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Crank shaft in left side

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New to all of this so please bare with me! --

Rod had play on crankshaft so decided probably needed a new one. Took engine out, took everything out, split the cases just by using rubber mallet and wiggling. I fell apart pretty easy.

I'm following along my little manual when I realize the crankshaft is in the left side, with the instructions saying I should be pressing it out of the right. Can't find any good suggestions online; what do you guys recommend?

How to get it out? Do I need a tool? Just throw it in the oven?

Also there is some rough spots in the inside of case where bad crank shaft rubbed. Culd i just sand down?

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yep. you *can* heat the case surrounding the crank, engine sitting on a frame of 2x4 blocks with the rt. case face-up, so that gravity will pull downward on the crank as it loosens, but it is well worth the $10 to ask a machine shop to press it out...b/c you do NOT want to butcher the crankshaft's threads/mandrel holes.

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have yet to ever need a press to pull apart 2-strokes... soft blow with a block of wood on crank snout will knock it out and not hurt a thing...

ya just gotta be smarter than the parts you trying to get out...

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honda cases aint supposed to come apart easy. something might be pooched. check bearing bore or crank journal

agreed. its an interferance fit, the last thing you want to do is start pounding on shit with wood and hammers. the wood isnt going to soften the entire blow, its just going to soften the blow at the point of contact. granted if you need a new crank you dont have to worry about it coming out of true but this type of work habit sends a bad message IMO.

i agree you gotta be smarter than what youre working on...therefore i own proper tools to press out/press in a crankshaft...

people spend $200 on a pipe that doenst do much, $150 for a cheap aftermarket crank, $150 for top ends, $160 for a reed cage, and then skimp out on $30-50 tools to properly put together the engine :thumbsup:

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:lol:if youve ever TRUED up a crank you know they dont GO OUTTA TRUE easy and esp. with a soft blow hammer hitting the snout and not the counterweights.... and its such a small interferance fit that they come apart pretty easy unless its all rusted/corroded together.

have yet to ever have a problem with any of my customers/my own bikes over the last 15 yrs of rebuilding them.

as i said if you cant get a set of cases together/apart without a sledge hammer then you dont need to be touching them... little grease/heat/cold goes a long way in the cases sliding together smoothly/easily... :thumbsup:

agreed. its an interferance fit, the last thing you want to do is start pounding on shit with wood and hammers. the wood isnt going to soften the entire blow, its just going to soften the blow at the point of contact. granted if you need a new crank you dont have to worry about it coming out of true but this type of work habit sends a bad message IMO.

i agree you gotta be smarter than what youre working on...therefore i own proper tools to press out/press in a crankshaft...

people spend $200 on a pipe that doenst do much, $150 for a cheap aftermarket crank, $150 for top ends, $160 for a reed cage, and then skimp out on $30-50 tools to properly put together the engine :ride:

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have yet to ever need a press to pull apart 2-strokes... soft blow with a block of wood on crank snout will knock it out and not hurt a thing...

ya just gotta be smarter than the parts you trying to get out...

thought you looked familiar. your that clown from the other site :thumbsup: who didnt know the airgap or how premix ratio could affect jetting or how to read a gearing calculator. heres something else you posted :

ok ive read/printed out/mulled over etc.. all the jetting stuff on this board but havent seen my answer yet...

ok here goes..

92 cr500

new top/bottom end with 10mins run time

wouldnt idle/smoked (not huge amounts but enough)

had pretty much stock jetting

carb cleaned

FMF FATTY (GNARLY NOW )

exhaust isnt seale up just yet (waiting on stove rope to seal it up)

so i found a place in town that actaully has pilot jets (KEIHIN) and picked up a 42

put it in, started after second kick

smoked a lot less

air screw is set at 1 1/2

idle is set at 8 3/4 turns out

will idle for about 5-10 seconds then blubs out

my question is.... is the 8 3/4 turns out on the chock knob showing im to lean on the pilot (bump to a 45 or so ??)

the air screw is pretty sensitive now and it will change it going one way or the other but not enough. i want to get that choke knob closed up some from what im thinking....

dude dont come on here trying to bullshit me. 15 years rebuilding and tuning these bikes my ass :ride::bonk::worthy::bonk::worthy::bonk:. can blow smoke up some of these guys asses but it aint gonna work on me

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thought you looked familiar. your that clown from the other site :thumbsup: who didnt know the airgap or how premix ratio could affect jetting or how to read a gearing calculator. heres something else you posted :

ok ive read/printed out/mulled over etc.. all the jetting stuff on this board but havent seen my answer yet...

ok here goes..

92 cr500

new top/bottom end with 10mins run time

wouldnt idle/smoked (not huge amounts but enough)

had pretty much stock jetting

carb cleaned

FMF FATTY (GNARLY NOW )

exhaust isnt seale up just yet (waiting on stove rope to seal it up)

so i found a place in town that actaully has pilot jets (KEIHIN) and picked up a 42

put it in, started after second kick

smoked a lot less

air screw is set at 1 1/2

idle is set at 8 3/4 turns out

will idle for about 5-10 seconds then blubs out

my question is.... is the 8 3/4 turns out on the chock knob showing im to lean on the pilot (bump to a 45 or so ??)

the air screw is pretty sensitive now and it will change it going one way or the other but not enough. i want to get that choke knob closed up some from what im thinking....

dude dont come on here trying to bullshit me. 15 years rebuilding and tuning these bikes my ass :ride::bonk::worthy::bonk::worthy::bonk:. can blow smoke up some of these guys asses but it aint gonna work on me

lulz

where's the "like this post" button?

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dude is asking for help tuning a simple keihin carb on another site then blabbs here he has 15 years experience. gimme a effin break

anybody that knows jack sqaut about engines knows a couple light taps from a hammer dont get honda 2t cases apart unless your journals are hosed or bearing bores are muffed. and if your using a hammer your a moron anyways.

ive used rubber mallet to assist with even seperation while the case seperator tool does most of the work.

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Get a crankcase spliter to get the crank out of the left side. You'll need a crank puller to install the crank again. The spliter and puller run about $60 each. Search for the Tusk brand.

On the right case where the crank came out of, is the bearing still on the crank or in the case?

It's fine to sand down the rough spots. The rough spots are probably caused by debris getting caught between the counterweight and the cases.

New to all of this so please bare with me! --

Rod had play on crankshaft so decided probably needed a new one. Took engine out, took everything out, split the cases just by using rubber mallet and wiggling. I fell apart pretty easy.

I'm following along my little manual when I realize the crankshaft is in the left side, with the instructions saying I should be pressing it out of the right. Can't find any good suggestions online; what do you guys recommend?

How to get it out? Do I need a tool? Just throw it in the oven?

Also there is some rough spots in the inside of case where bad crank shaft rubbed. Culd i just sand down?

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New to all of this so please bare with me! --

Rod had play on crankshaft so decided probably needed a new one. Took engine out, took everything out, split the cases just by using rubber mallet and wiggling. I fell apart pretty easy.

I'm following along my little manual when I realize the crankshaft is in the left side, with the instructions saying I should be pressing it out of the right. Can't find any good suggestions online; what do you guys recommend?

How to get it out? Do I need a tool? Just throw it in the oven?

Also there is some rough spots in the inside of case where bad crank shaft rubbed. Culd i just sand down?

If the cases fell apart easy.......... If your installing new main bearings or using the old ones......make sure they fit tight on the shaft of the crank webs. If they are loose on the shaft I would get a New Crank/main bearings. If the main bearing has no press fit on the shaft of the crank it will spin....not good.

To re move crank and main bearings from case, you will need a press(be careful).

When installing crank/cases back together you might want to us a "crankshaft installing jig tool".

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To clarify, it took about an hour of tapping and wiggling and it split. Don't know the right terms; the little metal cylinders that guide the slip fit, one of them is missing! Perhaps this is why it came apart so easy. I suppose I better order another one before reassembling.

I bought the bike broken for cheap just to take a part and learn something so it's no surprise that there's parts missing. Project for me and kiddie.

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Got old out and new in. No tools required besides heat, ice and this sweet book called a manual.

Viva l'Honda.

Should have it running this week!

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