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TTR 110 Performance Mods


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Anyone try much in the way of getting a little more power out of their TTR110 yet?? I was wondering how much the GYTR jet kit helped the performance, or whether or not it was worth messing with. If you have done any aftermarket exhaust, etc, please let me know what you thought of the performance increase.

Thanks,

C

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  • 2 weeks later...

In answer to my own question, and just so everyone else can benefit from the knowledge, here is what I have done to my TTR110 and how it helped.

1. First off, my son bent the shifter on a rock very early on, and the TTR90/110 shift levers are interchangeable. Moose makes a folding tip shift lever for about $30.

2. I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket of the bike ($10) and this made a huge improvement in lugging power. The bike is a 4-speed and still has plenty of top speed as it actually pulls itself better now in 4th gear. This was the best "mod" i did to the bike.

3. I did the GYTR jet kit, which was not as easy to install as I thought it would be. I did not see any increase in power with the jet kit, but at least I have some options for jetting now if I decide to do a pipe or go riding at extremely high altitudes as I do in Colorado on occasion (>12,000FT).

4. Dunlop Geomax tires front and rear were a large improvement over the very weak-shelled stock cheng shins.

5. I did not feel the stock exhaust was highly restrictive as I have seen smaller exhaust ports on the stock WR 250 and 450's, so I left the exhaust alone.

If anyone else found a large gain by adding exhaust and or intake mods please let me know.

Thanks,

C

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  • 3 years later...

I am amazed at how little info is out there on this bike.Thanks for the tip on the front cog,L

I will do that along with the tires. Also ours was very hard to shift impossible for my son and even hard for me. Adjusting the clutch made a huge improvement.

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  • 1 year later...

C-man do you remember what your stock main was? I just bought a ttr110 last week brand new. I put a fmf power core 4, gytr air filter on it and I'm still running lean with a 95 main. I bought the jet kit as well and did put in the 15 pilot jet. Also with the new air filter does yours sound like it sucking a golf ball through a garden hose. I mean it's a loud sucking sound. Kinda scared me at first.

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Ttr 110s are Yamaha's bastard child. There is very limited performance mod info and not much in the way of aftermarket parts...unless you look REALLY hard. There is plenty of info and parts available for smaller Yamaha's and larger ones, but not 110s.

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  • 1 year later...

I have a 2016 ttr110.  I bought the after market air filter that Yamaha sells along with the jet kit.  I took the air filter box off and took the vacuum line back and zip tied it to the frame and put a little filter on it.  I’m in MN and the bike came with a stock 92 main I think and I had to go to a 78 main cause it was spitting fuel out of the air filter.  I also put a fmf power core 4 exhaust and big bars.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 7 months later...
On 11/14/2018 at 10:52 AM, agave248 said:

I found a site called sxpatrs. They have big bore kits, performance heads and cams etc.

The site is actually:

https://sxparts.com

Looks like you can get the parts here to do a pretty compete top end/big bore job on the mighty 110 ?

 

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  • 1 year later...

2018 TTR-“128”E
 

I finished the 128cc big bore kit and stage 3 camshaft from sxparts. Stock carb bigger jetting fmf 4.1 stock airbox and she runs damn good just finished the heat cycles. The top end is kinda loud for my taste but the valve clearance on these things are next to nothing. Plug is a little ashy it does need more fuel and air both haven’t decided which route I’m headed with the carb just yet. I did have to make one part to pull the rocker arm sleeves. I found a miscellaneous bolt that fit the threads inside the shaft and welded a longer bolt to that with a good size head. I then slid a inch impact socket over the bolt and used the socket as movable weight along the length of the bolt, After threading into the sleeves of the rocker arm. Aka a slide hammer. The camshaft bearing and retainer were tricky business if you have a good press with the correct shoe to press against the bearing without damaging it, it’s a fairly easy press. You’ll see two flat spots on the cam that allow you to press against the inner race of the bearing. That’ll remove both retainer and bearing. If you try to remove by the outer race, the bearing will get damaged. The top of the cam tensioner has a flat head adjustment screw inside and it must be turned and pressed simultaneously when going back together. Everything went smooth I did run break in oil do the heat cycles. It’s only been about week but everything seems squared away. Bike has massive gains 3rd and 4th gear. Top speed has definitely increased. 1st and 2nd got all the torque ever needed in a pitbike. They are kind of short though I’m think of changing up some gearing to lengthen the gears. It’s got all the power you could want out of a pitbike Im stoked the thing rips. And lopes??

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  • 4 months later...
On 1/19/2021 at 9:27 PM, LB-213 said:

2018 TTR-“128”E
 

I finished the 128cc big bore kit and stage 3 camshaft from sxparts. Stock carb bigger jetting fmf 4.1 stock airbox and she runs damn good just finished the heat cycles. The top end is kinda loud for my taste but the valve clearance on these things are next to nothing. Plug is a little ashy it does need more fuel and air both haven’t decided which route I’m headed with the carb just yet. I did have to make one part to pull the rocker arm sleeves. I found a miscellaneous bolt that fit the threads inside the shaft and welded a longer bolt to that with a good size head. I then slid a inch impact socket over the bolt and used the socket as movable weight along the length of the bolt, After threading into the sleeves of the rocker arm. Aka a slide hammer. The camshaft bearing and retainer were tricky business if you have a good press with the correct shoe to press against the bearing without damaging it, it’s a fairly easy press. You’ll see two flat spots on the cam that allow you to press against the inner race of the bearing. That’ll remove both retainer and bearing. If you try to remove by the outer race, the bearing will get damaged. The top of the cam tensioner has a flat head adjustment screw inside and it must be turned and pressed simultaneously when going back together. Everything went smooth I did run break in oil do the heat cycles. It’s only been about week but everything seems squared away. Bike has massive gains 3rd and 4th gear. Top speed has definitely increased. 1st and 2nd got all the torque ever needed in a pitbike. They are kind of short though I’m think of changing up some gearing to lengthen the gears. It’s got all the power you could want out of a pitbike Im stoked the thing rips. And lopes??

LB-213, are you still happy with the performance parts from sxparts? I just installed the performance head and stage 1 cam shaft after having to grind down the rocker arms to get them to fit and provide enough clearance between the arm and the valve spring cap.

The bike ran like crap and the top end sounded terrible. This kit seems to be engineered terribly with very poor execution. 

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