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2003 yzf 250

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hope I'm not repeating any past threads, dont want to get told off.

After lots of deliberation and bike searching, I have settled on, and take delivery of a 2003 yzf250 tommorow.

Seller says it had some valve work done some months ago, and was not ridden since, and is "tricky to start"

I am picking fuel and carb type of issues.

Can anyone tell me a recommended starting procedure for this model to get me nearer to correct starting styles, as my last bike was a Dr200 with electric start.

Thanks in advance, love this TT site.

Troy, New Zealand.

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"Tricky to start" can either mean old gas, and cold outside like it did in my case. Or it can mean a clogged carb (and probably bad gas)... Or it could mean the valves need work... Ask if he has receipts for the work done. You can also crack the bowl drain open a little and see if it smells like bad gas coming out.

In normal summer riding conditions, choke on and a good kick or two should be all you need to start. That is, provided the jetting is correct.

In winter / colder conditions, lots of guys like to use choke on and give it a snap or two of the throttle (using the accelerator pump to squirt some gas into the intake) and then a few good kicks.

Does the bike have auto decompression cams (2004+) installed?

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I have an 03 and pretty much as described above. Summer - usually I give 2 half twists of the throttle and kick with no enrichener. Winter - same throttle twists but use the enrichener also. Usually starts in 2 kicks or so. I run 1/2 race gas / pump gas which helps with stuff that sits. I don't know what your pump gas consists of over there but the 10% ethanol to me seems to degrade faster and the first sign I have noticed is that anything that sits gets hard to start. I would start with fresh gas and pull the bowl at least so you know what's going on. You can get the bowl off without even pulling the carb - just screw the hot start plunger out, loosen the airbox boot and carb to head boot and roll it over to remove the screws. At least that way you know where you stand. Clay

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It's an 03, so should have auto decomp exhaust cam already. I would assume that since seller says its had valve work done, valves have moved. So ask seller if the valves were adjusted, or just clearance checked and didn't need adjustment. Hard cold starts is indicator of valve clearance closing up. Owner allowed air filter to clog up and dirt to pass thru. Ask owner to pull the seat so you can inspect the air filter. Remove the air filter so you can see the intake boot. If there is a dust film in the boot, dirt has passed thru the filter and the intake valves are wearing and will need replaced at $53 each and seats cut. Not major if you can do the majority of the wrenching, but you should negotiate price at that point, or just walk from the deal. If he's in the $1200 or lower range, then he will not be willing to negotiate much. Also check the wheel bearings and linkage bearings for loosness and movement, and brake pads and chain and sprocket set for wear. All are negotiating points. Good luck.

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Thanks guys, unit has a brand new chain and sprockets, no oil leaks and apparently is not a noisey / rattly engine, unfortunately I bought it from a remote location where I risked the deal from photos and a few phone calls...I can be a bit trusting sometimes...if you dont risk, you dont gain is my motto, well now and then....

The bike cost $1800 NZD, about $1500 USD.

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ronbuell said it all. If you already have it and are having any trouble starting it I would check valve clearance. especially if milking the throttle when cold thereby using the accelerator pump doesn't work

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well I get the dam thing, it is tidy enough and give it 10 minutes of kicking over...nothing.

I leave it and sneak home for lunch from work, and 3 kicks it burps, 2 more and it's a runner!

I take it for a ride up the road and being quite careful still manage 3rd gear on 1 wheel, these are total rockets and i am going to have to be careful....41 year old bones take a while to heal.

The oil is clean, the air filter, chain and sprockets are brandnew, and it starts fine.... I am hoping I am onto a winner after the initial risk.

Only immediate thing to do is fork seals...I will check youtube or similar for a 2 minute vid!

I think I love this bike already!:busted:

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:busted: Yeah, I don't think I'll ever get rid of my '04, It's just so much fun to ride!

I would still check the valve clearances though... You never know what a guy will say to sell a bike! It's pretty easy, you just need a thin enough feeler gauge.

Forks are a piece of cake to do as well. You'll need two bottles of fork oil, and a large catch tray helps, too. No special tools are required, but a seal driver will help a lot.

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anyone think you could still race a bike of this vintage? thinking about getting my suspension done and running the over 40 C class (2004 250f).

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