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I ordered a mcct from TT like six months ago and I'm too nervous to check tdc and valves by myself. My brothers been bogging on helping me out but I really wanna get this thing on there. Ive searched and searched and like most things on here there's many opinions and arguments for every side. My question is can I really put the bike in fifth, push it all the way back, and count on that position being safe enough to swap to mcct? Im doing some maintenance on her today and it would be nice to install.

also...ammy question, is it better to downshift from third to second or can I go from third to first no problem(on motor or breaks)? I always downshift from fourth and fifth of course. Thanks.

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You should just go ahead and remove the valve cover and check the lobes. I have no mech experience and it was no problem for me. And trust me, if i can do it, u can too. Just do your homework, don't forget the gasket in the half moons when you put the cover back on.

That being said, i was nervous as hell, but theres a sense of satisfaction to doing it the more labour intensive and safer way. Plus u get more and more comfortable working on it.

I sound like Anthony Robins now. Sorry

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Haha. That gives me hope. I do want to accomplish it while checking my valves so that it doesn't seem so foreign to me anymore. But I also just want to throw this mcct on right now. I would be sick if my bike blows up before I get this on and always second guess.

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Thank you guys. Thanks for doing the write-ups. But in this instance I have read the write-up numerous times and have searched the subject with many different keywords. I was just hoping someone could come put it in lamens terms for a peon like me instead of a link to something I've read over and over already. I wouldn't start a thread otherwise. But I appreciate it. I guess it's all there I just have to dive in.

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It really is not that hard just take your time, and if you get to a spot wear your just lost stop post a pic of whats going on and TT will get you through it .

If you have a question about something in the FAQ right up ask , I have found the folks on TT are more than willing to help

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Thank you guys. Thanks for doing the write-ups. But in this instance I have read the write-up numerous times and have searched the subject with many different keywords. I was just hoping someone could come put it in lamens terms for a peon like me instead of a link to something I've read over and over already. I wouldn't start a thread otherwise. But I appreciate it. I guess it's all there I just have to dive in.

If you can articulate, your specific questions as to what you do not understand, I’d bet more than one can would happily rephrase the answer in a way you may better understand it.

Simply put, the info is all out there.. Ask a specific question to clarify a specific part of the instructions you do not understand and you’ll get an answer 👍

My question is can I really put the bike in fifth, push it all the way back, and count on that position being safe enough to swap to mcct?

My opinion is, NO, as if you have to ask, your likely do not have the experience to know you’ve done it correctly.

It has a "feel" component to it.

This is something an experienced rider or tech can do with ease, and with the same ease, an inexperienced person not get right.

That’s why the provided in the FAQ does not mention it.

is it better to downshift from third to second or can I go from third to first no problem

The transmission has to be shifted sequentially.. it’s not possible to skip a gear..like in a car transmission.

If you question is, when in third, and you’re at an appropriate speed to have 1st engaged, can you press the shifter twice, have the transmission in 1st and let out the clutch… the answer is yes.. You can run through the gears from 5th to 1st, so long as your wheel speed is slow enough when you let the clutch out to not over rev the engine.

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the way I put my MCCT on was to remove the spring assembly on the ACCT so that when I removed the ACCT the plunger would not fully extend itself. I then measured the depth of the ACCT plunger and adjusted my MCCT to that depth, knowing the ACCT was too tight, I then backed off a little, and installed the MCCT. I then fired her up and did a little fine tuning and haven't touched it since. Also, it's easy to find TDC with the valve cover off and the timing plug removed. With the cams close to the 10 & 2, the alignment mark should be very close to the sight plug hole. HTH

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EM, thanks for that post. That answers both my questions perfectly. I've read again FAQ and I just don't feel confident diving in there. After I see it I no doubt will learn how to do it. It sucks to realize but in reality I'm just being a bitch about it.

I would only shift from third to first if I misjudge my speed and have to go from third to a complete stop. Then start agin in first.

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someone correct me if I am wrong on this but the cam chain tensioner got a revision from suzuki in 03. The MCCT is great but the failures were pre 03 right.

MoBeffah, the issue is that when you decelerate hard(it doesnt sound like you) the cct can slack off and allow the chain to possibly jump a tooth on the cam gear which could potentially cause an interference condition between the valves and piston. Hopefully someone else can comment on the cct year change but its not something i would loose sleep over on your bike or stop riding.

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No I don't lose sleep or stop riding. But that's the problem, it's my daily commuter. It adds the hesitation I have about opening her up. If I encounter a problem I can't fix in the same afternoon I'm screwed. As for the acct, besides the rare catastrophic failure it already puts too much pressure on the cam chain.

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someone correct me if I am wrong on this but the cam chain tensioner got a revision from suzuki in 03. The MCCT is great but the failures were pre 03 right.

MoBeffah, the issue is that when you decelerate hard(it doesnt sound like you) the cct can slack off and allow the chain to possibly jump a tooth on the cam gear which could potentially cause an interference condition between the valves and piston. Hopefully someone else can comment on the cct year change but its not something i would loose sleep over on your bike or stop riding.

1: Yes the revised ACCT in 2003 addressed the common catastrophic failure issue.

2: The revised ACCT puts way too much pressure on the cam chain. Wearing it excessively (stretching), causing cam timing to be off by several degrees in a hand full of hours and beyond.

3: If your comfortable with replacing the timing chain as a wear item, and having performance effected by altered timing from just a few hours to the remaining time you use the worn chain, then the ACCT is a good option, as its hands free.

OR

You can with a new of unworn cam chain, install an MCCT, and know that you will not experience a catastrophic failure that is seen with this ACCT design on LTZ’s and other Suzuki motors, as well as not have excessive pressure on the chain causing it to wear and alter timing.

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1: Yes the revised ACCT in 2003 addressed the common catastrophic failure issue.

2: The revised ACCT puts way too much pressure on the cam chain. Wearing it excessively (stretching), causing cam timing to be off by several degrees in a hand full of hours and beyond.

3: If your comfortable with replacing the timing chain as a wear item, and having performance effected by altered timing from just a few hours to the remaining time you use the worn chain, then the ACCT is a good option, as its hands free.

OR

You can with a new of unworn cam chain, install an MCCT, and know that you will not experience a catastrophic failure that is seen with this ACCT design on LTZ’s and other Suzuki motors, as well as not have excessive pressure on the chain causing it to wear and alter timing.

I didnt realize they put that much pressure on the chain! What were they thinking:) Was that suzukis fix?👍

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Well the fix was to design a ACCT that did not rely on a spring for retention of pressure against the guide. And that they did, the newest design uses a spring to extend the ACCT, but a ratcheting pawl keeps it in place, and keeps it from retracting.

So they fixed the part that caused catastrophic failure, but caused the part that wears out the chain.

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