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Just did the clutch actuator adjustment and theres no improvement!!!! PICTURES!!!!

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I am fed up, I did the clutch actuator arm extension/modification and extended it close to 4/16 and it did not help 1 bit. 1 swear I can only pull the clutch in 10 times while sitting on my bike before my forearm says no more. Last week at chapparall motorsports I was amazed at how easy all the clutch pulls were. I am not sure where to go next, this clutch thing is really bothering me. Minutes away from ordering a magura hydraulic clutch:bonk::busted::bonk:

Edited by offthechizzain

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thats very odd, if extra leverage hasnt helped the clutch pull AT ALL, you most likely have a problem in the clutch itself. try dissassembling and looking for any of the parts catching. check for smooth actuation of the pushrod with the pressure plate off. refer to microfiches and make sure all parts are there...

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I took everything apart and inspected it, everything seem to be working smooth, nothing catching on the basket, It would only lead to me assume the original owner put in heavier springs, not sure if its the stock clutch or not.

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The help

IMG_7414.jpg

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clutch adjustment fully engaged

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back view

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clutch with no plates

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basket

IMG_7416.jpg

plates

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IMG_7423.jpg

I can only thing that the clutch springs are the problem, the basket is in good condition I thing

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how do my plates look, are they close to replacement or is there still life left in them. I dont have a caliper measure to check

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Has anyone tried using RM250 springs and plates for their clutch, I did a search and found a few said it helped the clutch pull, not sure if there would be any slipping. I not sure if I should try lighter springs if there is any out there?

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Did you check all the friction points on the cable? The end of the cable that goes into the lever can get dirt in it and bind things up. I use a light lubricant on both cable ends and any other friction points. Lengthening the actuator arm solved my problem. The push rod is in good condition right? Did you remove a couple of the springs to see if it gets better?

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Push rod is perfect condition, I took 2 of the springs out and now it feels great I just know I can't run it like that. Wouldn't the clutch slip. Cables is not binding and just lubed

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If I only have 3 springs in It feel like the 2012 model. Why is it so much harder on the 2008 model. I mean the arm leverage and setup must not be that far off between each model. There is a different part number on the 2011, if you do a oem search for parts, looking back for the RM and RMZ all the clutch springs are the same part numbers for 06-2009. Did they use a different spring rate on the newer models, a softer one?

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If I only have 3 springs in It feel like the 2012 model. Why is it so much harder on the 2008 model. I mean the arm leverage and setup must not be that far off between each model. There is a different part number on the 2011, if you do a oem search for parts, looking back for the RM and RMZ all the clutch springs are the same part numbers for 06-2009. Did they use a different spring rate on the newer models, a softer one?

sorry for not getting back to this earlier, the pics you provided indicate a good looking clutch, plates are not discolored from overheating and the basket has only minor abrasion from the plates. try disconnecting the lines with your clutch out and turn your actuating lever by hand to see if its not binding up on something. out of curiosity try putting your clutch back together WITHOUT the friction or steel plates in it but put the pressure plate and springs on, and check your actuation... another thing, is the initial pull hard? or is it hard throughout the full lever travel?

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I did and there is no binding clutch pull is heavy all the way only gets better with 3 bolts out. What did they do to the 2012 to make it so much easier?

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Today I lubed the cable and polished the basket,hub and push rod. Then I moved the cable for a smoother arch behind number plate and zip tied. Much better than stock,but still not great. 2011 RMZ450 -around 20 hrs on it.

Some things I may do:

1. works connection lever/perch (had it on another bike and definitely smoother)

2.rekluse exp 2.0 (I do ride some woods and hate stalling,so it makes sense)

3.modify/fab new bracket for cable at motor (think this is actually the issue)

4.buy a motion pro cable (supposed to be smoother)

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Today I lubed the cable and polished the basket,hub and push rod. Then I moved the cable for a smoother arch behind number plate and zip tied. Much better than stock,but still not great. 2011 RMZ450 -around 20 hrs on it.

Some things I may do:

1. works connection lever/perch (had it on another bike and definitely smoother)

2.rekluse exp 2.0 (I do ride some woods and hate stalling,so it makes sense)

3.modify/fab new bracket for cable at motor (think this is actually the issue)

4.buy a motion pro cable (supposed to be smoother)

That's gonna make the pull about twice as hard. I'd recommend the Z-Start Pro or Core EXP...

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Yes- the EXP 2 did make the pull a little harder on my KTM. Reason I considered the EXP 2.0 is that I wouldn't mind the stiff pull if I used it less. On my RMZ-I like the manual clutch,but sometimes on right hand turns I stall on tight turns. Rerouting the cable seems to have stopped that. I most likely will get the WC setup and a new cable. My only other complaint is I cannot get the rear brake lever low enough.I have to always take my foot off the peg to catch the rear brake and its annoying.

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Just read in the RMX section that RMZ250 cable is supposed to fit and give lighter pull.

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before i had the recluse, i was running a magura and it was great.

the 2006 rm250 springs are the same as the 450 ones i think? sounds like the cable isnt routed right.

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I was not happy with the clutch pull on my '07. I put on an MSR pro raptor clutch lever assembly, and it did make the pull much lighter. I was going to do the actuator arm modification as well, but I think I will be happy with the pull the way it is now.

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