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Is this to much oil from crankcase vent?

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First thing for clarification. Would this hose, under the ACCT, from the cylinder to the oil catch tank be called the Crankcase Vent?

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A few days ago I notice a lot of oil around the carb and starter area. I suspected one of these hoses came loose. Well, the oil seamed to be coming from the "crankcase vent" where it meets the oil catch tank. I disconnected it and started the bike. It seemed to me that a lot of oil was coming out of it when the bike is running. When the bike is idling I can see small droplets of oil coming out of it. Is this too much? What could be causing this? Blow by around the piston and cylinder. I was already planning on taking my motor apart to check for cyclinder wear this winter (really, mustly just as an excuse to add a bigbore kit). I also know my cam chain needs to be replaced, and my acct changed to a mcct. The bike seems to run good. I made a crappy video with the cell phone. because of the low quality, it may not help much. Towards the end you can see my finger pushing on the end of the hose. This is when I could really see the oil spray. Thanks for your input.

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Sounds normal. I know mine sprays oil like crazy from that tube if it's left loose. I accidentally left it off after working on it a while back. Covered my shock and swingarm with oil.

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that hose is the drain to the crankcase from the seperator(black box)yes oil is supost to drain back to the crankcase from the seperator.the hose from the top that goes into the seoerator comes from the valve cover and oil vapors and some raw oil comes down that tube and thren drains to the crancase.the other hose that runs to the intake directs uncondensed oil vapors to the intake to be reburned

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that hose is the drain to the crankcase from the seperator(black box)yes oil is supost to drain back to the crankcase from the seperator.the hose from the top that goes into the seoerator comes from the valve cover and oil vapors and some raw oil comes down that tube and thren drains to the crancase.the other hose that runs to the intake directs uncondensed oil vapors to the intake to be reburned

That makes sense:thumbsup:. I was worried all that oil was eventually ending up going back through the carb. I was thinking if all that oil was going through the carb, I should be shouting out a lot of blue smoke, which it is not.

I guess part of me is just paronoid because I have almost 15000 miles and the cam chain is worn. Part of me also wants something to be wrong so I can justify a big bore kit. I think tomorrow I'm going to order a "Leak down tester." I had one but someone broke into my garage and stoled my tool box a few years ago. I'm also going to change out that hose.

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Ookay, I recognize that old clock spring style cam chain adjuster. Many people say bad things out them. My opinion is they are not that bad as long a they don't break and they do have a tendency to fail. You might want to think about changing it to the manual style replacement.

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Ookay, I recognize that old clock spring style cam chain adjuster. Many people say bad things out them. My opinion is they are not that bad as long a they don't break and they do have a tendency to fail. You might want to think about changing it to the manual style replacement.

I ordered a "leak down tester" from ebay yesterday to check the condition of my top end. If it's good I will be just replacing the timing chain and switching to a MCCT. Does anyone know when it is recommended to change the coolant hoses?

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I Does anyone know when it is recommended to change the coolant hoses?

Right before they leak :busted:

If they are not now, and not weather checked, hard, budging, or physically damaged by cuts or other, they are good.

On a pre 2003 engine, (old, old style ACCT dates it there at least) a fresh set of coolant hoses is never a bad idea.

How about a fresh set of hoses coupled with some updated looks.. Get a set of Silicone hoes in color of your choice. At between $54 and $85 depending on which company you get them from and color you want. It is not a bad maintenance part replacement coupled with something nice looking.

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After getting home there was oil everywhere. It's hard to tell where it's coming from. It looks like the oil catch tank is leaking, but I don't think thats really possible. My best guess is that it could be leaking from the ACCT which I had off in the spring when I installed new cams. There is no oil up by the valve cover. Hopefully tomorrow I can check. I know it's not leaking from the gas tank, seat, starter, carburator, rear tire, the air intake box, or the exhaust system. so I'm starting to limit some possibilities.

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Ookay, I recognize that old clock spring style cam chain adjuster. Many people say bad things out them. My opinion is they are not that bad as long a they don't break and they do have a tendency to fail. You might want to think about changing it to the manual style replacement.

take the advice :busted:

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It is very possible the fat lower vent hose (the oil return from the seperator) has split.

Ya, I took that out right away. It looks good. I don't remember that well, but I think when I took the ACCT out there was a gasket that I reused (my bad, it was late at night).

I am going to take a look at things tomorrow. There is no reason to order anything tonight since the mail won't go out until Monday. I will be getting a ThumperTalk MCCT (Comes with an oring:thumbsup:) and wiseco chain. Unless the tsubaki Chains are a lot better (big bucks) http://www.bigborethumpers.com/chain.html

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The first Thing I checked was the oil seperator tank for leaks. Although doubtful it was easy to pressure check.

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Since that was holding a good amount of pressure, I removed the ACCT (yes, the one I should replace. I found oil through the gasket (the gasket I had reused this early this summer) and around the ACCT mounting surface. So, I'm going with this is my oil leak.

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I'm embarred to admit I reused this gasket. It was late at night.

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Well If the ACCT is off and I have to order a new gasket, I might as well order a MCCT from ThumperTalk. And if I have to wait for that to come I might as well replace the Timing Chain. I was going to show a picture of how far my cams where out of time last spring but really I've already made a fool of myself. So here is a picture of my Cam Chain. When I get a new one I will post them side by side and we can see if there is much difference in length.

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This week my leak down tester should be coming in the mail. I think I should be able to do a leakdown test with the cams out. I want to get a good idea of the condition of my piston before I start to put things back together.

By the way, my clutch and springs are still within spec. The OEM clutch is a great product.

oh ya, I might as well replace the radiator hoses with a nice color since I drained the radiator.

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I like your thinking process.. :busted: You seem to be all over the right track for getting that engine back in running leak free order.

I world internet agree.. :bonk: your leak is likely from the ACCT gasket.

The oil recovery tank can crack, be melted ect, but your diagnostic pressure testing at 1.5 ATM or better should remove that concern. :busted:

As long as it's apart, I would do the reliability fix’s for the primary nut and counter balancer nut.

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As long as it's apart, I would do the reliability fix’s for the primary nut and counter balancer nut.

I just added red loctite to my list of things to buy:thumbsup:.

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I'm kind of angry with thumper talk, I received my order on Saturday but the receipt said the MCCT is backordered. On line it says pending. To me pending means its coming soon and backordered means it could be months:foul:.

I got the new timing Chain in the mail. I'm a little disappointed, it is almost the exact same length as the old one:banghead:. The ACCT didn't seem to be too rough on this chain. At least with the MCCT I will have a better idea of how the timing chain is doing. I'm I wasting my time?

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I did a leak down test and got 10 percent, which I know is relative to the tester but I was hoping for something under 5. Maybe I'll test it again after I get a MCCT and the engine is warmed up.

I thought this might be helpful to someone. the distance to the new cam chain was between 1 3/8 and 1 7/16 of an inch.

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Here is cam timing, as you can see the cams are not perfect even with a new cam chain.

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I will update this thread when everything is running or destroyed.

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I'm kind of angry with thumper talk, I received my order on Saturday but the receipt said the MCCT is backordered. On line it says pending. To me pending means its coming soon and backordered means it could be months:foul:.

Perhaps talk with a TT store person, they do not really read all the different forums looking for concerns to address, and I bet if you talk with them, they will be interested in hearing the concern. .

I always place a note in my online orders telling the company what action I want them to take if an item is not available for shipment. Might try that next time..

I got the new timing Chain in the mail. I'm a little disappointed, it is almost the exact same length as the old one:banghead:. The ACCT didn't seem to be too rough on this chain.

In the mail? So a new OEM one or? How far was the ACCT extended with the old chain? That is really the “tester” of a worn chain as well as cams that do not align.

The wear is minimal as seen on comparing them visually as you are doing. The wear in the individual links and plates is very small on each, but add up over all.

At least with the MCCT I will have a better idea of how the timing chain is doing. I'm I wasting my time?

No matter now, you have the new chain, and will add a MCCT as well.. Still a good idea.

I did a leak down test and got 10 percent, which I know is relative to the tester but I was hoping for something under 5.

Is that 10% on a used motor/ after a new top end? If new, after some break in?

Here is cam timing, as you can see the cams are not perfect even with a new cam chain.

Looks like both cams are slightly retarded. Did you have a cam chain tensioner installed when you took that picture?

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I didn't know how to tell how far the ACCT was extended because when I removed it the push rod snaps all the way out. I once saw a picture of a cam chain that was way longer. I bought a wisesco chain. I realize that could make a difference. I guess after the work you want to see something real apparent. Your right, If the old chain and ACCt I was worried about reliability.

10% leak down was with the old cylinder, but it hasn't been run for about a week. Does 10% seem high to you? I will try it with a warm cylinder

I do not have the MCCT so the timing was with the finger tensior. I think you gave me that idea from another thread.

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I forgot to show this picture. I found this when I took the side cover off. I think its probably been there since the beginning of time, so I'm not worried about where this piece of Aluminum is from. Maybe the factory.

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I didn't know how to tell how far the ACCT was extended because when I removed it the push rod snaps all the way out. I once saw a picture of a cam chain that was way longer. I bought a wisesco chain. I realize that could make a difference. I guess after the work you want to see something real apparent. Your right, If the old chain and ACCt I was worried about reliability.

10% leak down was with the old cylinder, but it hasn't been run for about a week. Does 10% seem high to you? I will try it with a warm cylinder

I do not have the MCCT so the timing was with the finger tensior. I think you gave me that idea from another thread.

Which ACCT do you have the older version? or the newer one with the cap and spring?

If the newer one, once you remove the cap and spring, there is no pressure on the plunger, take it out of the head at that point and you know how far it was extended.

On the older design.. a little harder as you "wind it up" from the small hole in the back with a small flat blade screwdriver.

OK, so an aftermarket chain,, ya not really sure, never used one myself, always used OEM chains. No way to guess if they manufacture it in an exact replication of the OEM part that would give like results or if it’s different enough to give different results with cam timing.

10% on my gauge set is not .. Replace the top end NOW high… But it would be higher than wanted on a fresh top end.

Ok, the Finger Manual CCT may be the reason your cams are not aligned, or it could be the aftermarket timing chain, or, the crank is not at TDC (though from your picture it looks like it is. )

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10% on my gauge set is not .. Replace the top end NOW high… But it would be higher than wanted on a fresh top end.

I may be slow but this is important. Are you Saying I should replace my top end?

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