Jump to content

Don't overtighten your drain plug


Recommended Posts

This is common on used bikes I buy. The oil drain plug was over tightened by the PO. After the 6-point socket rounded the hex drive I went to vice grips. Next I tried a hammer and chisel, this usually works but you can see in the pic I stopped once it looked like I was going past the sealing surface. Last resort was a Blue-Point stud extractor - victory. Just a word of advice, it doesn't need to be that tight. On the new one I used a drain seal you can get from any GM car dealer, the one that is steel with silicone rubber. It is the correct size for 11mm ID drain washers and can be reused many times because the silicone doesn't crush. This is on my son's 2002 YZ250.drainplug001.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The previous owner was probably thinking that bolt was holding the bike together ?.

I would just add, all bolts and nuts should/shall be tight @ a specific torque, this is why engineer design stuff and select that bolt with that pitch thread/size vs the other one and store sell torque wrenches to prevent surprise/ catastrophic failure on components.

I work in aviation industry and even small screws holding panels we use torque wrench (screwdriver with torque wrench) , not the white knuckle plus 1/4 turn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazingly, the threads in the case were not damaged. Heating it up would have been a good option, too. The previous bike was a 2001 YZ125 and the plug bung extends down from the case. On that one the PO overtightened it and cracked the bung. I repaired it with JB weld and put plastic wrap around the drain plug threads and threaded it in until it dried. Afterward I backed it out, removed the plastic wrap, put a new drain washer on and it was leak free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...