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Possible kickstart install problem

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We installed a couple kickstart kits yesterday following mr-cobs pictures and directions. Everything went well, no left over parts or things installed backwards, however his clutch lever has a lot of free play in it. We haven't started the bike yet, but the clutch does engage/disengage OK.

The bike hasn't been ran in a while and it was just in the shop having the throttle cables replaced . Also when we drained the oil we discovered that the petcockhas been leaking and the engine was mostly full of gas ....

is there anything that could have dropped out of the clutch lever rod linkage? I hate to fire it up if it might be something more than just a needed cable adjustment.

thanks for the help!

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Shudder springs back in? In correctly?

attachment.php?attachmentid=8124&d=1213621917

Clutch service and inspection

Erik Marquez

Published by E.Marquez

06-15-2008

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=657599

Item # 19 in the correct place?

attachment.php?attachmentid=11482&stc=1&d=1252852344

Clutch lever arm on the splined shaft correctly ?

How is the clutch itself activated?

Erik Marquez

Published by E.Marquez

09-13-2009

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When I did mine I got #21 on the wrong spline and the clutch was all sorts of loose. Follow Eriks post above, he knows his stuff!

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I'm pretty certain parts 19 & 21 are perfectly ok.

Now the shudder springs ! That I'm not so sure about. The angled one (#2) is definitely in correctly, but I don't remember the flat one for certain. Is it possible that spring/ring #1 is also angled and might have been flush up against #2 ?

We might have to pop the clutches out of both bikes and make sure we didn't double up on one and forget ring #1 on the other.

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Is it possible that spring/ring #1 is also angled and might have been flush up against #2 ?

Nope, not the same,, the shudder springs are just like the picture, and is flat, the other cupped..

And of course that first clutch driven plate has a larger inside diameter to go over the springs.

If your using an aftermarket fiber driven plate set, the first plate is not always used with the shudder springs (all the same ID)

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The clutch plates went back on exactly as they came off. We'll double check the shudder springs & make sure we didn't double up on one bike, but I suspect it was just that the cable was 'un-adjusted' prior to our tinkering. My dad had taken the bike into a shop since it was last run to have the throttle cables lubed and the carb cleaned (they probably took the clutch cable loose as well).

Thanks again for the help !

Next up, sorting out the leaking petcock and the (likely) ill-seating carb float needle so it stops filling up with gas.

Any recommendations on whether it's better to repair the petcock or replace it with manual one ?

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The clutch plates went back on exactly as they came off. We'll double check the shudder springs & make sure we didn't double up on one bike, but I suspect it was just that the cable was 'un-adjusted' prior to our tinkering. My dad had taken the bike into a shop since it was last run to have the throttle cables lubed and the carb cleaned (they probably took the clutch cable loose as well).

Thanks again for the help !

Next up, sorting out the leaking petcock and the (likely) ill-seating carb float needle so it stops filling up with gas.

Any recommendations on whether it's better to repair the petcock or replace it with manual one ?

The OEM style vacuum petcock works very well, until it stops working. Years to tens of years.

If you like the automatic shut off features of the OEM one, then repair or replace it.

Personally, I choose to use a manual one. I know fuel is not going to flow when I turn it off, and truing it off is a well-learned habit for my son, wife and I, so the choice is simple for me . manual.

I really like the Pingle brand of petcocks and use them when I can. There are cheaper solutions if that is a way you want to go. Ebay, and OEM sourced other bike models.

If the petcock is leaking fuel, the carb float needle and seat will at some point be overcome and piss fuel past a full float bowl.

Both the needle and set PLUS the petcock have to work, to keep that from happening.

Point is.. one will not fix the other.... Check (read replace) the o ring around the needle seat as well, as fuel often passes that seal in an older carb.

Edited by E.Marquez

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