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Aftermarket CDI

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Just bought an 82 XT550. Doesn't run - no spark. Preparing for it to be the CDI so I have done a lot of searching for aftermarket CDIs. Found three places and am curious if any of you have used them and if so what did you think? I read a lot on this forum about the Hypepak (Wayne Gum, NZ) unit but nothing on the other two. Very Interested to hear what anybody might have to say.

Their Links are attached below:

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

http://www.hpi.be/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XT400-XT-400-XT550-XT-550-XT600-XT-600-Ignition-/200661213497?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb8572139

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I bought a CDI from Wayne Gum a few years ago for my XT250. It died after a few hours running, and the jerk didn't want to know. Did my money cold. You have been warned.

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Not sure how much of a DIY'er you are but there is always this choice:

http://www.transmic.net/en/home.htm

Seems to be reasonable and for $30 you can't beat the price. I am planning on building one of these this winter. If I do I will document the process here for everyone.

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Hi

It is kind of hard to know if the CDI is the problem. If you possibly can, borrow a CDI to make sure, before you buy a new one.

As I understand it, „electrexworld“ is a dealer for the HPI products in the UK. So both are selling the same product.

I bought a CDI unit for my ’83 XT550 from HPI this spring. No problems, nothing to do, just plug in and go. Real good.

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I bought a CDI from Wayne Gum a few years ago for my XT250. It died after a few hours running, and the jerk didn't want to know. Did my money cold. You have been warned.

That one of most major problem with thoses electronics you get no warranty

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Thanks folks. I decided to order a CDI from the place in the UK. I figure if it ends up not being the CDI I will at least have a backup for the future. Have not started working on the bike yet but when I do I plan on testing all other electronics before changing out the CDI. Will try to remember to update this thread with my progress.

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Well here is my update. I found an open in the black wire going to the ignition coil. fixed it and got spark. Next I used a little starting fluid and the bike started on the first kick. At idle it sounded pretty good. When you start to twist the throttle it would begin to die and offer lots of back fire. Took the Carb apart and cleaned everything, checked the jets, 0-rings, and all other moving parts. Put it back together and same thing. Took the carb off and did it all over again. The way it was acting I was sure it was the carb and I have heard that the YDIS Carbs can be very touchy. Second time through same thing. Decided to try the CDI I got from Electrex World in the UK (and yes HPI is the mfg). Plugged it in, started it up and Bamm the thing runs perfect.

This post may be useful to those people that think their Carb is the reason the bike does not run right. I was certain it was the carb when in fact it was the CDI.

Hope this helps others and thanks to your replies.

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This post may be useful to those people that think their Carb is the reason the bike does not run right. I was certain it was the carb when in fact it was the CDI.

Personally I think that if you have an older bike that you should invest in a good used working CDI before you have any problems.This way you can try it in the bike right away and KNOW that it's good. I read countless posts about people spending big bucks,time and frustration troubleshooting a running problem when it turned out to be the CDI after all. I would consider it a diagnostic tool that if bought at the right time on Ebay would maybe cost you $35-$50. That's a fraction of the money that your going to spend to have a shop diagnose it. Think of how you wished you spent the money having one of these in your tool case when your stuck miles out in the woods and have to push your now dead bike through rough terrain as it's getting dark.

Edited by scotteroni
addtl info added

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Bad timing, I have to leave the office right now, but I'll post all about this tomorrow.

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Ok, as promised, I'm back.

I've only had my hands on two XT550s. The one I bought and fixed and the parts bike I bought to fix it again.

Mine ran which was the only positive attribute to the bike when I got it. The PO bashed it good by driving it under an SUV and then let it sit for four years. It was running on the gas he put in it prior to the accident when I went to look at it.

Later, it developed a strange problem where it would start and idle fine, but would run like crap over 3500 or so RPM. If you rode it long enough, it would suddenly run right which was kind of scary being in a corner and it would wake up and run like a raped ape, where prior to that it was behaving like a retarded orangutan.

After lots of testing and nearly breaking my ankle, I discovered it was not the dead CDI like these bikes are famous for. The 35 degree pulser coil had taken a dump, but when it was hot it would work right.

No one rebuilds the pulser coils. I intend to take mine apart and see if I can. I've been saying this for three years now.

The second bike was in pieces, the pulser coil was good. I switched it out with my bad stator/pulser

I did test the CDI and couldn't get it to work. Since I don't know the history, I don't have any idea what could be the problem.

That being said, you want to test the pulser coil with an ohm meter. The plug connects on the left hand side of the bike with three wires. Green, green/white and red/white. I forget what each one does.

The connector looks like a smilie face.

| |

_

Test from each "eye" to the mouth for continuity. You should have a reading from 90-130 ohms. IIRC, my bad one tested correctly between one eye and the mouth, but open between the other eye and mouth.

Also, I think my current pulser tests at 220ohms, but I might be confusing it with another project.

Stators are just as expensive and hard to get as the CDI.

A friend of mine and I have been working on a replacement CDI - it does work, however, it's still in the testing stages.

There are simple circuits available online which would replace a bad CDI and work just as well using only the 12 degree pulser, however, if your 12 degree is bad (possibly why it won't run) that won't do you any good. The bike runs amazingly well on 12 degrees only with the appropriate circuit. I rode it to work on the highway several times that way.

I suggest using the transmic one previously mentioned:

Not sure how much of a DIY'er you are but there is always this choice:

http://www.transmic.net/en/home.htm

Seems to be reasonable and for $30 you can't beat the price. I am planning on building one of these this winter. If I do I will document the process here for everyone.

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As an FYI, the CDI from Elextrex World was about 160 US dollars with 20 US dollars for shipping. I did not think that was a bad price. Also, the first one they sent (PN CD4501) was wrong and they took it back without any questions (8 wires when I needed 11). As soon as they received it back, they sent out one with 11 wires (PN CD4606) and only charged for the shipping. I was okay with that. What I found though when I received the 11 wire unit is the three extra wires are only there so you have something to plug the mating ones on your bike into. They do not work the sidestand kill switch, the neutral indicator or indicator switch. I was also okay with that. I rigged the neutral indiactor light and swith to an independent circuit. Now all that does not work is the sidestand kill switch. I know this sounds strange but there explanation was that they don't use those circuits in Europe so they only add the extra wires to give us Americans something to plug our wires into. In hind site the 8 wire unit probably would have worked fine knowing now that three additional wires are just for show.

Horsepower International (HPI) is the manufacturer distributed through Elextrex World. I was communicating directly with HPI relative to my questions.

I only paid 400 for the bike and it only had 704 miles on it. Got it from a guy who did not know the history but my guess is the CDI failed early on and the original owner did not want to pay the 500 dollars for the OEM replacement. The bike then sat for 30 years. That is my guess.

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That's great. If your bike is in decent shape, you got a good deal for $600. They're a heck of a lot of fun off road and well mannered on the road (until you run out of gas on the highway and need to switch to reserve). People say they're heavy, but I've never had any problem with the weight. These bikes will run all day long and will climb a slippery wall with decent tires.

Make sure your auto-decompression is set correctly, they're a lot easier to kick over that way.

The brakes suck. Leave plenty of stopping distance, especially on the road.

Since the bikes were only made for two years, finding parts is a pain, but other than that and the brakes, I have no complaints.

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Smacaroni,

I agree with all your comments especially the one about having the auto-decompression set correctly. Before I set it correctly, you never knew what to expect when jumping on the kick start. After setting it according to the manual, what a huge difference for the better.

Just to let you know it was one of your early threads, regarding testing the electrical components/circuitry, that helped me isolate the open in the coil plug. thanks for that information.

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This made my day. That and the fact that I just bought better motorcycle leathers than I was going to buy in eBay locally on CL for $35 less.

Then as I was going to turn left out of an alley, some random pedestrian says "hey guy!". I look at him cause people always seem to think I'm the guy to ask for directions, even in BOSTON when I had PA plates on my car! He says "I'm gonna walk out and traffic is going to stop, then you go". I yell thanks. He crosses behind my car, then steps out into the street. Traffic stops.

Everything is coming up Milhouse!

It really does make me feel good when the stuff I post helps somebody else out later... That means people know how to use TT search and google, this gives me hope for the future.

Seriously, enjoy the bike, there's a very special feeling that only a big bore thumper can provide. It doesn't produce power, it produces torque and boat loads of it.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

Edited by Smacaroni

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Not sure how much of a DIY'er you are but there is always this choice:

http://www.transmic.net/en/home.htm

Seems to be reasonable and for $30 you can't beat the price. I am planning on building one of these this winter. If I do I will document the process here for everyone.

Just a warning to anyone thinking of building the analog unit on the transmic web site. I think there is a mistake on the skematic on the right side where the alternator connects to the bridge rectifier. As shown, one diode of the bridge is shorted if wired as shown. This is normally not done this way but sometimes engineers try for a certain goal by doing things differenty. Has anyone actually done it this way and what were the results???

Edited by motoxvet

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c14saki, I’m glad things worked out for you.

Motoxvet, I did build a analog CDI (for my XT550) from the analog unit on the transmic web site. It worked fine.

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GU520, Its cool that you made it work. I wish we had an ELECTRICAL ENGINEER here on TT to chime in here about this. Even though you made it work, there may be a better way to wire that rectifier. Any engineers listening???

BTW, GU520, if you built this, you might remember the answer to this. In the parts list, all capacitors are listed with a number value and then "n". By convention in the US, this means "nanofarad". If they are "microfarad" , they would be labeled as "u" or usually "uf". So are they really ALL microfarad? Or what?

Edited by motoxvet

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I am planning to build one here in the next few months but I'm only a mechanical engineer. Luckly I work at an electrical engineering company :smirk:

I should be getting goning here in the next few weeks on it, and I will have one of my co-workers have a look. I will let you guys know if they come up with something.

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I have to admit, I dropped the ball on this one. I'm no electrical engineer, but a buddy of mine is a master with electronics. He built the TCI that almost broke my ankle and he built a CDI/TCI selectable unit that works, but I never got to getting all the bugs written down as I'm scared of the damn thing after the ankle incident.

I'll put it on my to-do list, right now it's tied for the #4 position after:

(secret project hopefully to be revealed this month)

(uber-secret project I alluded to in another thread, somewhat dependent upon the above)

Purchase XR100

#4: PW80 porting experiements

I do really want to get that done, I just want somebody else to kick-start it till I know it's bug free.

Edited by Smacaroni

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