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Clattering noise from 440

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I know a lot of questions have been asked about DRZ engine noise, but I know what my DRZ normally sounds like, and the clatter is not normal.

I have the Athena 440 kit, webcams, and MCCT...all installed by the previous owner. I've put about 3k miles on the bike, and it has 8k total. The clatter is coming from the top end. It began faint, and has gotten progressively louder. I don't think valves make more noise when out of spec? Could this clatter be coming from the cam chain? I was under the assumption the MCCT didn't require adjustment....is my assumption incorrect?

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MCCT does need periodic adjustment. You'll find the adjustment is covered in the MCCT installation in the FAQ.

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You mention a MCCT not requiring adjustment. Well, the longevity of the timing chain will certainly depend on the tension applied to the chain and its my guess that there are plenty that are over-tighten as I speak. The only thing you can do now is to try to isolate the noise..go through the MCCT adjustment procedure and see if it quiets down. If it does, well, you at least know where it came from and up to you whether or not a chain replacement should be done. It would be wise to do so IMO..

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ok, I printed out the MCCT tutorial, and valve inspection tutorial. I'll try and identify the source of noise tonight. I know it would be a good choice to replace the cam chain, but E. Marquez lives near me. I'm hoping to hire him to go through my DRZ when he gets back from Afghanistan....I'm not the most knowledgeable mechanically and refuse to pay a by trade mechanic to rip me off again.

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Ok, would like your guys' thoughts. I couldn't find the TDC via the flywheel. It appeared to be oil obstructing my view, however, I have the trail tech flywheel so I don't know if being able to see it would have helped anyway.

I think I got it to TDC, but the lobes aren't 10 and 2. Since I have webcams is the picture below how they should look? They're the 288/293 grind the specs for the intake are .006-.008 and exhaust is .008-.012. The previous owner who was very knowledgable noted the lash at .006 intake, .008 exhaust. My measurements showed .007 intake, .010 exhaust. I'm still concerned about the lobes being different positions. Any expert opinions?

I also should note, I rode the bike pretty hard trying to keep up with my buddy on his KTM690, and the bike died a few times at stop lights and took a while to get started again. Also, when I do a stoppie the bike dies and takes a

while to start again...

IMAG0124.jpg

IMAG0123.jpg

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I think it's time to sell the DRZ and buy yourself a KTM to keep up with your friend. :thumbsup:

Sorry for this non-informative, troll post. :ride:

Ah thumpertalk, how I've missed you.

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Ok, would like your guys' thoughts. I couldn't find the TDC via the flywheel. It appeared to be oil obstructing my view, however, I have the trail tech flywheel so I don't know if being able to see it would have helped anyway.

I think I got it to TDC, but the lobes aren't 10 and 2. Since I have webcams is the picture below how they should look? They're the 288/293 grind the specs for the intake are .006-.008 and exhaust is .008-.012. The previous owner who was very knowledgable noted the lash at .006 intake, .008 exhaust. My measurements showed .007 intake, .010 exhaust. I'm still concerned about the lobes being different positions. Any expert opinions?

I also should note, I rode the bike pretty hard trying to keep up with my buddy on his KTM690, and the bike died a few times at stop lights and took a while to get started again. Also, when I do a stoppie the bike dies and takes a

while to start again...

IMAG0124.jpg

IMAG0123.jpg

Is your headgasket weeping in that last pic???

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Is your headgasket weeping in that last pic???

No...I don't think so, I believe it's the glare.

MXrider14 is the KTM friend. Thanks for the helpful post bro! I'm going to sneek into your garage and install a governor on your bike.... with a wireless remote which will be mounted to my handelbars. I think I'd go for the 470 kit before a KTM! :thumbsup:

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So does anyone have any thoughts on the positioning of the lobes? They're supposed to be 10 and 2 correct?

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i have a 470 stroker with rhc cams and my bike died when i did stoppies and at stop lights. i also had the trail tech lightweight flywheel. but when i switched it back to stock all the problems went away. i think its just to light.

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you dont have the tdc mark in the middle of the inspection hole.

Eddie, all I could see in the inspection hole was oil. Also, it's a trail tech flywheel...does the TT flywheel have the TDC mark?

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yep no marks on a trail tech.

if you truly have the motor at tdc then the cam timing is definately wrong and the noise you are hearing is the valves hitting the piston.

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Ben, Sorry it took me so long to reply. I marked the TT flywheel that I put in that bike. I am assuming that's the new FW that TT sent right? Did you ever remove the cams?

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Hey Jared, no worries, and thanks for helping me out. Yes the new TT FW has been in for awhile, and of course I didn't think or know to mark it. I didn't take the cams out, but I did use the 17mm bolt to rotate the cams instead of the wheel as I did before. This way was easier to watch the cams rotate and I was able to get them in a position that looked more like 10 and 2. I spoke with my dad about who's a motorcycle enthusiast and cummins mechanic (but lives in Hawaii), he said it could possibly be the bottom end or crank bearing...what do you think? Should I button everything back up and adjust the MCCT?

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Hey Jared, no worries, and thanks for helping me out. Yes the new TT FW has been in for awhile, and of course I didn't think or know to mark it. I didn't take the cams out, but I did use the 17mm bolt to rotate the cams instead of the wheel as I did before. This way was easier to watch the cams rotate and I was able to get them in a position that looked more like 10 and 2. I spoke with my dad about who's a motorcycle enthusiast and cummins mechanic (but lives in Hawaii), he said it could possibly be the bottom end or crank bearing...what do you think? Should I button everything back up and adjust the MCCT?

I highly doubt its the low end, but who knows. You need to get the motor back to TDC to check the valve lash. If your clearances are in spec its got to be the tension on the cam chain. Where exactly is the noise coming from?

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Jared, the noise was coming from the top end, and got louder at higher RPM. I don't know how to go about finding TDC without the mark on the FW. Any suggestions? The cam chain didn't appear to be loose...

This is where I was at last night. I measure the valves in this position and they were well within spec...

IMAG0125.jpg

IMAG0126.jpg

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Jared, the noise was coming from the top end, and got louder at higher RPM. I don't know how to go about finding TDC without the mark on the FW. Any suggestions? The cam chain didn't appear to be loose...

This is where I was at last night. I measure the valves in this position and they were well within spec...

IMAG0125.jpg

IMAG0126.jpg

The cam lobes are in the right position. YOu can sort of eye ball ball it with the lines and numbers on the cams and it will be close to TDC. I would think if they are in spec at that position, you should be ok. I would button it all back up and go through the MCCT adjustment. It's hard to hear on my computer, it just sounds to me that the cam chain needs adjustment. Let me know.

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Ok...well I checked out the valve clearances, and they're good. Went through the MCCT adjustment...it seems to be fine. It's more of a knock that knocks with the piston stroke, and it's coming from the top end. I don't know if you can hear it in these video. The last part of the 2nd vid is where it's most pronounced.

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