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2012 crf250r

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The bike is 4 weeks old and has already destroyed 2 clutches, both stock from honda. Latest one lasted 1 race day plus half a practice. Honda Japan say its not a fault with the bike because the clutches have burnt out. Not sure wether to put heavy duty springs or expensive aftermarket clutch?:thumbsup:

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Something does not sound kosher there, not to sound dumb, but is the clutch fully engaged, possible there is some pressure on the clutch. check to make sure the arm on the case has some play. I like 1/16" to 1/8 play" this is first I am hearing a clutch issue.

Chet

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stock perch and lever?

You have to play close attention to the free play and flat out NOT use/slip the clutch.

I have had many a customer swear to me they dont slip it - then turn their clutch lever up - and they quickly realize they use it way too much...

On the 10's and 11 with some added hp - full hinson set up is the only thing we could do to make it live - WITH much stiffer springs. In fact the spring we ended up with is not listed from hinson for the bike....it's out of something else.

We also found that the asv perch/lever was a bad set up and caused some of the initial issues.

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Thanks for quick reply, when the last one gave up we opened the bike up at the track and ground 5mm off the push rod in a vain attempt to get the clutch to bite, it helped a bit ie: the bike would self propel itself but as soon as you opened up the throttle it would immediately slip. After the first clutch i was suspicious and ensured plenty of play on the lever. My concern is that the fault re-occurs having just brought the thing and immediately get a bill from honda for $180 for new clutch plates. When the second clutch burnt out the play that was on the lever vanished completely!!! confused and dissapointed with what is otherwise a very nice machine!

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The levers are stock, only thing we've done is suspension set-up.

My 17 year old kid races the bike (intermediate) he gives the clutch a hard time but always has and the only other clutch he ever killed was on a 2008 kx125.

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What kind of bull crap is this people just got these bikes and Honda won't cover that. If it happened once I can understand but twice there must be a issue. Why should you have to put an expensive aftermarket on it they should make the bike so the oem is good unless your a top racer.

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Something is not fitted correctly, or the rider might need some adjustment.

Its not difficult to take the clutch cover off and inspect the assembly.

I would replace the springs and fibers and start over, making sure the spring pack is pressurizing the clutch pack. and then be sure there's no pressure on the pressure plate, and the rod is moving freely.

We normally get a full season from the stock clutches with 3 heavy springs and 2 oem springs.

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I also had a lot of lever play the first time I rode my '12 hard. I'm not a clutch abuser and didn't have this problem with my '10. My theory is it's partially caused by the extra torque the motor has. I tested stiffer Hinson springs and a

Pro X clutch rod and now the problem is solved.

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cheers! i think stiffer springs seem to be the way ahead so i'll get some.

thanks

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Apparently the oem clutch rod expands at a different rate than the cases and when the motor gets hot, the clutch gets loose and you have to keep adjusting tighter on the fly. When bike cools down the clutch is reallt tight with no play and you have to loosen the cable before riding again. Maybe you are not loosening the clutch cable after it cools or maybe you don't adjust as it heats up so when you use it it doesn't fully dissengage but slipps and burns the plates.

The Prox clutch rod is supposed to cure this issue. Stiffer springs do help the clutch.

Get rid of judder springs/rings and replace inside thin fiber with the thicker/wider outer fibers.

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Thanks for all the suggestions, honda have actually come up trumps and are going to fix the bike for free now, i'm still going to order some stiffer springs.:thumbsup:

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The clutch cables bind on those bikes which can cause premature wear.

Also after first clutch fried, you probably toasted pressure plate... Maybe hub.

Anything from that point on will fry plates in short order.

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Apparently the oem clutch rod expands at a different rate than the cases and when the motor gets hot, the clutch gets loose and you have to keep adjusting tighter on the fly. When bike cools down the clutch is reallt tight with no play and you have to loosen the cable before riding again. Maybe you are not loosening the clutch cable after it cools or maybe you don't adjust as it heats up so when you use it it doesn't fully dissengage but slipps and burns the plates.

The Prox clutch rod is supposed to cure this issue. Stiffer springs do help the clutch.

Get rid of judder springs/rings and replace inside thin fiber with the thicker/wider outer fibers.

I have the same issues with clutch expansion....I have to keep a close eye on it when racing,,,which is a hassle.

So, I'm constantly adjusting it.

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Thanks for all the advice guy's, we put some tokyo mods springs in which i got from BTO and 2 races in the clutch is perfect, bike actually has more pull now (strange) but good.

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How much were those springs?

Is there anything I need to do to my 2012 after I ride it to prevent this? So far after 3 hours I still have as much play as there was when the bike was new.

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the only thing i did ,i replace the first smaller frictionplate with a friction plate like the others and puth a extra steel drive plate in .

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