly. And what is an extra bonus is that you still have the manual override with springs with this autoclutch. Unless you have a KTM or a hydraulic actuated clutch the first generation auto clutch (EFM) you would get alot of slack in the clutch cable because the clutch springs are done away with & replaced with what is essentially a torque converter with balls in it.

Before I installed the EFM system I was running a flywheel weight because it was too much for the woods I was riding. I would either spin uncontrollably or stall. I took it off when I installed the EFM system.

Well now I have NO heavy autoclutch system, & I have NO flywheel weight, but I have a virtually weightless autoclutch system that engages perfectly where needed so that I can manage the unbridled RM zip.

This all equals awesome. ?

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you really cant lose with this system.

No sacrifice in power & fully functional manual perch override. And what I didnt like in the last system is the fact that I had to use a press aluminum stock clutch basket. I was assured that it would last a long time but I had a gut feeling as much as I ride that it wouldnt. I didnt mention this in the 1st post but I had to run it in 1st gear alot because 2nd gear was so sluggish in tight places where I needed the powerband to get me out of trouble. Not to mention that it would put more stress on the clutch plates.

I will admit that I had a concern with the fact that the 2.0 Rekluse special friction disk also had fibrous material similar to normal clutch friction plates. My concern was that eventually this would wear down just like any friction plate would. I spoke with a technical support person at Rekluse and they assured me that if you adjusted the free play gain as the instructions said the disk would last a really long time. And when it did eventually wear out the two halfs of the disk would cost a total of $160. The system costs $379 - $399 brand new. Pretty cheap compared to the $600 - $900 range you would pay for the previous 1st generation systems (EFM, Revloc, Rekluse Z Start 1.0).

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which springs are you using in the EXP? from what i understand it comes with harder, softer or you can run every other for a medium engagement.

and did are you saying that you still feel the power was smoothed out even with no flywheel weight?

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which springs are you using in the EXP? from what i understand it comes with harder, softer or you can run every other for a medium engagement.

and did are you saying that you still feel the power was smoothed out even with no flywheel weight?

It comes with springs that will allow you to set the engagement for low, medium, or high RPM's. The tech suggested that I set it at Medium & ride it 1st before triying to change settings. It seems to work just fine on Medium.

I thought about setting it at low next time I change tranny oil just to see how it feels. However for the woods I think medium would probably be best. With the snappiness of the motor with no flywheel weight I think the medium engagement is perfect.

I swear it engages like a human would at its best. And its consistent every time. I can start in 2nd gear now instead of 1st gear like I felt like I had to with the EFM system to get quick bursts.

I am not slamming EFM's system by the way. I think it would be a good system for larger bore bikes or perhaps 4 strokes, that wont compromise the snappy power as much, that is pretty much the bread & butter of a two stroke bike.

The only bad thing is that I have this EFM system that is in good condition, but I dont have any use for it. This thing was $625. I think it served its purpose for me when I got it because I wasnt as good a rider last year as I am now & the unbridled power would have been too much for me then & it also served its purpose in the fact I didnt have to worry about stalling.

Anyone that is a beginning rider that owns a RM 250 that rides the woods I have it for sale. I have the screws & all that would need to be done is to take a clutch basket to a machine shop & tap the secure points.

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have you tried just rolling on or a motocross style start from second gear without using the clutch? just curious as to how that works as well.

Actually I havent, BUT, on Youtube if you do a search on "Rekluse EXP" you will see a series of videos where they actually got a season Motocrosser to conduct two day tests with the EXP & without it. Some of the tests were Holeshot tests on concrete starts, dirt, etc.

The times were consistently better with the EXP.

Search & you will see for yourself.

I will say this though, I tried coming from a dead start & the traction was good with no spinning and by the time i got going I was in the powerband & it dug some nice ruts at that point ?.

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Actually I havent, BUT, on Youtube if you do a search on "Rekluse EXP" you will see a series of videos where they actually got a season Motocrosser to conduct two day tests with the EXP & without it. Some of the tests were Holeshot tests on concrete starts, dirt, etc.

The times were consistently better with the EXP.

Search & you will see for yourself.

I will say this though, I tried coming from a dead start & the traction was good with no spinning and by the time i got going I was in the powerband & it dug some nice ruts at that point ?.

yeah, i've seen those videos, but they are all with 4 strokes. i was wondering how well that worked with a 250 2 stroke. if you ever do get a chance to just try hammering a 2nd gears start without the clutch, let me know how it went.

either way it sound like this is exactly what i've been looking for.

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yeah, i've seen those videos, but they are all with 4 strokes. i was wondering how well that worked with a 250 2 stroke. if you ever do get a chance to just try hammering a 2nd gears start without the clutch, let me know how it went.

either way it sound like this is exactly what i've been looking for.

If you did a 2nd gear start on the rekluse without touching the clutch you'll just immediately pop the front end up.

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If you did a 2nd gear start on the rekluse without touching the clutch you'll just immediately pop the front end up.

Is that just how it works on a 2 stroke (from your experience) or are you just guessing? the reason i was asking is because a good friend of mine has one on his 450 and he can start from a dead stop in 3rd gear and the bike just blasts off with the front wheel about 8 inches off the ground like a rocket, no clutch needed. the thing is, as everyone well knows, 2 strokes make power VERY differently. So i was wondering if you could still start similarly with a 2 stroke as he does with his 450.

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The only thing the exp does is disengage your clutch pack at idle then re-engage off idle. Your bike will act the same as it does now in regards to power delivery. If you go wfo from a slow roll in 2nd on your current bike and it bogs from incorrect jetting then it'll still do that.

The only benefit the exp provides that may seem like it's providing better power is in it's engagement. It engagements like a perfect clutch release every time. If you have someone who isn't good at modulating the clutch then it will be a larger benefit to them than someone who can.

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I've got a RevLoc Dyna Ring on my RM, it's pretty much the same thing as the EXP. It works great and doesn't do anything that it shouldn't. As for the sudden wheelies with the EXP, it depends on how you have it set up and what your doing with the throttle. It'll wheelie or crawl along depending what your looking for it to do, same with the Dyna Ring.

In either case, I do believe that they (auto clutches) are an advantage in the woods.

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The only thing the exp does is disengage your clutch pack at idle then re-engage off idle. Your bike will act the same as it does now in regards to power delivery. If you go wfo from a slow roll in 2nd on your current bike and it bogs from incorrect jetting then it'll still do that.

The only benefit the exp provides that may seem like it's providing better power is in it's engagement. It engagements like a perfect clutch release every time. If you have someone who isn't good at modulating the clutch then it will be a larger benefit to them than someone who can.

So, right now when i race MX i start in second gear and usually get out of the gate faster than most (even if the 450s catch up on longer starts). that being said i should be able to do the exact same thing with the EXP without doing the clutchwork myself? or am i misunderstanding what you are saying?

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I don't do mx but I'm assuming you would still need to use your clutch at the start simply because you're trying to go wot and you need to modulate all that power to the rear without sliding or wheeling.

A better example of how the rekluse would help you would be corners. With the rekluse you should be able to go into corners with as much front/rear brakes as you want. You'd never have to worry about staling or modulating your clutch. Then when you get back on the throttle at the apex you have perfect clutch modulation every time...without touching it.

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oh, and to the OP. if you feel like i'm Hyjacking at all, please let me know and i'll promptly shut up.? i'm just very curious to find out some of these things before i shell out the dough.

Oh no not at all, I want to get as much feedback as I can as I am sure people have different exepriences as I. I am just stating my own opinion anecdotal claims based on my own personal experience.

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I don't do mx but I'm assuming you would still need to use your clutch at the start simply because you're trying to go wot and you need to modulate all that power to the rear without sliding or wheeling.

A better example of how the rekluse would help you would be corners. With the rekluse you should be able to go into corners with as much front/rear brakes as you want. You'd never have to worry about staling or modulating your clutch. Then when you get back on the throttle at the apex you have perfect clutch modulation every time...without touching it.

This is only theory but I would guess that if one were to use the manual override with the auto engage from a dead stop the results would be better than if one didnt have the EXP. Dont you think?

As of today holeshot starts arent a priority for me.

When I run harescrambles I dont go for that holeshot like many do because there are alot of goons that screw up in the 1st corner and wreck, & in my class I usually ending catching & passing them in the technical sstuff anyways.

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This is only theory but I would guess that if one were to use the manual override with the auto engage from a dead stop the results would be better than if one didnt have the EXP. Dont you think?

As of today holeshot starts arent a priority for me.

When I run harescrambles I dont go for that holeshot like many do because there are alot of goons that screw up in the 1st corner and wreck, & in my class I usually ending catching & passing them in the technical sstuff anyways.

that was my exact feeling for the HS i run as well, but in the last one i did 2 weekends ago, i went for it like i do in MX and went through the first corner in 3 place and WOW was that so much easier when i got in the tight stuff and didn't have to pass all the goons.....

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