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1982 xr500r?

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I have a pretty cherry 82 xr500, that my dad bought from the first owner, and has been in the family since 86. I got it from him a few years ago and it has stayed in my basment till now. I plan on street legaling it and want to have the engine gone through due to some issues that were never fixed properly by the dealer years ago (broken kick shaft, engine has never run right right since). I usally do all my own work, but with this engine, I don't mine paying someone who has experience to get the engine right. Bike is bone stock. I was hoping one of you guys could point me in the right direction. Thanksmail-2.jpg

Edited by yammaxx

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search the motorcycles section of your local craigslist. There's always a few guys advertising on there for service work. By asking a few questions and seeing what others have to say about them you can find the ex-mechanic/retired wrench guys working out of their garages for a lot less money.

I found a guy 20 minutes from me, retired bike wrench, long time bike drag racer and motor builder. Charges $30 hr vs shops $60-80 hr and since he knows what he's doing and the bikes so simple, doens't take long to do anything.

I spent $70 and he cleaned up wiring and all kinds of stuff ASIDE from tuning it up, adjusting valves, etc

The bike fires on the first crank and absolutely PURRS.

I've never heard such a smooth sounding high compression (10.5) 650.

Best $ I've ever spent on a bike.

I've told all my friends. 👍

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I have 2 of these, one stock (from new) and one modified (also have 2 earlier ones with different frames, out of scope here).

They are not difficult to work on.

It is well worth taking the top end apart to at least replace the valve stem seals that will not doubt be cooked. Hone the cylinder or do some mods such as a rebore and a bigger piston, sharper cam (not cheap). Higher comp pistons will make your motor run hotter and these dont like heat...

Many of these have the timing chain poorly adjusted. This can lead to noise, difficulty to start and possibly catastrophic damage.

One thing to bear in mind is the aluminum used for the cylinder head is quite soft. It is very easy to strip the threads. Helicoils work well and solve this problem.

The overall most useful thing you can do is keep the oil level where it is supposed to be, with nice high quality clean oil at all times. The lubrication of the camshaft is adequate when all is right. Get it wrong and you will eat your head and cam.

Also, it is apparently easy (even with the manual) to get the ignition wiring wrong (ask how I know...), and have a very difficult to start bike, that will get you hurt, break kick start gear... It will eventually start but run horrible. I had made myself a video to keep record of how the wires actually fit together.

Sorry it is in French...

Some dont like the valve reed box and toss it. I like to keep this quirky thing on, although the steel flaps can break and go through your engine (one of mine has a flap in the muffler: there was zero damage done to the engine... may be I was lucky). You can get fiber valves from Boyesen. If you remove the reed cage, your bike will be just fine, may be slightly less responsive at low revs, ... may be and possible more grunt at high revs (which these motors dont like, beware), may be... It is probably more about what is in one's head...

The next problem you may have is the rear shock, rubber parts inside may have deteriorated. Hopefully not. Other than that, chances are that your great grand son will still be riding it!

Finally, please DO not attempt to start the bike until you have fully understood this video:

The is the ONLY way to start this bike safely for you and the bike. It sounds trivial but...

If you dont, you will be one of those :busted:

Becoming complacent with this procedure resulted in a hole in my lower leg...

Have fun.

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