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2011 kx 250f rough on straights

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I need to find out if anybody has some settings that may get me close on this bike.

The rider is 130 lbs and it seems he is having a hard time on rough rutted straights. He tells me the bike is hard to handle thru this stuff.

He is a top 3 b class rider in his area

I had tried to set the sag on the front ( ride height) but I cant sem to let out enough preload to get it right.

rear is at 100mm

I went by some settings for the rebound and compression listed in one of the bike tests and then softend a bit from there, I also tightened the rebound to keep the shock, and fork from kicking back so hard.

I just need some help for the last of this series and I will send his entire suspension for revalve, springs etc.

anybody????

Thanks

Alan

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I would go softer again and retest

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I would say softer springs. At 130lbs., he is under the weight by quite a bit. Try Racetech's spring calculator and see what it says.

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yep,yuo gotta soften that beast up for him,i have the same issue with my two sons.they are 130 pounders,but very fast.i would talk with dave j.his diy stuff works awsome.and he is a very smart(ha,ha)dude.good luck.

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if the guy is 130, go with the .85 fc fork spring, and use half the recommeded preload of the factory setting. run around 100mm of sag on the shock. i've got a guy who's really fast, and won his class at the dodge nationals last month, and that's what we ran. start with 155cc of fluid in the spring side, and 360cc in the valving side. use 10wt in the two, and 5wt in the inner cartridge. 12c 12r on forks should get you started.

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yea I don't think you can overcome what he's experiencing without going to lighter springs

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I'm about 125lbs and I was having a ton of trouble with headshake and rough straights. I had my suspension re-sprung and re-valved by factory Connection and I still have the same problem.

Is he gripping the bike tight enough with his legs? Or does he have a cut seat?

Mine all started after cutting my seat down. I'm going to put my new one on and see if that helps any.

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I'm about 125lbs and I was having a ton of trouble with headshake and rough straights. I had my suspension re-sprung and re-valved by factory Connection and I still have the same problem.

Is he gripping the bike tight enough with his legs? Or does he have a cut seat?

Mine all started after cutting my seat down. I'm going to put my new one on and see if that helps any.

factory connection misses occasionally.

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Everyone does. Suspension is subjective. Any tuner is giving you his interpretation of what they think you need based on what you tell them. It isn't an exact science. There is some trial and error involved. What do the factory teams do all year long- they continually test and try to improve.

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:busted:
Everyone does. Suspension is subjective. Any tuner is giving you his interpretation of what they think you need based on what you tell them. It isn't an exact science. There is some trial and error involved. What do the factory teams do all year long- they continually test and try to improve.

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yep. everyone misses. you just re-do it, and hope to resolve the issue. getting to see someone ride is huge.

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What are the free sag numbers on the rear? Set race sag at 100 and then check free sag. There is a good chance you may have to step down both front and rear.

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yep. everyone misses. you just re-do it, and hope to resolve the issue. getting to see someone ride is huge.

:busted:

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i hear ya. that's why i spent the last three days at the track with my riders. turned clickers, and adjusted sag on two different tracks. it's what i do to make my riders happy.

are you fawkin' kidding? 1000 bucks for the sff revalve. that's too much for a revalve for that set. c'mon; there's only one fork to revalve. i feel for you.

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Hard to "redo" it when you shelled out $1,000 to have it done the first time.

No, it isn't. You call the guy back and say it isn't right and needs some dialing in. Simple. If you spent $1000 on someone who won't stand behind their work, that's your problem.

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Hard to "redo" it when you shelled out $1,000 to have it done the first time.[/QUO
holy ****

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The adjustable preload is an awesome feature (wish all forks had this) but unfortunatly on this bike even with the adjuster backed all the way off there is still to much making it pretty much useless. Take some preload out internally and then you will be able to have some adjustability and be able to use some of those 60 clicks.....:busted:

doc

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