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removing the air screen on a 2011

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I seen they are selling a kit to do this they claim it will give more snap off the bottom has anyone tried this?

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Bad idea. Kawasaki engineers put the screen there for a reason. Unless you are top A rider, you will likely not be able to benefit from the increase in performance.

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If you do, make sure you use a filter that is flame resistant such as a k&n. Or cv4. Ever seen one backfire and catch on fire? I have it's not pretty.

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Don't agree. Removing the screen will give you really nice throttle response. On my 2009 I tried one of these http://www.loudmouthmx.com/ and it made a HUGE difference in low end grunt.

No Toil also make a kit that includes a flame resistant filter.

Bad idea. Kawasaki engineers put the screen there for a reason. Unless you are top A rider, you will likely not be able to benefit from the increase in performance.

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The main benefit i see in removing the screen is if you drop any dirt when doing filter u will be able to see it in boot. With screen u cant tell if dirt is on screen or in boot.

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With the screen in place, large dirt clumps & FOD typically found in the air box will not fall inside. BUT I agree, it is nice to be able to see inside the boot!

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If you do, make sure you use a filter that is flame resistant such as a k&n. Or cv4. Ever seen one backfire and catch on fire? I have it's not pretty.

How many years ago was this?? I seen this also but over 30 years ago. New modern 4t don't have this problem and if correctly running 2t won't either. All my bikes have this screen removed. One bike needed a large jetting change because the screen was very restrictive.

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I remove mine from every bike I have owned with one. By the seat of the pants it does feel slightly more responsive. I do have a couple of the flame resistant filters in the rotation along with two stock ones, no issues currently with fire. The throttle response does feel better but mainly I like to see in the intake boot on every filter change with out needing to remove the sub frame to take a peek.

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The main benefit i see in removing the screen is if you drop any dirt when doing filter u will be able to see it in boot. With screen u cant tell if dirt is on screen or in boot.

X2. I use the P.C.kit with pro-seal so no need to grease.

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How many years ago was this?? I seen this also but over 30 years ago. New modern 4t don't have this problem and if correctly running 2t won't either. All my bikes have this screen removed. One bike needed a large jetting change because the screen was very restrictive.

Your right, they don't if you leave the screen in, take it out and it can happen, I've seen it on late model 4t

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I have some filters that are ready to toss out. Next dirty one I'm going to see how easy I can burn it with no-toil on it.

I cut out my screen so I can wipe clean inside the air boot. I got worried about dirt falling off the outside of the filter when removing it. Because it's a tight fit.

The edge of the screen forms a 1.5mm thick gasket. So after removing the whole thing, I cut the screen out, and used the clamped part as a gasket. Also used some silicone sealant between boot and airbox.

I was happy to find that without the screen I get smoother power roll on at low revs.

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What happens is when you lug it down to a stall, it can backfire and blows gas into the filter causing a fire, once you get the filter burning away it goes. using no toil is a step in the right direction as it is not a petroleum product, in fact the CV-4 filters us no toil, maybe they are no toil, not sure but they are flame retardant.

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I could care less about any performance issues. The problem I have is that you can't clean dirt out of the boot. I don't care how careful you are, there is almost no way to guarantee that dirt will not fall into the screen and get trapped there. This drives me crazy every time I clean my filter and it is the only reason I will remove my screen. Kawasaki should do it like Honda where the screen is built into the filter cage instead. Currently I have to use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much sand as I can but it's not easy. If it goes through the screen then you have to pull the subframe to clean it out. I sincerely doubt much of a difference in power and you may even lose a little bottom end (for top end gain) but for me the service issue is the biggest reason to do it. Just make sure to use a flame proof filter and all will be fine

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Currently I have to use a vacuum cleaner to suck out as much sand as I can but it's not easy. If it goes through the screen then you have to pull the subframe to clean it out.
I removed mine for the same reason - it's hard to remove a dirty filter. How often do you see sand that has got past your filter? I ride a lot of sand or sandy dirt, and if I remove the thing ok, I've never seen signs of anything getting past my TwinAir filter. I have never once greased the rim of the filter either. I usually have to peel the filter base off because it's stuck so well, and I'm careful not to over tighten the mount bolt. I' not saying nothing gets thru, just that it's not visibly in the air box.

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Does any body have trouble starting 2011 or 2012 kx450f? Mine is hard to start, with out cracking the throttle a lil bit? I end up flooding it and wearing myself out trying to re start it...

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I remove mine from every bike I have owned with one. By the seat of the pants it does feel slightly more responsive. I do have a couple of the flame resistant filters in the rotation along with two stock ones, no issues currently with fire. The throttle response does feel better but mainly I like to see in the intake boot on every filter change with out needing to remove the sub frame to take a peek.

Just wanted to confirm this is my exact same experience, many bikes ago I did this and got good low end perf boost, been doing it every since, not a single issue, I do check bikes jetting afterwards to be sure all is right and I will not have a bike that backfires (easy to fix). Also, I read just recently on a factory riders website that none of their bikes have the backfire screens in spite of what their managers like to tell the public. My 2011 KX450 has had this for a year now, runs great, better than stock, used PC kit. P.S. Cleaning and inspecting is improved also.

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What happens is when you lug it down to a stall, it can backfire and blows gas into the filter causing a fire, once you get the filter burning away it goes. using no toil is a step in the right direction as it is not a petroleum product, in fact the CV-4 filters us no toil, maybe they are no toil, not sure but they are flame retardant.

Don't mean to pick at you, but try exercising more throttle and clutch control to minimize stalling, you will go faster, I've noticed that the guys in the front rarely stall and despite everything they tell you, all factory pros have the screens removed.

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Does any body have trouble starting 2011 or 2012 kx450f? Mine is hard to start, with out cracking the throttle a lil bit? I end up flooding it and wearing myself out trying to re start it...

In my experience, something is wrong with your ride. I have not seen another FI kaw that is hard to start in any situation as long as it is in neutral and all systems are functioning as designed. Tell us more about your symptoms (more clues) and we will see if we can help.

I just stalled mine while leading a race yesterday. About 10 minuets into it I think I got a little heavy on the rear break. I pulled the clutch in, left it in second gear, patiently brought it up to near tdc on compression and one swift kick fired it up.

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