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Big Bore order checklist?

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going to order a kit, as I've read the CW kit is the better way to go. what I was hoping for was some input on what else I need to order...

currently I'm running an 03 drz-400s, I have put a FCR39 mx from eddie and a MRD SSW pipe on it, with a twin air air filter and 3X3 mod. otherwise stock engine wise. I plan on picking up a set of cams from a guy local here....

so! what else? I figure I need coolant, oil, and um.... what else? lol.

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going to order a kit, as I've read the CW kit is the better way to go. what I was hoping for was some input on what else I need to order...

currently I'm running an 03 drz-400s, I have put a FCR39 mx from eddie and a MRD SSW pipe on it, with a twin air air filter and 3X3 mod. otherwise stock engine wise. I plan on picking up a set of cams from a guy local here....

so! what else? I figure I need coolant, oil, and um.... what else? lol.

Please read though the How to article, while you may have the knowledge to install it without, it may trip a thought as to something you’re missing.

DRZ Big Bore Install

Erik Marquez

Published by E.Marquez

02-12-2011

So you have a CW BB KIT on hand.

FCR39 installed now

MRD Installed now.

Add to that..

The obvious;

4 qt oil, two oil filters (post build oil change and the replacement oil and filter for the 1st full oil change interval)

Coolant.

Then add:

Jetting for the new BB

Manual cam chain tension

Time and a few ml of loctite, Medium & High strength thread locker, for the stator, starter gear, primary nut, counter balancer nut, and counter shaft nut reliability fixes.

And though not directly engine related, the Free Power MOD, so your new BB gets full starting power possible is a good idea..

Having the head gone though and new valves, springs, cotters and seals installed, is always a good idea when going for a new top end, more so if it has a few years or a lot of hours on the engine now… Even more important if adding aftermarket cams later..

I believe in this step enough to have turned done more than one job, which would have been easy money, but not a complete job in my opinion. And so I passed, as I did not want my name on a build that had an above average possibility of failure… One of those jobs I did 4 months later….when I installed a new engine after the fresh installed BB had a intake valve come apart and destroy the engine crank up.

To each his own, there may not be any wrong answers, but there sure are better choices.

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I've completely rebuilt 2 jetski engines from top to bottom, so I have been through engines before. never a fourstroke though.... only experience in that department was putting a cam in my raptor 700 fourwheeler and adjusting valves in it. I'm very mechanically inclined though, and should have no issues.

the bike has about 9500 miles on it. what is the cost of the head work you guys are suggesting? is Eddie an affordable option, or is my local suzuki delearship trustworthy with this task as well? honestly I don't usually trust dealerships with that sort of work.

just so you know the bike is running great right now, I'm only doing this for the added power. the bike is not blown up :busted:

also curious: the CW kit is advertised as 11.3:1 compression and the JE kit is advertised as 12:1. is that due to a different piston being used? does this compression boost result in more power with the JE kit?

Edited by Davenjw

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I've completely rebuilt 2 jetski engines from top to bottom, so I have been through engines before. never a fourstroke though.... only experience in that department was putting a cam in my raptor 700 fourwheeler and adjusting valves in it. I'm very mechanically inclined though, and should have no issues.

the bike has about 9500 miles on it. what is the cost of the head work you guys are suggesting? is Eddie an affordable option, or is my local suzuki delearship trustworthy with this task as well? honestly I don't usually trust dealerships with that sort of work.

just so you know the bike is running great right now, I'm only doing this for the added power. the bike is not blown up :busted:

also curious: the CW kit is advertised as 11.3:1 compression and the JE kit is advertised as 12:1. is that due to a different piston being used? does this compression boost result in more power with the JE kit?

When the $22 option exists to send a head to Eddie, I can think of no other shop, dealer or operation I would even consider sending DRZ head to. Call him or write, tell him what you’re looking from Fresh OEM to wild. Might even have a good deal on some cams for you .

The difference your seeing in those Ads is nonsense or just one quoting the single ply base gasket (higher CR) or a three ply base gasket (lower CR)

Most every BB kit I have seen comes with a 3 ply gasket, if you want the higher CR, drill out the rivet, and use just the top or bottom layer, toss the center non sealing layer, and keep the third for a spare.

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i dont trust dealerships ... period

Me either. Had a buddy take the lower end of his RM250 to a "reputable" dealer who later called to tell him his cases were junk. The bearings weren't that loose and it ran great, more of a preventative maintenance thing. He said to get the stuff together and he'd come get it. When he got them it was pretty obvious they tried to press the bearings in crooked. They wouldn't do a thing for him.

I would send it out to Eddie. When you do something sooooo many times the chances of you making a mistake are much less, not to mention your equipment setups and everything are correct for that particular situation. And the crew at Epic is great to deal with!

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Also dont forget that you have to change the oil as soon as it is run in , 20 mile or so of vigorous riding . So you will need more oil and a change of filter . I found out while doing mine , that the cam caps need a inhex socket so you can retorque them , but other than that , no special tools were required , greg

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I got a qoute from eddie and his prices are VERY good. theres no way a dealership would come close to his labor cost, and that comes with his awesome experience. now I asked eddie this too, but I'm curious what you guys say:

I'm not going to go 479. ever.

so is it worth going to oversize valves?

is an OEM style recondition a good choice? or should I request aftermarket valves? do I want heavy duty springs?

porting was $225. is that worth it? I figure it is.

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You have already asked the better persons opinion. And likely laid out more needed info to him then what is here.

For a stock rebuild, with just tuning, an FCR, pipe, air box mod and the like.. New OEM valves, springs, seals and cotters would be fine.

For me, if I was doing anything to the valve train, increasing power output,,, I’d be going with RHC valves, and springs.

Porting, is part of a package deal as far as I’m concerned..for an SM motor build.

41FCR carb, bigger intake RHC valves, stroker Big Bore, MRD or comparable exhaust AND PORTING. Would be a package…Id consider.

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You have already asked the better persons opinion. And likely laid out more needed info to him then what is here.

For a stock rebuild, with just tuning, an FCR, pipe, air box mod and the like.. New OEM valves, springs, seals and cotters would be fine.

For me, if I was doing anything to the valve train, increasing power output,,, I’d be going with RHC valves, and springs.

Porting, is part of a package deal as far as I’m concerned..for an SM motor build.

41FCR carb, bigger intake RHC valves, stroker Big Bore, MRD or comparable exhaust AND PORTING. Would be a package…Id consider.

what other needed info? first post says:

currently have FCR 39mx, MRD SSW, filter/airbox mods, otherwise stock.

I'm adding a set of cams and a 434.

overall just looking for the correct head configuration to compliment this---

1. reworked with OEM...

2. RHC valves and springs

3. should I get it ported while it is in Eddies shop? cost is $225.

4. do you see gains with oversized valves in a 434?

I'm guessing #2 is the right option. but #3 is enticing with it already apart and in his hands.... just wondering if anyone has done it with only a 434.

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what other needed info? 4.

How about how the bike is to be used:

What are the specs on these cams from your local guy?

What kind of a rider are you?

What kind of terrain and conditions do you ride?

What are you looking for from this rebuild?

What did you like / dislike about how the bike performed before you tore into it?

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How about how the bike is to be used:

What are the specs on these cams from your local guy?

What kind of a rider are you?

What kind of terrain and conditions do you ride?

What are you looking for from this rebuild?

What did you like / dislike about how the bike performed before you tore into it?

I will get the cam specs. They are a custom grind...

90% street... 10% gravel roads and dirt trails.

More torque.... a bit more pull.

Really I wanted a winter project and to improve a toy I love. So this psychic evaluation is not really required.... obviously your not understanding my questions and I will just wait and see what eddie says.

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Eddie deals with this stuff every day...I would be asking questions to him directly...and yes ,you will benefit from porting..

I would also get the cams from Eddie , he can do custom grinds if needed and if he thinks it's necessary.... IMO ...hotcams or E cams work well with BB...

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Eddie deals with this stuff every day...I would be asking questions to him directly...and yes ,you will benefit from porting..

I would also get the cams from Eddie , he can do custom grinds if needed and if he thinks it's necessary.... IMO ...hotcams or E cams work well with BB...

If I remember right it is a hot cam EX and he had an E-cam reworked for intake. the guy I'm getting them off of has access to a dyno and has huge amount of runs. these were a these set he considered "perfect" before he went a completely different direction. plus they're a at a good price.... flame all you want, a good price from a trusted source sounds pretty good to me.

I asked about the oversized valves/heavy duty springs, etc. to eddie and he said this:

"that price is with our 1 piece valves,oem springs,seals and cotters.

going to our spring kit adds about $XX to the price. you really dont need them with hotcams.

oversize valves with porting isnt really cost effective at that power level."

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Seems arse about to me....The Hotcams inlet and stock E exhaust cam would have been the better combination...

Hotcams ..IN .358 lift 238 dur EX .358 lift 238

"E"Cams...IN .351 lift 227 dur EX .366 lift 243 dur

"oversize valves with porting isnt really cost effective at that power level."...I know I can't speak for Eddie, but to me this statement would mean that alot of extra $ for a small performance gain when used at big bore level...

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I will get the cam specs. They are a custom grind...

90% street... 10% gravel roads and dirt trails.

More torque.... a bit more pull.

Really I wanted a winter project and to improve a toy I love. So this psychic evaluation is not really required.... obviously your not understanding my questions and I will just wait and see what eddie says.

:busted: Your welcome, I’m not a licensed therapist, but I stayed in a cheap hotel once. ;)

I do understand the question being asked…:busted: But your right I did not understand what you wanted. :lol:

A simple answer without dealing in the variations that are part of the solution.

No harm no foul..Some folks just want an answer and not be part of the process to getting there.

Best of luck with your winter project..hope it works out how you want it. And you get the answer your looking for :bonk:

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:busted: Your welcome, I’m not a licensed therapist, but I stayed in a cheap hotel once. ;)

I do understand the question being asked…:busted: But your right I did not understand what you wanted. :lol:

A simple answer without dealing in the variations that are part of the solution.

No harm no foul..Some folks just want an answer and not be part of the process to getting there.

Best of luck with your winter project..hope it works out how you want it. And you get the answer your looking for :bonk:

sorry for my anoyances earlier, you have been very helpful to me on this forum so I'm certainly not trying to start a war :-P

I sent an email to Eddie earlier, and I think this is what you were asking me. im not sure though lol:

"my idea is that if I have this bike apart now, and have no interest in tearing it back apart soon, I might as well set it up good right now. I will not go to the stroked set up, If I need more I will buy a newer KTM down the road. until then, I'm just trying to get the most out of what I have.

If you were in my situation, having a piped/carbed 400s, 90% street, 10% trail, going to a 434 and a hotcam set up, what would you do??

I like the idea of porting, as long as the port work you do agrees with stock valve size. I've heard that you actually have to weld up the exhaust track and rework it, which is why it surprised me at the low price tag on the port work. (unless it is as simple as "cleaning them up"). all in all I'm looking for a bike that has: reliability (I would like to think after this rebuild I can get 10k-15K highway miles on this bike without taking the head back off), smooth powerband (power from low to top, the more I twist the more it pulls), and fairly cost effective. but isn't that what everyone is looking for? lol."

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