Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Hydraulic Clutch Mystery

Recommended Posts

I have a new 2011 Husaberg FE570S with no more than 60 miles on it. On the last ride I thought I noticed that the clutch lever needed to be pulled a little farther to disengage, but it was so subtle that I thought I might have imagined it. On the very next attempt to ride, there is no disengagement of the clutch when the lever is pulled. The clutch lever feels OK (it's got a good stout spring), but the clutch itself will not disengage when the lever is pulled. There are no leaks evident, all connections seem snug enough, and there is enough fluid in the reservoir. With the reservoir cover off, when I pull the lever a series of bubbles comes out of the little orifice in the middle. Does anybody know what's going on???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of new bikes go through this, I dont why but it's common. Bleed your system and you'll be fine!:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The dealer I bought the bike from just two months ago has folded. The outfit that bought the KTM/Husaberg franchise (a Victory dealer, of all things), is 150 miles away. They seem responsive, though. They're going to send me a new o-ring and a quart of Husaberg clutch oil. It'll be interesting to see what they charge me for the clutch oil, because Bike Bandit has it for $3.15. (I hit all three auto parts chains and both motorcycle shops in my town yesterday afternoon, and none of them had hydraulid fluid that was compatible with the KTM/Husaberg ISO VG(15) specification.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting development. I ordered the Husaberg hydraulic clutch oil from Bike Bandit ($3.15), and they came back with the information that the product has been discontinued and no longer available. I quickly ordered the KTM hydraulic clutch oil (also $3.15), in hopes that KTM is simply consolidating part numbers. I don't know yet whether the order for the KTM oil will be filled.

In separate corresponcence with Warren Oil Corporation (you may be familiar with their Coastal lubricants), the Corporate Vice President for Quality & Technology informed me that the Coastal hydraulic clutch oil is NOT compatible with the Husaberg/KTM ISO VG(15) specification. He told me that Husaberg specifies Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75. Can anybody verify that, please?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
He told me that Husaberg specifies Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75. Can anybody verify that, please?

sounds right. Is it magura or brembo on that? I bet your slave or master cylinder seal is having issues. If it is the slave you will never see it leak as it leaks into the motor. Semi common issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Magura, and it says, "Use only mineral oil," right on the master cylinder cap. The manual specifies ISO VG(15), whatever that may mean. Motorex's web site does not give the specification for their Hydraulic Fluid 75, so I've sent them an e-mail inquiry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Magura, and it says, "Use only mineral oil," right on the master cylinder cap. The manual specifies ISO VG(15), whatever that may mean. Motorex's web site does not give the specification for their Hydraulic Fluid 75, so I've sent them an e-mail inquiry.

Most of us have found many substitutes for the magura blood. Search "magura blood" here on TT and read for days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mineral oil is the same thing that is in baby oil, like Johnsons & Johnsons. That Is what I have used in the past with no problems. If you get the scented your bike will be "Baby Fresh".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There seems to have been a rash of bad QC at the master cylinder manufacturers this year :thumbsup:

Try taking the plunger out of the bore and draining the master cylinder. Carefully inspect the MC orifices for machining debris and clear out whatever you find as even the tiniest piece can wreak havoc on the system. If your seals look good on the plunger, reassemble and then force fluid up from the bottom. Gently actuate the lever until the bubbles stop (you may have to empty the MC reservoir a couple times) and then button it back up.

I've used Magura Blood but don't really like the blue stain it leaves (might be nice on a Berg though). Pick up some mineral oil at you local drug store instead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've read elsewhere that 2.5 or 5 weight fork oil will work. Does anyone know what weight oil the ISO VG(15) specifiction translates to?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A hydraulic clutch system is a master cylinder, line and slave cylinder , no rocket sience at all. The magura system works with mineral oil because it is better to have mineral oil in the engine than brake fluid if the slave cylinder leaks.

You can use motor oil( the lighter the better) , ATF, fork oil, baby oil.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Results of visit to Shoals Outdoor Sports, in Muscle Shoals, Alabama.

- They are the only KTM/Husaberg dealer in the northern third of the state. I was wrong, they are indeed a Husaberg as well as KTM dealer.

- They did not have in stock either the KTM or Husaberg brand mineral oil for hydraulic clutch use. I thought that was kind of odd.

- They DID have a good stock of Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75, a mineral oil product out of Switzerland.

- The Motorex product is NOT labled that it meets the KTM/Husaberg specification of ISO VG(15).

- Cost for the Motorex product is $9.95 for a 100ml (3.5 fl.oz) bottle. (That's $27.36 per gallon, BTW. Good thing the 'Berg doesn't burn it for fuel!) I bought three bottles - two for me, and one for a BMW GS rider friend of mine.

- Shoals Outdoor Sports did NOT have the 0-ring seal (PN 0770300015) for the slave cylinder in stock, but they ordered two for me at a cost of $1.33 each. I advised them that it's a common failure and that for customer service purposes they might consider keeping a few in stock.

Results from the garage:

I dismounted the slave cylinder and reverse bled it using a bleed syringe. I didn't get much air out of it - only a little. Put the cylinder back on the engine, and had no clutch funtion. Repeated the process, and still not a hint of clutch function. Have appointment to take bike to dealership next Saturday. They may or may not be able to fix the bike while I wait, so I may wind up making the trip twice.

Am pretty sure that the part I ordered (PN 0770300015) is NOT the piston seal, but rather the seal between the slave cylinder body and the engine. Apparently if you want to use KTM/Husaberg parts to fix the slave cylinder, the part you order is the whole slave cylinder. At this point I am not certain whether the fault resides in the master cylinder or the slave cylinder, and I'm going to let the dealer fool with it under warranty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's the mineral oil setup I've used ATF on my KTM with excellent results.I would imagine the would be even better than min. oil if it should leak. Good Luck,Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took the bike to the dealer today and learned something.

I had reverse bled the clutch system and gotten some air out at the master cylinder. I put the slave cylinder back on the bike and tested clutch function by trying to turn the rear wheel with the transmission in 1st gear and the clutch lever pulled. That, evidently, was my mistake. I should have ridden the bike, but I had no idea that the rear wheel won't turn with the clutch lever pulled if the bike is in gear. That's so weird that I would never have thought of it. The mechanic at the dealer told me that these bikes will not roll in gear with the clutch pulled. He found that I had a fully functioning clutch. I should have ridden the thing.

FYI, I'm pretty sure that I induced the problem by pulling the clutch lever while the bike was horizontal. I had a minor low-speed get-off, and the motor was still running and the rear wheel still turning with the bike resting on its side. Rather than hit the kill switch, I pulled the clutch lever before standing the bike up. DO NOT DO THAT. You'll get air in the clutch line. Now I know to use the kill switch if the bike ever ends up on its side again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×